Coolant expansion tank on an '02+
05-19-2008, 04:44 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
OK tip time.
1) Do it now, get it over with. It's cracked. If you procrastinate you'll end up having to do it at a time when it's not convenient, like the day before your daughter's wedding or something. Do it now and you are in control!
2) Don't drain the coolant using the engine drain plug. What I did was disconnect one of the little hoses which was tee-d off of the main hose on the bottom of the tank. I then drained the tank into a (clean) 2 litre pop bottle, and then poured it all back into the tank when I was done. I didn't filter it, but use our best judgement. No need to drain anymore than just the tank, you'll end up in a long drawn out burping procedure.
3) The MkI DIY is applicable. It is pretty obvious what needs to be done once you get in there, just not obvious *how* to do the job. The key is that the tank slides out of it's mounting bracket sideways and then it drops down, or at least it would drop down if there was space. Sounds easy, but it isn't because the engine is in the way, and the coolant hoses, and the fuel rail, and some unrelated hose clamps, and the chassis of the car, and the top of the engine bay, and I think some A/C hoses, and the hood hinges, and your hands. I'm pretty sure they nstall the tank first at the factory, and then the engine. For sure they would actually.
It will definitely help to scream obscenities at it. If you do that while closing your eyes and just reefing on it, then it will magically pop out without you knowing how it happened. Do be careful not to snag anything important on the way out though...
Look forward to hearing how it goes!
1) Do it now, get it over with. It's cracked. If you procrastinate you'll end up having to do it at a time when it's not convenient, like the day before your daughter's wedding or something. Do it now and you are in control!
2) Don't drain the coolant using the engine drain plug. What I did was disconnect one of the little hoses which was tee-d off of the main hose on the bottom of the tank. I then drained the tank into a (clean) 2 litre pop bottle, and then poured it all back into the tank when I was done. I didn't filter it, but use our best judgement. No need to drain anymore than just the tank, you'll end up in a long drawn out burping procedure.
3) The MkI DIY is applicable. It is pretty obvious what needs to be done once you get in there, just not obvious *how* to do the job. The key is that the tank slides out of it's mounting bracket sideways and then it drops down, or at least it would drop down if there was space. Sounds easy, but it isn't because the engine is in the way, and the coolant hoses, and the fuel rail, and some unrelated hose clamps, and the chassis of the car, and the top of the engine bay, and I think some A/C hoses, and the hood hinges, and your hands. I'm pretty sure they nstall the tank first at the factory, and then the engine. For sure they would actually.
It will definitely help to scream obscenities at it. If you do that while closing your eyes and just reefing on it, then it will magically pop out without you knowing how it happened. Do be careful not to snag anything important on the way out though...
Look forward to hearing how it goes!
05-19-2008, 05:20 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thanks for the nudge Jasper, that advice was the dog's bollocks.
I guess I am just dreading the scraped knuckles (and wrists, it looks TIGHT in there haha).
Thanks for the tip on the drain. The idea of flushing and burping the whole thing was a major inhibition (as was buying an engine stand, which I guess I don't really need), and after reading your response I just smacked myself in the forehead. I'll pour back in with a filter in the funnel if it's nasty.
RE: #3, I guess it's a little hard to visualize the sideways (esp how to clear the temp probe) without the engine dropped, but for your amusement I'll put this m*th*rf**k*r on youtube if I don't wuss out and hire an indy. I'm going to re-read the DIY and see what tools I'm missing tonight.
I guess I am just dreading the scraped knuckles (and wrists, it looks TIGHT in there haha).
Thanks for the tip on the drain. The idea of flushing and burping the whole thing was a major inhibition (as was buying an engine stand, which I guess I don't really need), and after reading your response I just smacked myself in the forehead. I'll pour back in with a filter in the funnel if it's nasty.
RE: #3, I guess it's a little hard to visualize the sideways (esp how to clear the temp probe) without the engine dropped, but for your amusement I'll put this m*th*rf**k*r on youtube if I don't wuss out and hire an indy. I'm going to re-read the DIY and see what tools I'm missing tonight.
05-19-2008, 07:44 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
The first thing you want to do is remove the level probe and put it somewhere safe. If you look at the new tank you will see how it can twist out without damage.
Don't pay an Indy to do it dude. It's really not that bad (hhhmphh) .
Don't pay an Indy to do it dude. It's really not that bad (hhhmphh) .
05-25-2008, 01:41 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
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02 is very very different....I had to laugh at the DIY instructions because there was no easy way to do it in my 02.
The motor mounts had to be disconnected and the motor lowered, the fuel line needed to be disconnected.
I disconnected one of the coolant lines to get clearance -- it's a large rubber hose with a wacky metal clip and metal fitting on the end of it.
The job requires cursing.
The motor mounts had to be disconnected and the motor lowered, the fuel line needed to be disconnected.
I disconnected one of the coolant lines to get clearance -- it's a large rubber hose with a wacky metal clip and metal fitting on the end of it.
The job requires cursing.
05-25-2008, 05:06 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
02 is very very different....I had to laugh at the DIY instructions because there was no easy way to do it in my 02.
The motor mounts had to be disconnected and the motor lowered, the fuel line needed to be disconnected.
I disconnected one of the coolant lines to get clearance -- it's a large rubber hose with a wacky metal clip and metal fitting on the end of it.
The job requires cursing.
The motor mounts had to be disconnected and the motor lowered, the fuel line needed to be disconnected.
I disconnected one of the coolant lines to get clearance -- it's a large rubber hose with a wacky metal clip and metal fitting on the end of it.
The job requires cursing.
I should also mention - my indy lent me a tool to compres the metal clips. In hindsight not having that tool would have added soem time and language to the process.
Seems to be one constant throughout these posts though. It's a sure fire opportunity to cleanse one's body of foul language.
11-24-2011, 03:39 AM
#21
1st Gear
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2002 996 C2 65k mile, coolant tank replacement
1) Use method of your choice to remove coolant below the coolant tank.
2) Remove air cleaner, air pump.
3) Lower engine (really not that bad) basically put piece of wood on jack. jack point the small 2 rectangle shape behind the oil pan, jack up slightly to put load on the jack. (lift the car suspension up 1" or less NOT the car tires stay on ground)
Unbolt the two 18mm engine mount bolt. Make sure the jack is solid, you can stack something on the both sides under the oil pan (old phone books, wood ..) just in case your jack gives out.
IMPORTANT: Unstrap rubber holder to power steering fluid hose top right engine compartment get pull down when engine gets lowered.
Slowly lower, make sure the catalytic wires on the right aren't being pulled, the driver side wires aren't an issue either is the ac hose is ok. You want to lower it as much as you need but still have the jack holding the engine. I think around least 3 - 4 inches.
This will give you more room to disconnect the coolant hoses.
Be careful the engine will be easy to move side to side.
4) Only need to disconnect the hoses that connect to the tank and the small one on the T couple. You don't need to remove the hose to the aluminum pipe in the back. I used slip joint pliers with closer grip mode, but tool would be easier.
5) Remove coolant level sensor from tank 1/4 turn clockwise towards the front car and pulls out, then disconnect wire put safe place.
6) Now Tank you now should have enough room to slide off the black tank mount, move vent hoses around to give you more room to move around.
Now the trick is to remove black mount there are two 10mm bolts, left is easy once the tank is moved to left, but the one closer looks not possible.
But if you push the tank to left front corner tilt it, this will give you just enough room to put a 1/4 inch drive 10mm socket and universal joint adapter. It's not on too tight should come off easy you just have to be patient.
After black mount remove the coolant tank will be much easier to remove and install. The job is still a pain in the *** but very doable don't need to break black mount and only install with one bolt.
IMPORTANT: I don't think you need to remove the big fuel rail bolt 19mm as other forum post suggest. Very important from the porsche workshop you need to counter force when loosen and tighten. 'Counter' meaning hold 18mm bolt on the bottom of the 19mm the fuel rail is made of softer metal brass if you break or crack this would be bigger and costly problem.
reinstall engine mount jack up the engine and lift up the suspension slightly this will make sure the engine mount set. Now put bolts on and tighten bolts 63ft lbs.
63ft lbs for tightening engine mount bolt
8-10ft lbs for other should be good.
22ft lbs for fuel rail bolt
General Tip: wear long sleave shirt, so arms don't get scraped up, tape loosely hard to reach bolt to socket when mounting.
1) Use method of your choice to remove coolant below the coolant tank.
2) Remove air cleaner, air pump.
3) Lower engine (really not that bad) basically put piece of wood on jack. jack point the small 2 rectangle shape behind the oil pan, jack up slightly to put load on the jack. (lift the car suspension up 1" or less NOT the car tires stay on ground)
Unbolt the two 18mm engine mount bolt. Make sure the jack is solid, you can stack something on the both sides under the oil pan (old phone books, wood ..) just in case your jack gives out.
IMPORTANT: Unstrap rubber holder to power steering fluid hose top right engine compartment get pull down when engine gets lowered.
Slowly lower, make sure the catalytic wires on the right aren't being pulled, the driver side wires aren't an issue either is the ac hose is ok. You want to lower it as much as you need but still have the jack holding the engine. I think around least 3 - 4 inches.
This will give you more room to disconnect the coolant hoses.
Be careful the engine will be easy to move side to side.
4) Only need to disconnect the hoses that connect to the tank and the small one on the T couple. You don't need to remove the hose to the aluminum pipe in the back. I used slip joint pliers with closer grip mode, but tool would be easier.
5) Remove coolant level sensor from tank 1/4 turn clockwise towards the front car and pulls out, then disconnect wire put safe place.
6) Now Tank you now should have enough room to slide off the black tank mount, move vent hoses around to give you more room to move around.
Now the trick is to remove black mount there are two 10mm bolts, left is easy once the tank is moved to left, but the one closer looks not possible.
But if you push the tank to left front corner tilt it, this will give you just enough room to put a 1/4 inch drive 10mm socket and universal joint adapter. It's not on too tight should come off easy you just have to be patient.
After black mount remove the coolant tank will be much easier to remove and install. The job is still a pain in the *** but very doable don't need to break black mount and only install with one bolt.
IMPORTANT: I don't think you need to remove the big fuel rail bolt 19mm as other forum post suggest. Very important from the porsche workshop you need to counter force when loosen and tighten. 'Counter' meaning hold 18mm bolt on the bottom of the 19mm the fuel rail is made of softer metal brass if you break or crack this would be bigger and costly problem.
reinstall engine mount jack up the engine and lift up the suspension slightly this will make sure the engine mount set. Now put bolts on and tighten bolts 63ft lbs.
63ft lbs for tightening engine mount bolt
8-10ft lbs for other should be good.
22ft lbs for fuel rail bolt
General Tip: wear long sleave shirt, so arms don't get scraped up, tape loosely hard to reach bolt to socket when mounting.
01-27-2017, 05:30 PM
#22
Pro
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Can anyone elaborate on this tool? I smelled coolant and saw a noticeable dip in the tank when I got home yesterday. I'll try the cap first, but the tank is pretty yellow, I don't think it'll hold much longer anyway.
02-21-2017, 07:28 PM
#23
4th Gear
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Ok, I just finished this job on my 04 C2. It took...
- about 3 hours,
- lowering the engine until it started to load up the suspension
- removing the bleed cap on the fuel rail
- unhooking any and all of the hoses between the engine and the reservoir, except for the conduit.
Tips:
When removing the fuel rail bleed cap be sure to loosen the fuel fill cap first to reduce system pressure. Use counter-force when loosening the bleed cap, and remove that cap slowly to allow the fuel to slowly seep out. It will stop after about a half cup drains out. Be sure to have something to cover the fitting once the cap is removed; don't want contaminants getting into the fuel system. I used the finger of a nitrile glove with a rubber band to hold it in place.
To facilitate removing the hose factory hose claps, I recommend getting the factory tool. If you're set on avoiding that expense, you'll need a set of small channel locks (1-1/2" opening) and a set of bent needle nose pliers.
When you remove the lower coolant line from the reservoir, have something ready to shove into the tube to prevent coolant from spilling everywhere. I used a discarded nitrile glove because I hadn't thought ahead on this step.
I wasn't able to finesse the old reservoir out. Once I got it rearward (car position) of the black bracket, it took pulling, twisting, and a good bit of muscle to get it out. Getting the new one in was much easier, but both operations require moving the front around as well as the rear.
- about 3 hours,
- lowering the engine until it started to load up the suspension
- removing the bleed cap on the fuel rail
- unhooking any and all of the hoses between the engine and the reservoir, except for the conduit.
Tips:
When removing the fuel rail bleed cap be sure to loosen the fuel fill cap first to reduce system pressure. Use counter-force when loosening the bleed cap, and remove that cap slowly to allow the fuel to slowly seep out. It will stop after about a half cup drains out. Be sure to have something to cover the fitting once the cap is removed; don't want contaminants getting into the fuel system. I used the finger of a nitrile glove with a rubber band to hold it in place.
To facilitate removing the hose factory hose claps, I recommend getting the factory tool. If you're set on avoiding that expense, you'll need a set of small channel locks (1-1/2" opening) and a set of bent needle nose pliers.
When you remove the lower coolant line from the reservoir, have something ready to shove into the tube to prevent coolant from spilling everywhere. I used a discarded nitrile glove because I hadn't thought ahead on this step.
I wasn't able to finesse the old reservoir out. Once I got it rearward (car position) of the black bracket, it took pulling, twisting, and a good bit of muscle to get it out. Getting the new one in was much easier, but both operations require moving the front around as well as the rear.
02-21-2017, 07:53 PM
#24
Advanced
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This is great info as I will be doing mine next week. My drip was dripping down onto my cylinder #1 coil ( which had cracks) causing a misfire. So the car is sitting until the new tank and coil are in. Such valuable info. Thanks everyone.
02-21-2017, 08:21 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
I wasn't able to finesse the old reservoir out. Once I got it rearward (car position) of the black bracket, it took pulling, twisting, and a good bit of muscle to get it out. Getting the new one in was much easier, but both operations require moving the front around as well as the rear.
