4-large

Yes, but the ability to adjust the height is limited by the space between the axle and the lower arm
The top point can not move, it is mounted on the shock tower.
jerry

Lets see a pic. with your wheel off

UFO007

You are correct. I am an idiot. I didn't even think about that. I'll take some more detailed pics this weekend when I pull the wheels and undo the sway bar (which is about the only thing I haven't greased thus far).

ZX9RCAM

If you are located near 1960 & Cutten road you should contact the
mechanic I use for my Porsche....

His name is John & phone number is 281-537-5151

Tell him Cam sent ya......

UFO007

I'm poor . Need to resolve as much of this by myself as possible.


I also forgot another issue: ABS. If I hit a bump, of any size, when braking the ABS kicks in. Not sure if it's due to the limited suspension travel (unlikely I'm guessing) or not.

gota911

On a few occasions, I have gotten a little ABS "chatter" (ABS engaging) when braking on a very uneven surface, such as a stamped concrete "cobble stone" design on a driveway entrance at a business where I used to work. I don't think that your situation is unusual, unless the bumps are very small and the ABS kicks in quite often.

BruceP

That's not unusual where a suspension is 'stiff' because it's been modified. When a suspension is lowered properly, damping has to change because there's less travel to work with, making it (assuming it's not just wrong) better suited to smooth roads. A good bump actually causes the wheel to unweight slightly. Rotation slows for a split second and the sensors think the wheel is sliding... ABS kicks in.

Dunno if I explained that very well, but the point is that it's probably not broke.

DJ23

UFO, I feel for you. It's a shame that there doesn't appear to be any warranty from the previous owner. You have only had this car running for approximately 2 months. I would contact the previous owner or dealership and bring this to their attention. I'm not sure what legal options you have, but if finances are an issue and you want this car tuned to where a 996 should be at 76,000 miles then that is an options that can not be overlooked. My last question, is who did your PPI? That company is culpable as well for not disclosing the obvious issues that you have had with the suspension and bushings. Good luck. You deserve better than this.

Jay

UFO007

You did a fine job of explaining it sir . It's kinda what I was thinking but was unsure if I was on the right path.

I had a local mechanic look over the car. He's a friend.... I never knew Porsche dealerships did PPIs and I didn't become active here until after I bought the car. Partly my own fault really. The seller won't talk to me anymore as he considers me 'unreasonable.' I bought the car off of eBay and it took over a week to get here, then I didn;t drive it for 2 weeks or so, and it blew up (not literally of course) shortly after. Ebay have a 30 day policy after auction ends; the car blew on something like day 33. SOL. However, I did leave the seller bad feedback. That will show him!!!! I bet he'll think twice before ripping off the next eBay sucker! I knew the car needed a little bit of work, but the $12.5K hit after purchase means toy funds are light. I'm actually trying to sell the Lancer (something I thought I'd never do) to raise money to make the 996 'right.'

But, you know, it seems all my posts are doom & gloom. Everyone here must think I am the most miserable person on the planet. So, just to prove that I do have a lighter side, I'm going to post some pictures. For some reason, it all feels like water off a duck's back when you're heel/toeing through the downshift while trail braking and hitting that oh so perfect apex....

joes c4 cab

WOW - your story makes me want to vomit. That is a serious bad beat, and it sounds like you are a ways away from making the car right for you.

I know this is slim, but at least you can enjoy the motor worry-free for a while thanks to the warranty.

I put a motor in mine and I remember what you are feeling. Instead of driving it I mostly snarled at it and gave it the bird. It gets better after a while.

UFO007

Haha, that made me laugh out loud. I swear on my word that I have actually stood in my garage and flipped off the 996 while muttering obscenities under my breath. More than once.

hddude

I think there are several million car owners who would argue that anyone who keeps a car that needs a new engine at 75k miles is anything but **** about his cars.

MTB

UFO,
The front drive shaft on my C4S was touching the swaybar when I first intalled the GT3 swaybar and it squeaked when I made turns. The droplink was a bit too short. But you don't want the droplink too long in order to get the best geometry for the swaybar. When the car is on the ground, you want the tail ends of the swaybar to be horizontal to the ground. So, is your car squeak when you turn? Well you don't need to take the swaybar off to find out. You can put a piece of tape on the swaybar and see if it is rubbing the drive shaft. The bushings that hold/secure the swaybar are rubber and they should not cause squeak!
For OEM C2 and C4 droplinks, I believed the different is the lenght. For after market droplinks, since they bolted to the pinch bolt, for C4, C4S or Turbo, TRG uses bended droplink to avoid touching the drive shaft.

Dutchie in NC

UFO,

Have been following this thread and feel bad for you. Unfortunately, I am not smart enough to help out with teh technical stuff, but many others here can. Very happy to see your post with the track pics... they do look great and glad to hear there is a positive side to the story as well.

Good luck!!

UFO007

Argue away, but I can't afford to sell it....

BruceP

I think the poster was congratulating you for your patience, saying you'd be too hard on yourself to call yourself **** about it.