I did today. Left the car for two weeks, prior to which it had been subjected to a lot of short trips... came home to find the battery too weak to turn over the engine. The front trunk latch was, of course, inoperable.

I attached jumper cables and got it started, but the trunk still wouldn't open (jumping it is supposed to resolve this, but...). I'd read about the emergency latch in the wheel well, but didn't relish scraping off the winter stalactites to get at it. On a hunch, I locked the car using the remote, and then unlocked it again. Presto... trunk latch worked.

Just thought I'd share, in case it's helpful to anyone down the road!

 

Bruce, good info. Good to know!

My battery was one its last leg (or cell if you will) and cranking slowly. So I went to Autozone before it died and got a new battery (Duralast 48-DL) for $80. Good to go!

BTW - the Autozone software gives the Duralast 49-DL as the replacement battery, which is incorrect. The 49-DL battery is too long by about 1" and covers up the bolt hole for the hold down clamp. The Duralast 48-DL is the correct battery.

 

Great info to know - this trick might come in handy for some of us in the future. Not that it would ever happen to me!

 

What is the logic from Porsche for restricting trunk access in the case of a dead battery?
Does anyone know if this "logic" is in place in the 99's?
BTW, Thanks, Tim, on the Duralast info. MY CR rates Durolast the best battery for the buck in 2006.

 

You're not supposed to attach jumper cables directly to the battery. There are contacts in the engine compartment designed especially to accept them, and the engine compartment is always accessible.

 

The '99-'01s have manual levers to open, the '02s- up have the electric latches.

 

So does my '00. In fact, the latch is manual, but it's disabled when the car is locked and the alarm is armed. I don't know about 99s, but the trunk latch is as good as electric on a 2000, if there's no juice.

 

I just replaced my BMW with the 49-DL yesterday. It cost $95 with core trade in and they are big batteries... How much was 48-DL?

 

Are you sure? If it is, I dont understand how, it is a cable directly to the latch? How do you pull the lever if the car is armed anyways, the door is closed?

 

did u lock your car when it's in garage?
2 weeks is not that long.

 

Advice please...

My battery is 4 years old and never a problem. Is it a good idea to replace it BEFORE I have to (and while I can drive the car)? From what I've been reading, 4 years is about it for these batteries.

 

100%. The latch only operates with the key off and the door open. It's inoperable when the car is running and the door is shut, but it's definitely not electronically actuated.

 

Agreed. Yes, the car was locked because it's an underground parking lot. But I don't think the battery was that strong to begin with. A fresh one would probably not be a bad investment...

 

I replace batteries every four years on all my vehicles regardless. They don't last forever, especially if the car isn't driven often or for long.

 

If my memory serves, the latch can not be physically pulled with the door closed. What I am confused is you are saying with the engine running or the battery has zero charge, the lever will not open the trunk? So, there is a mechanism that disables the lever? Because I dont remember seeing anything around the latch itself when I pulled the front bumper off?