After results shortly.......

 

I was just power washing the bottom of my sailboat, and thought this might really clean up the bottom of my engine in my coupe, but had some reservations about water intrusion. Guess the previos posts suggest otherwise, so I may give it a try. Thanks for the info.

 

I only do it on a cold engine. Spraying a hot motor, to me, will bake on the soap. Plus, I have a thing about spraying metal that is hot with cold water.

 

Looks like as I went out to do the washing the rains came down so I'll be doing this tomorrow of Friday.

 

Right on the bottle of Simple Green "Do not clean wheels, engine..... when hot" That stuff is not as simple as you like to think. Dangerous to eyes and must be used in a well ventilated area.

My own personal experience after using it for years on the fender wells of my 928 is that it ruined the paint and turned it white from red. I no longer use this stuff and if you feel the need for a cleaner stronger than Ivory buy the Griots Garage stuff.

 

FYI...I just plan to use straight water. I might use some soapy water initially (dish soap or the such).

 

I have never had a problem using it diluted with water to a 50/50 or less concentration. I use it mostly in the engine compartments (when warm, not hot - you don't want to hear water sizzle as it hits an exhaust manifold!) but also use it to clean painted, clear coated, and polished alloy wheels on the BMWs, the F-250, and the 951. Those wheels all look new. Because it strips wax, I try to keep from spraying it on paint whenever possible.

 

Don't use dish soap...it is one of the more aggressive cleaners out there...it can ruin plastic and rubber and seals (if they go untreated afterwards). What ever cleaner you use do dilute it as suggested.

 

I can attest that the old engine foam cleaners will degrade the gloss of paint if used repeately.

 

Good to know. Glad I posted this thread! Looks I am going to just go to my straight water method and see how it turns out before I decide if I need any type of "cleaners".

Thanks again for the input!

 

+1 - same here, but I armorall on my rubber parts.

 

I don't clean mine. It's not very dirty at all so what's the point? If I ever sell it I want the buyer to be able to tell the engine is dry and has been for a very long time.

 

No not armorall...unless they changed formula, they use silicates in them that actually dry the rubber out...look shiny when wet, but bad for rubber. Try Aerospace 303 serioulsly.

 

They use silicones emulsions that plasticize the rubber. There's a difference between silicones and silicates.

 

I learned never to Armorall on anything black you eventually don't want to look faded. I have read many places 303 makes good products. Been wanting to try some.