Engine Clicking- Oil Starvation
04-26-2008, 08:19 AM
#31
Race Car
I have been reading too much and now I am confused. What weight would better protect from metal to metal tapping?
Long story why but I have a huge amount of various weights of Mobil 1 at home. If there is a better weight that would protect, let me know. I realize that I am opening a huge can of worms here.
Long story why but I have a huge amount of various weights of Mobil 1 at home. If there is a better weight that would protect, let me know. I realize that I am opening a huge can of worms here.
BTW. Make sure that "tapping" you hear is NOT the EGR valve located above the alternator. This valve should be cycling and makes a quiick clicking sound when operating. You can determine if it is this valve causing the noise by disconnecting the electrical cable to it when the tapping occurs.
04-26-2008, 11:40 AM
#32
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Metal to metal tapping is a problem worth looking closer (mechanic) to identify and resolve taking the proper actions.
I would do this to prevent the possibility of it becoming a bigger issue.
Don't reach for the bubble gum
Easssy BruceP...
I would do this to prevent the possibility of it becoming a bigger issue.
Don't reach for the bubble gum
Easssy BruceP...
04-26-2008, 12:13 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
If it is a lifter problem, changing the oil to a different viscosity isn't going to fix it. It may just mask it.
Anyway, this is like a doctor making a diagnosis on the phone. You may get it right, but more often than not you make a horrible mistake. Best is to have someone in the know actually listen to the thing clicking. Sounds like you already have the conditions down as to when the clicking occurs. Drive it on the highway, then take it to the dealer or your service guy. If it doesn't click, take it out again, and again, until the clicking is heard by the service guy. Regardless of how good this forum is and how bad some mechanics can be, there is no substitute for actually hearing that click
Anyway, this is like a doctor making a diagnosis on the phone. You may get it right, but more often than not you make a horrible mistake. Best is to have someone in the know actually listen to the thing clicking. Sounds like you already have the conditions down as to when the clicking occurs. Drive it on the highway, then take it to the dealer or your service guy. If it doesn't click, take it out again, and again, until the clicking is heard by the service guy. Regardless of how good this forum is and how bad some mechanics can be, there is no substitute for actually hearing that click
04-26-2008, 12:44 PM
#34
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PALTING-
Where in Ohio are you? If you are in the Columbus area, what indy do you use? I live between to MAG and Lamboghini Ohio but they are expensive. I have a guy who lives near me rebuilding one of my older engines. He only works on Porsches. He restores older Porsches (his shop is a dream). I think that next time I go over there, I will have him take a listen.
I have had Evans Automotive take a listen to the clicking, unfortunately it wasn't there at the time. They thoroughly inspected the car and said everything was fine- other than a minor RMS issue. I also had MAG take a look, clicking wasn't present then- they also couldn't find any problem.
Where in Ohio are you? If you are in the Columbus area, what indy do you use? I live between to MAG and Lamboghini Ohio but they are expensive. I have a guy who lives near me rebuilding one of my older engines. He only works on Porsches. He restores older Porsches (his shop is a dream). I think that next time I go over there, I will have him take a listen.
I have had Evans Automotive take a listen to the clicking, unfortunately it wasn't there at the time. They thoroughly inspected the car and said everything was fine- other than a minor RMS issue. I also had MAG take a look, clicking wasn't present then- they also couldn't find any problem.
04-26-2008, 01:22 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
I'm in the Canton area and use the certified Porsche techs exclusively. As far as indies, Steinel's is supposed to be very good, but I have no personal experience with them. They're in my area, which is probably 1 1/2 hours from you. Went to Byers Porsche in Columbus last weekend for emergency purchase of brake pads in midst of DE. They appear to be excellent, but are probably expensive too.
Anyway, if you are this worried about that clicking sound, I believe only a certified Porsche tech will be able to reassure you. MAG may be worth the expense for peace of mind and care-free enjoyment of your Porsche. Just keep plugging away until the tech can hear the clicking.
Anyway, if you are this worried about that clicking sound, I believe only a certified Porsche tech will be able to reassure you. MAG may be worth the expense for peace of mind and care-free enjoyment of your Porsche. Just keep plugging away until the tech can hear the clicking.
04-26-2008, 03:52 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
What 1999 said...check the EGR valve. This happened to me about 5 years ago and it does sound like a bad lifter. I chased the lifter noise with a mechanics stethoscope and could not find the noise. Finally found the bad EGR valve was making the noise.
05-07-2008, 10:56 PM
#37
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Here is an update. I have been playing around with my oil to see what would happen to the ticking noise. I wanted to try a few different things to see if anything would change the noise. I did this because Gunk ValveMedic did eliminate the noise. I had a massive amount of various oils in my garage. I needed to do some spring cleaning so I thought that I would play around a bit. The car runs great. Now has 70k miles. Other than small RMS issue, no problems.
First try- Mobil 1 0w40- 5k miles on it. Added Gunk Valve Medic- sound went away. (before I originally put the valve medic in, the oil was topped off, the valve medic put the oil level slightly over the line- this is when the sound went away).
Second try-Removed the Mobil 1 0w40 that contained the valvemedic- I didn't want the Gunk Valve medic in the engine for long. I changed the oil to Castrol Syntec 5w40. Fill oil level up to 1/2. Clicking away like always. Added more oil, accidentally filled slightly above full and ticking went away.
Third-Removed about 1 quart of oil by removing the filter a few times- ticking started again.
Fourth-Drained Syntec 5w40, Filled with Mobil 1 0w40 to 1/3. Ticking like always. Filled up to 3/4 with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50- ticking as aways. Filled to slightly above full- ticking went away.
There were at least two days of driving between all of these changes. I know that it sounds like a complete waste of oil, oh well. I had to clean out my garage. I have not looked into the EGR valve issue. I have been stuck on the valve lifter since the Gunk product helped.
It seems to me that if I had sludge plugging a valve- a thinner oil may help- however it didn't. If I had a worn lifter, it seems that a thicker oil would help- it didn't. The only thing that I can find that takes it away is filling the oil slightly above full. I cannot figure out why this would help.
Of coarse the sensible thing to do would be to take it to my indy. That is too much of a hassle. I would prefer to figure things out myself.
One side note is that when I changed from 0w40 to 5w40, the occasional 1-2 drops of oil that I see on my garage floor has completely gone away.
First try- Mobil 1 0w40- 5k miles on it. Added Gunk Valve Medic- sound went away. (before I originally put the valve medic in, the oil was topped off, the valve medic put the oil level slightly over the line- this is when the sound went away).
Second try-Removed the Mobil 1 0w40 that contained the valvemedic- I didn't want the Gunk Valve medic in the engine for long. I changed the oil to Castrol Syntec 5w40. Fill oil level up to 1/2. Clicking away like always. Added more oil, accidentally filled slightly above full and ticking went away.
Third-Removed about 1 quart of oil by removing the filter a few times- ticking started again.
Fourth-Drained Syntec 5w40, Filled with Mobil 1 0w40 to 1/3. Ticking like always. Filled up to 3/4 with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50- ticking as aways. Filled to slightly above full- ticking went away.
There were at least two days of driving between all of these changes. I know that it sounds like a complete waste of oil, oh well. I had to clean out my garage. I have not looked into the EGR valve issue. I have been stuck on the valve lifter since the Gunk product helped.
It seems to me that if I had sludge plugging a valve- a thinner oil may help- however it didn't. If I had a worn lifter, it seems that a thicker oil would help- it didn't. The only thing that I can find that takes it away is filling the oil slightly above full. I cannot figure out why this would help.
Of coarse the sensible thing to do would be to take it to my indy. That is too much of a hassle. I would prefer to figure things out myself.
One side note is that when I changed from 0w40 to 5w40, the occasional 1-2 drops of oil that I see on my garage floor has completely gone away.
05-08-2008, 12:38 PM
#39
Race Car
The valve is located above the alternator. It is connected to a hose coming from the left sdie of the engine and a hose that goes to the throttlebody. In addition to the hoses, it has an electrical connector attached to it. It is normal, after warmup, for the valve to operate, making a ticking sound. Disconnecting the electical connector will stop the valve operation.
05-20-2008, 05:48 AM
#40
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I came back from the Nurburgring Nordschleife yesterday with my -99 Carrera 2 with 235&295 Toyo R888`s (2006 replace engine with x51 oil pan, Mobil 0W40). On high speed corners like Galgenkopf oil pressure goes down to 2.5 bars. No clicking or any other problems (yet). What do you think about it? I guess this has been discussed earlier but didn`t find any topics.
05-20-2008, 10:51 AM
#43
I'm surprised that everyone is focusing on oil, which I agree could be the problem, but the first thing I would have done is:
Run the car down to less than a quarter tank of gas. Go to a different gas station than you have been filling up at and put 93 in the tank. If you are in one of the states where 93 is not available put in the highest octane possible. My car will tick ever so slightly when I have to put 91 octane in (on the road). That would be the simplest and first step, then I would have started exploring all the oil, sensors etc...
Run the car down to less than a quarter tank of gas. Go to a different gas station than you have been filling up at and put 93 in the tank. If you are in one of the states where 93 is not available put in the highest octane possible. My car will tick ever so slightly when I have to put 91 octane in (on the road). That would be the simplest and first step, then I would have started exploring all the oil, sensors etc...
05-21-2008, 03:09 AM
#44
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Well mayby I would n`t drive modified Carrera if I had afford to buy GT3? And I can`t believe that changing oil to better from Porsche Oem (mobil 1) would increase oil pressure from 2.5 to 4+ bars on high G corners when the pressure is ok on other corners and straights. How much the pressure should be (minimum) on high G corners or how many bars it`s in GT3?
Greetings
Greetings
05-21-2008, 04:34 PM
#45
Well mayby I would n`t drive modified Carrera if I had afford to buy GT3? And I can`t believe that changing oil to better from Porsche Oem (mobil 1) would increase oil pressure from 2.5 to 4+ bars on high G corners when the pressure is ok on other corners and straights. How much the pressure should be (minimum) on high G corners or how many bars it`s in GT3?
Greetings
Greetings
