UFO007

OK, so if anybody has been following my saga then you will know that I recently purchased a 2001 C4 with 75K miles on it. The engine blew after a month or so of ownership and I had it replaced over Christmas with a re-manufactured engine. Everything should be peachy then? Not exactly.... The 996 is sat in my garage right now, and has been sat there, undriven, for over a week. I just have no interest in driving it. The car has some issues that bug me so much I refuse to drive it.

Firstly, it squeaks. I bought some Wurf lube and sprayed the crap out of the A arm bushings. Did nothing. Can I just replace the A arm bushings or do I need to replace the whole arm? It is so loud it's embarrassing to drive.

Secondly, it's too low. Car came with X73 suspension and I cannot correctly set the camber at any corner to within spec because there just isn't enough play. The bump steer at high speeds is both terrifying and dangerous. Plus, my headlights don't work worth a **** (too low). It's mainly the bump steer that concerns me as the car just floats along with me as a passenger rather than a driver.

Thirdly, am I not adjusting the headlights correctly? When I turn the tool the whole assembly angles up and the beam barely moves, then the lights go out. WTF?

The car has many other issues, but these are my primary concerns. I'm quite possibly the most **** car owner ever so every little niggly thing will get to me. But, basically, I need to sort out the above issues for the least amount of money possible. I hate to admit that I need to do this on a bargain basement budget but the new engine's raped the car toy fund dry. Suggestions?

Chaos

Find a good independent shop and go over the car with them. My 02 cab has had some issues as do all porsches but nothing a good mechanic cannot sort out.
Good Luck

UCrazyKid

OK, sorry to hear about your troubles. Glad to hear you got the engine squared away.
- A-arm bushings, don't know, guess is you would have to replace the whole a-arm OR look for an aftermarket bushing solution

- what specs are you using for the x73 kit? I have the x74 (for two wheel drive cars) on my car and it aligned perfectly. Make sure you are using x73 specs (I will post below) rather than stock specs. I have not noticed any bumpsteer issues with my x74 kit. Perhaps your springs were cut down?

- Headlights: are they halogen or HID type? The HID do self leveling. As far as I know there is not an external adjustment. The tool you are using sounds like the one used to remove the headlight, that would cause it to move a little before going out (un-plugged). Have the bulbs been modified(HID)? The higher temp HID bulbs 8000K and above will reduce visibility. Stick to 4300K (stock) or nothing over 6000K.

I don't think the x73 is going to put you so low that it is causing the headlight issues you are describing. My x74 didn't cause any problems.

Do you know the full history of the car? Mods done to it?

Good luck.

UCrazyKid

See chart below for camber (alignment) specs for x73/x74:

UFO007

I'm using the specs off the chart you posted . The camber setting is an eliptical type bolt that is at its extreme and the camber is still too much. I have no idea if the springs are stock length or cut down and I also have no clue if they were swapped for different spring rates.

I have the Litronic lights that do the self levelling. I could have sworn the manual said I could adjust them with that tool but what you are saying makes sense. I also have no clue what bulbs are in there.

All I know about the car is this: it has X73 suspension, a new engine, SSK, cat-back exhaust (name escapes me), it squeaks, and I got ripped off.

Here's a pic that sort of show just how low the car is:

ArneeA

If your camber is too much and cannot be adjusted and something is squeaking from the A-arm, could the vehicle have been in an accident that bent one or more of the suspension components?

Is the toe link bent at all or...?

Doug Donsbach

The tool you're using on the headlights is supposed to be used to remove the assembly, not adjust the beam horizontal and vertical position. Refer to the owner's manual for the correct adjustment locations (which don't use the removal tool but instead a hex key), but if the car came with Litronic lights you really need to use the factory tester to get the lights correctly adjusted because they're self-leveling.

UFO007

I am 99% certain the car hasn't been wrecked and there are no apparent anomalies with the suspension components. Well, other than the custom made sway bar end links:

pl

for the first question, it could be the lower control arm bushing, but u need to replace the whole lower control arm.
search the forum, it has been covered before.

ArneeA

that droplink is questionable!

Chads996

Big time. I don't know where you got your PPI done, but damn. More and more issues keep coming up on this 996.

I'm truly sorry man.

C.

Rolla

+1
That scares the hell out of me.

1980-930

WTF???? - that is horrible... UFO - call Michael Caulley at European Auto Techniks - his number and address are on the LSRPCA site: http://www.lsrpca.com/P-Naut/advertisers%20page.htm - he is the only one I will take my 930 and 996 to.

4-large

I have no problem with the drop link, as long as both sides are the same, It was cut and welded with a sleeve. It would of been better to make it adjustable if you have to weld. IMHO

But what I do see as on issue is why does the axle have wear on it???
I can shoot you a pick of my set up no wear.

The bushings on the anti role bar (sway Bar) can cause squeaking as well, If the car Squeaks with you pushing on the fender, disconnect the sway bar and push and see if it stops.

Jerry

UFO007

You know, as stupid as it sounds, I've just been assuming it's the A arm bushing and have not tried to isolate it. I'll disconnect the sway bar and see what happens this weekend. I'm really not sure where the wear on the axle came from, but the fact it is covered in surface rust at least showed that whatever was rubbing previously isn't rubbing anymore .