After almost 8 years and 48,000 miles the shocks on my 2000 C4 Cab are getting pretty bad, ride just isn't what it used to be. Recently one of the rear shocks started leaking so now it is time for an upgrade. I had been considering a set of PSS9's for some time now. Until the release of the PSS10's the best prcing I had seen on PSS('s for a C4 was about $1,800 + shipping. Now I can get a set for less than $1,700, delivered. However, the Tirerack has a set of the PSS10's for a C4 for just over $2,300 delivered. So about a $600 difference. the question is, is it worth it to pay the extra for the PSS10's. One more setting, easier to adjust, and a more linear progression on the settings are the major differences.

So are their any opinions out there ( I know there is usually a derth of opinions around here)?

 

I dont think the 10's have a huge advantage over the nine... especially if your gonna set it and forget it. Think of it this way. Your install price will be $400 on the 9 and $1600 hundred on the 10.

 

Why would there be such a difference in installation cost?

 

I think what redridge is saying is that there's virtually no difference between the two parts that warrant the large price difference, therefore, the large price difference paid would end up being labor.

 

If those are the "advantages" I don't see the point. I've had PSS9s for over 2 years. You can adjust them from softer than stock to firmer than is comfortable for most people (I don't mind "full firm" but passengers tend to gripe). Easier to adjust? I don't think PSS9s are difficult. The rears are simple. For the fronts, I'm jacking the car anyway to switch wheels for the track so no big deal. If it's easier to adjust ride height, I'm not sure that’s an advantage since any ride-height change should be accompanied by an alignment. More linear progression? Don't understand that one.

What does one more setting really mean? Is is actually stiffer or softer than the PSS9s or is it "Mine goes to Eleven" marketing fluff?

Some comments: It's fun to play with the damping but to me the most significant change to the car's handling came from the lowered ride height (less nose dive under braking) and the ability to dial in a little more negative camber. On the street I don't like the fronts to be "full firm". If you have to brake hard on a rough surface, stiff front shocks send you into the ABS very quickly.

With a lowered car you must be conscientious. Don't let rear tires "descend" from a curb simultaneously. I smacked the oil pan once. Only a small scratch resulted but I had to swallow my heart down out of my throat.