Power Window Doesn't Work
03-07-2008, 07:27 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK. I've started
Being the el cheapo that I am, I wanted to take the door panel apart to insure that I really needed to replace the regulator. It's looks like I do as the cable is very loose...i.e.floppy.
My question. If I didn't unplug my airbag, can I reconnect the negative terminal w/o issue? I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
So, should I just leave the negative terminal off or reconnect?
My question. If I didn't unplug my airbag, can I reconnect the negative terminal w/o issue? I've disconnected my battery w/o the radio needing to be reprogrammed before, but this time it will be disconnected for over 24 hours before I can get the new regulator and install it.
So, should I just leave the negative terminal off or reconnect?
03-07-2008, 08:41 PM
#17
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Well that creaking noise could just come from the cable that is out of the railing meachanism because I had that same noise on my BMW. It's due to the cable that is dragging behind the door panel hitting the metal frame. I immediately stopped using the window, then opened up the door panel to check. It was only the little broken tab holding the cable in place flush with the rail mechanism. I used the "Zip-Tie" fix to hold the cable tight back to the rail again and now the window goes up and down smoothly like new, no more noise. At first, I thought I had to replace my window regulator too. You should try to check yours out to see if it is just this same issue before bringing the car to the dealer. For sure they will charge you for the whole new regulator+labor. I believe this mechanism is the same or similar on all german cars. Good luck! Cheers,
03-07-2008, 09:20 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes. Do a search "window regulator" and look for the 1st post for a 996 that's not my post (I really need to learn to direct people to a thread).
Anyway, do that, go to the 2nd page and the poster directs you to 2-3 excellent articles on how to remove. I just did it and it took less than an hour. I went to see if I could tighten the cable (which I don't see how you possibly could) and the cable fell in my hand. Good thing I called Hendrick and have a regulator waiting for me in the morning.
Anyway, do that, go to the 2nd page and the poster directs you to 2-3 excellent articles on how to remove. I just did it and it took less than an hour. I went to see if I could tighten the cable (which I don't see how you possibly could) and the cable fell in my hand. Good thing I called Hendrick and have a regulator waiting for me in the morning.
03-09-2008, 04:46 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK Completed The Rerulator Replacement
I'll add my 2 cents worth. The DYI is very thorough. It's easy to follow but not an easy job. All I needed was a allen wrench set, and a phillips head screwdriver. Once I looked at the pic of where the panel clips were, I just gently pried my fingers under the panel and popped the clips out.
I completed it happily, then when I tried to open the door to get out of the car after a test drive, the front window had lodged against the rear window and the door wouldn't open.
The reason? My window had failed in the closed mode, so I couldn't mark where the clamps were attached to the window so the window was misaligned. However, an easy solution was to mark where the label on the windows lined up with the window seal. Once I tore everything back down
, I figured this out.
Anyway, 4 hours later, I now have a happy healthy opening driver's side window.
I think I could now do the job from start to finish in 2-3 hours, but it's physical challanging.
Hope this helps someone...
I completed it happily, then when I tried to open the door to get out of the car after a test drive, the front window had lodged against the rear window and the door wouldn't open.
The reason? My window had failed in the closed mode, so I couldn't mark where the clamps were attached to the window so the window was misaligned. However, an easy solution was to mark where the label on the windows lined up with the window seal. Once I tore everything back down
, I figured this out.Anyway, 4 hours later, I now have a happy healthy opening driver's side window.
I think I could now do the job from start to finish in 2-3 hours, but it's physical challanging.
Hope this helps someone...
03-09-2008, 04:55 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Correction
Also need 10 mm wrench and 10 mm socket for a couple of hard to reach bolts and 2 flathead screwhead screwdrivers the take air bag tag off...CARE here not to damage leather around it. Read the dyi and all this will make sense.
Happy window operating!!!!
Happy window operating!!!!
