Coolant expansion tank on an '02+
05-08-2008, 06:09 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Coolant expansion tank on an '02+
Looks like I need to replace my plastic expansion tank.
Dealer wants $700. I'm usually pretty good at doing easy to moderate DIY stuff, so I checked out the write-up on Renntech. The problem is that the DIY is for a '99, and a search shows that '02's and beyond are more difficult, either because the tank is bigger or the engine is wider, leaving less room to work.
Some people have lowered the engine a few inches to get the job done. Although I've heard that dropping the engine is not that difficult, the idea of that sounds a little over the top.
Can anyone advise me how much harder an '02 tank is to replace? Do I have to necessarily drop the engine? Can I do this DIY without too much frustation? Some people talk about removing a tab from the new tank to make installation easier, but the location of that tab is poorly described. Does tab removal make it possible to change the tank without the engine drop?
Dealer wants $700. I'm usually pretty good at doing easy to moderate DIY stuff, so I checked out the write-up on Renntech. The problem is that the DIY is for a '99, and a search shows that '02's and beyond are more difficult, either because the tank is bigger or the engine is wider, leaving less room to work.
Some people have lowered the engine a few inches to get the job done. Although I've heard that dropping the engine is not that difficult, the idea of that sounds a little over the top.
Can anyone advise me how much harder an '02 tank is to replace? Do I have to necessarily drop the engine? Can I do this DIY without too much frustation? Some people talk about removing a tab from the new tank to make installation easier, but the location of that tab is poorly described. Does tab removal make it possible to change the tank without the engine drop?
05-08-2008, 07:11 PM
#2
Drifting
A coolant reservoir is $77.35 at Sunset Imports (in Oregon).
The engine needs to move only a few inches so it is easily supported with a jack. Maybe add 15 minutes to the whole process.
The engine needs to move only a few inches so it is easily supported with a jack. Maybe add 15 minutes to the whole process.
05-08-2008, 08:18 PM
#3
I've noticed a not drastic but measurable drop in my coolant level. First, how do you know if you need a new reservoir, or maybe just a new cap? If a new reservoir is required I'd like to do it myself. On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being Dagwood Bumpstead and 10 being the guy from Goss's Garage, how much skill is required?
05-08-2008, 08:45 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
I've noticed a not drastic but measurable drop in my coolant level. First, how do you know if you need a new reservoir, or maybe just a new cap? If a new reservoir is required I'd like to do it myself. On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being Dagwood Bumpstead and 10 being the guy from Goss's Garage, how much skill is required?
05-08-2008, 09:58 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice. I didn't find anything here or at Renntech on the procedure to lower the engine the few inches required. Any advice or links?
05-08-2008, 10:00 PM
#7
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05-09-2008, 02:53 AM
#8
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2006
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I'm not a master mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I used the DIY directions and pictures and replaced the coolant tank on my 99 996 in about 2 hours. In my case I found that it had the strange effect of causing abusive language....which went away when the new tank finally wriggled into place. Not a bad DIY really....just have to watch the temp probe on the bottom of the tank...you can break it off if you're not careful....new one is only about $11 and I ordered one just in case....didn't need it. I did have some issues after installing the new one of losing coolant for about ten days...but it turned out that it was just air in the lines which burps out over time. I used turkey pans so that I could retrieve the coolant. Worked great. Some of you may want to put in new coolant, but I heard it's lifetime stuff.
05-09-2008, 03:05 AM
#9
Three Wheelin'
I did this on my 02 just two weeks ago. Took three hours - I in fact did drop the motor...and more than a few inches.
I absolutely *hated* the job, but it wasn't difficult per se. Just very frustrating and it also had the effect of inducing bad language.
As I told my wife...removing the tank was as painful as giving birth.
I'd do it again though...to save $500 to have a stealer do the job.
I absolutely *hated* the job, but it wasn't difficult per se. Just very frustrating and it also had the effect of inducing bad language.
As I told my wife...removing the tank was as painful as giving birth.
I'd do it again though...to save $500 to have a stealer do the job.
05-09-2008, 07:24 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I did this on my 02 just two weeks ago. Took three hours - I in fact did drop the motor...and more than a few inches.
I absolutely *hated* the job, but it wasn't difficult per se. Just very frustrating and it also had the effect of inducing bad language.
As I told my wife...removing the tank was as painful as giving birth.
I'd do it again though...to save $500 to have a stealer do the job.
I absolutely *hated* the job, but it wasn't difficult per se. Just very frustrating and it also had the effect of inducing bad language.
As I told my wife...removing the tank was as painful as giving birth.
I'd do it again though...to save $500 to have a stealer do the job.
05-09-2008, 01:37 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
I've dropped a few air cooled 911 engines in my time. Dead easy.
The job at hand is actually a partial engine drop because you only lower the back of the engine rather than the whole thing.
1) place floor jack with wooden block under engine - tricky bit is to make sure the engine is supported on the strong seam that holds the two halves together rather than on one of the delicate castings that forms part of the coolant system. There are posts about this here on Rennlist - search for "jacking all four wheels" or something similar. There's a good thread with photos.
2) Remove the two nuts that hold the rear engine cross brace onto the chassis mounts.
3) Slowly lower the back half of the engine. In my case I went as low as I could go to the point that the crossbrace was completely clear of the studs and it was still difficult to get the tank out. The advice I was given was to only *loosen* the nuts but leave them threaded on the studs and lower the engine only as far as this would allow. That wasn't low enough for me.
4) On re-assembly - make *damned* sure the cross brace is seated onto the rubber engine mount at each corner. Just jacking the engine up in the middle didn't seatthe brace on the passenger side. I had had to jack at each corner (using a rubber mallet handle as an extender) to get it to eat seat right. I could reach up with my finger and feel for a (lack of) gap. I then torqued the nuts to 65 ftlbs and Robert was my father's brother.
I'll admit it will be daunting if it's your first time, but if you've got the tools, and are mechanically inclined, it's pretty simple.
The job at hand is actually a partial engine drop because you only lower the back of the engine rather than the whole thing.
1) place floor jack with wooden block under engine - tricky bit is to make sure the engine is supported on the strong seam that holds the two halves together rather than on one of the delicate castings that forms part of the coolant system. There are posts about this here on Rennlist - search for "jacking all four wheels" or something similar. There's a good thread with photos.
2) Remove the two nuts that hold the rear engine cross brace onto the chassis mounts.
3) Slowly lower the back half of the engine. In my case I went as low as I could go to the point that the crossbrace was completely clear of the studs and it was still difficult to get the tank out. The advice I was given was to only *loosen* the nuts but leave them threaded on the studs and lower the engine only as far as this would allow. That wasn't low enough for me.
4) On re-assembly - make *damned* sure the cross brace is seated onto the rubber engine mount at each corner. Just jacking the engine up in the middle didn't seatthe brace on the passenger side. I had had to jack at each corner (using a rubber mallet handle as an extender) to get it to eat seat right. I could reach up with my finger and feel for a (lack of) gap. I then torqued the nuts to 65 ftlbs and Robert was my father's brother.
I'll admit it will be daunting if it's your first time, but if you've got the tools, and are mechanically inclined, it's pretty simple.
05-09-2008, 03:46 PM
#13
Three Wheelin'
They say "Job's a good'un" over here a lot.
Generally that have a lot more ways to say stuff here than we do in North America. The language is very entertaining and they are constantly joking or making puns or rhymes.
::::
Here's one:
You'll look **** if you drop the lump in your Porker and then not get it fastened up right afterwards.
Good luck anyway - if you do decide to do the job, buy some earplugs for the kids. Be prepared for 3 of the most painful hours of your life!
05-10-2008, 01:35 AM
#14
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2006
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I read thru all this and had to laugh....in addition to being Porsche afficianados and having that common bond....looks like we have a common denominator in vocabulary under certain circumstances.....
05-19-2008, 04:11 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
Oh I wish I could laugh, I think I'm going to do this myself on my 2002 (I'm not leaking much, but I'm leaking and dealer quoted just north of $600)
I ordered the tank. Two questions for those who have done it:
1. Aside from dropping the engine, is the actual tank removal/replacement any different than the Renntech DIY?
2. Did you filter your original coolant before replacing, or just go straight back out of the turkey pans?
Ok a third, more of a procrastination thing: I've had it six months, driven it very hard, and have only added about 8 oz of distilled water. no drops, no pools, no coolant smell from exhaust, but dealer does confirm it's got a little leak. I didn't drive it for about a month and at that time it did start with a little puff of white smoke, but not since then. Should I bother yet? Is there a benchmark at all for how many ounces of fluid per month/ 1000 miles would get you worried about imminent failure?
I ordered the tank. Two questions for those who have done it:
1. Aside from dropping the engine, is the actual tank removal/replacement any different than the Renntech DIY?
2. Did you filter your original coolant before replacing, or just go straight back out of the turkey pans?
Ok a third, more of a procrastination thing: I've had it six months, driven it very hard, and have only added about 8 oz of distilled water. no drops, no pools, no coolant smell from exhaust, but dealer does confirm it's got a little leak. I didn't drive it for about a month and at that time it did start with a little puff of white smoke, but not since then. Should I bother yet? Is there a benchmark at all for how many ounces of fluid per month/ 1000 miles would get you worried about imminent failure?