fpb111

or you could do this with a Home Link from most any visor mount unit. But it is a lot more work.

Paul Waterloo

Thanks for posting that, I just bought one for $16.95 on ebay with the wires....

saline

I gave up on trying to get that switch into the horseshoe and ordered a spoiler switch, which I know mounts in the horseshoe. It appears Porsche makes different mounts for these switches. When I removed the window switches in the center console, the mounts for the switch were different from the mounts in the horseshoe. I think that is the reason all the threads that I've seen show the mount in the batwing. I don't want to change my batwing, so I'm going to continue to get this mounted in the horseshoe. I'll spray it black and not connect the LEDs, so I won't have a light, but that's my preference. So, peterp, you might want to consider using an existing switch, with the texture you want, that you know fits where you want to put it.

At the risk of continuing a "necropost" I can post pictures of the differences of the spoiler, when I get it, and targa switch if anyone is interested.

ourkind

Here's another step by step guide to assigning a switch in one of your unused dash buttons to open your electric garage door.

jhbrennan

Pretty good...but did you watch it to the end? It stops before the job is complete.

ourkind

It appears that the video loops back to the start at 22:00 - however up to that point the installation is complete.

Debo18D

Did this one to mine last week. Haven't hooked up the light but I will do that soon. One thing to mention, the range was cut in 8th. I went from 50 yards or so to open the garage door to right in front of it before it gets signal. Not critical and love the slick use of the targa switch, but worth noting.


Cheers,

D.

Southern Man

For the record, I did this mod 5 years ago, using a Targa switch in the center console (don't have heated seats, so used one of the blank spots).

Works great! Ran a line from one of the window switches to provide light at night. I've never changed the battery, and NO problems with signal range. I was concerned about signal degradation, but even with the guts buried in my console, it works as well as it ever did.

peterp

Can you share what type of remote control you were using and was it the same one you had been using before?

I am planning on doing this, but will use a HomeLink module like this one from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEIGE-NEUTRA...4AAOSwjTlZgCll) so I don't have to change batteries or disassemble to reprogram it. I don't know if I want to go through the work if the range is going to be too short as our factory HomeLink in an Audi has a pretty short range already.

Debo18D

I used the previous generation of Genie that I carried over from my old garage door opener when I replaced it with a newer one. Didn't want to get into soldering in my new one as it has several more buttons and the old version just had 1. Made for a really simple install. I am going to move it around a little bit and see if I can't make it better. It might be setting on some foil back there or something.

D.

Giorginetto

I am thinking of doing this nice little mod myself . Assuming that i will put this device at the central console aboeb the PSE switch , is there an easy way to power this control unit as well and remove the battery ? has anyone done this as well ?

5CHN3LL

I used one of the high beam openers. It sucked. I wired a $5 EBay switch to an opener and hid it in the center console. It was better. An opener hanging from the pax visor is best.

Debo18D

Now you talkin' plain crazy.

D.

peterp

A lot of garage remotes use an A23 battery, which is 12v. The A23 looks kind of like a AAA battery cut in half. If your remote has that battery, I would imagine you could safely hardwire it to power (which would be 13.5 volts or so from the car battery). If your remote has a tiny "button type" battery, then it operates at probably something like 3v and you would need a way to step down the voltage from the car power.

Also, I would make sure you have something very solid to solder the power to inside the remote. If the internal remote battery holder has small and/or weak connectors, or tiny power wires inside the remote, then it might not be a good idea wire power to it in case the weak connectors break and you end up with a short. The HomeLink units have pretty solid wires to connect power to (you still have to disassemble the button side of the HomeLink to connect the Porsche switch).