JimB

Changing camber changes toe so that won't work. Sorry.

roberga

No shims for stock set up. Call Larry @ TRG. the shims are use to get track set up. Your tires will be touching the road on the inside tread and you will go through your tires in <8,000 miles. Where do you live? There are a lot of great shops that will provide the right advice.

karlooz

you could do this but your toe would be off. if you set your alignment/camber with the shims then remove them you will get toe out. exaggerated toe will wear down your insides more than camber will.

10 GT3

I am running GT3 control arms on my car with a ROW M030 suspension and -2.2 camber in front. I can answer all your questions. First, when you look at the cost of GT3 control arms over standard arms; you need to include the cost of the shims. The thicker the shim, the more expensive they are. They get progressively more expensive with thickness. For example, 2 3mm shims cost a lot less than 1 7mm shim. If you have auto-leveling headlights (bi-xenons), you also need a special 1mm shim for the driver's side. This particular shim costs $100-130 (depending on your source). It looks fairly crude as it is just bent metal with a couple welds, but you will pay a premium if you want to retain auto-leveling headlights. Expect a complete set of GT3 controls (inner, outer, nuts and shims) to run about $1K when you are done.

To be at -1.6 camber, you will need about a 7mm shimpack per side. At the camber level I am running today, I am running an 11mm shim pack per side. With this large of a shim pack, my front track has increase 2". If you intend to run over a 5mm shim pack, you need to run the control arms RS style where the left arm is used on the right side and the right arm is used on the left side. The track arms need to be attached to the offset holes on the control arms, otherwise you will experience significant rubbing and your caster will be out of spec. I still get some rubbing with my race wheels and tires on the fender liners near lock. My caster is at 7 degree 45 min with the control arms run RS style.

You also may find a challenge finding all the parts. When I bought mine, no dealer had a complete set. I got 1 inner and outer from 1 dealer, the other inner from a second dealer, the other outer from a third dealer and the special shim for the auto-leveling headlights from a 4th dealer. 1mm shims are easy to find, but you may need to check around to find enough 3mm or 7mm shims. You can't add or remove shims without re-aligning the car. With a 10mm shim pack, you have to turn out each tie rod end about 5 turns to have the wheels directed close to straight.

bk12

Thanks for all the info guys...I figured it wouldn't be so easy, but I had to ask....

JC3D

Ok guys, I got my gt3 control arms in today and I am going to install them this weekend. Any problems or things I should be aware of for this process? And possibly some torque specs?

Ubermensch

It was pretty straightforward once I had all the right parts (control arms, 1mm shim, and auto-leveling shim). Just make sure you have the right size sockets/wrenches as well as as the ball joint removal tool and you're good to go. It was a little tough to work in the arear around the ball joint, but not that big of a deal. Just go slow.

bella1

I put GT3 Lower Control arms on my car and have the old ones if you are interested. They come from a 2001 996 with 57000 miles and appear to be in excellent shape. I went to GT3 control arms to get negative 3.5 camber for my track car.

JC3D

I wish I had asked here before I bought them. My alignment guy says I need about 13mm of shims to achieve the camber I want, and he has aligned many 996's and caymans with these control arms. I guess my next question is. With that many mm in shims, which one goes on what side. Should the offset hole be towards the fron tor the back. And do I use the middle hole or the offset hole?

Ubermensch

Bella, I've already replaced mine, but thanks anyway.

JC3D, I have no idea what you'll get with 13mm of shims. Is that 13mm for each side? Stock is 1mm on each side. You should use the center hole and the offset hole goes towards the rear.

JC3D

13 total for both.

Is there a special tool I need for the ball joint? My mechanic this morning was saying I would need one.

Doug Donsbach

Pictured here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...all+joint+tool

and here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...all+joint+tool

JC3D

Since the nearest napa is at least 45 minutes away during the time of day i would be driving there, I'm picking one up from kragen tonight for 25.99. Thanks guys.