Removed my EVO shift link and much happier
#1
Removed my EVO shift link and much happier
I installed a B&M shifter and EVO shift linkage a year and a half ago. I've always had internmittant issues. I basically had 2 issues that both were directly related to the EVO shift linkage. First the way the EVO unit attaches to the cable. With the stock unit, it has threads to match the cables threads for a secure fit. With the EVO, they use 3 set screws to attach to the cable. To install it, you have to really crank down on set screws to get it to stay on. They have to basically makes some fairly deep holes in the plastic threads or it just slips off. This happened to me the first time when driving the car about 2 weeks after I installed if for the first time. Twice since then, it has slipped off stripping some of the cable threads.
The second issue is with the way the cup is designed. The cup has a narrower opening than the stock linkage. With the lock nut tight, as the cable would occassionally shift, the linkage would start binding up and be hard to shift. The only way I could get it to be eliminated we to leave the lock nut loose. With the nut loose, the shift link would occassionally rotate and rub the housing where I could feel it when I shift.
This past week I felt the EVO shift link start to slip off again. I decided to put the stock link back on. After straighten up the cable threads where they were mashed from the EVO link, I was able to reinstall the stock link. As I drove it and played some with the adjustment, I found it easlily shifts much better. The shifter feels a lot lighter. If feels slightly dampened when you reach the end of the throws, but I actually like the feeling of hitting the stops softer with the stock linkage than the hard feeling with the EVO.
I think that the issues with the EVO linkage could easily be fixed by simply changing the cable attachment end. If they simply made it threaded instead of using set screws with the same thread pitch as the cable end, it would be easier to install, hold onto the cable better, not damage the cable threads and allow it to shift normally on the cable as the cable flexes over time like the stock linkage. This would also eliminate any of the loosening issues with the current set crew mounting. Until this is done there is not way I would ever go away from the stock linkage. Just curious if anyone else had the same issues?
The second issue is with the way the cup is designed. The cup has a narrower opening than the stock linkage. With the lock nut tight, as the cable would occassionally shift, the linkage would start binding up and be hard to shift. The only way I could get it to be eliminated we to leave the lock nut loose. With the nut loose, the shift link would occassionally rotate and rub the housing where I could feel it when I shift.
This past week I felt the EVO shift link start to slip off again. I decided to put the stock link back on. After straighten up the cable threads where they were mashed from the EVO link, I was able to reinstall the stock link. As I drove it and played some with the adjustment, I found it easlily shifts much better. The shifter feels a lot lighter. If feels slightly dampened when you reach the end of the throws, but I actually like the feeling of hitting the stops softer with the stock linkage than the hard feeling with the EVO.
I think that the issues with the EVO linkage could easily be fixed by simply changing the cable attachment end. If they simply made it threaded instead of using set screws with the same thread pitch as the cable end, it would be easier to install, hold onto the cable better, not damage the cable threads and allow it to shift normally on the cable as the cable flexes over time like the stock linkage. This would also eliminate any of the loosening issues with the current set crew mounting. Until this is done there is not way I would ever go away from the stock linkage. Just curious if anyone else had the same issues?
Last edited by 10 GT3; 07-07-2007 at 02:37 PM.
#3
02,
Funny you should bring the issue up. My EVO linkage just arrived yesterday and planning to install it and the short shift kit today. I wondered a bit about the choice of hex screws for attaching the linkage too. I probably will still go ahead but will really try to crank the screws in. I'll let you know if I have issues.
Funny you should bring the issue up. My EVO linkage just arrived yesterday and planning to install it and the short shift kit today. I wondered a bit about the choice of hex screws for attaching the linkage too. I probably will still go ahead but will really try to crank the screws in. I'll let you know if I have issues.
#4
Racer
This is a timely post - I just installed my B&M SSK 2 weeks ago, and had purchased the EVO Shift Linkage. I decided after looking at closely that the set screw attachment was more trouble than it seemed to be worth. The B&M is in and I love it. The EVO is getting returned, unopened.
If there are folks out there that can describe what the EVO shift linkage does in terms of better feel, durability, etc, I'd like to hear about it...
If there are folks out there that can describe what the EVO shift linkage does in terms of better feel, durability, etc, I'd like to hear about it...
#5
Originally Posted by shustermeister
This is a timely post - I just installed my B&M SSK 2 weeks ago, and had purchased the EVO Shift Linkage. I decided after looking at closely that the set screw attachment was more trouble than it seemed to be worth. The B&M is in and I love it. The EVO is getting returned, unopened.
If there are folks out there that can describe what the EVO shift linkage does in terms of better feel, durability, etc, I'd like to hear about it...
If there are folks out there that can describe what the EVO shift linkage does in terms of better feel, durability, etc, I'd like to hear about it...
#7
Went with EVO Linkage
Well, put the SSK in yesterday and was debating whether to proceed with the EVO linkage or just leave the stock linkage in and the decision was made for me. The stock linkage was worn through the rubber on the right side and just barely into the actual ball joint. Looked like it was ultimately doomed for failure so went with the EVO. I cranked the set screws down just behind the shoulder of the linkage to avoid injuring the threads on the shifter cable and used locktite as well for good measure. The SSK is awesome and only time will tell on the linkage.
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#8
Racer
Originally Posted by drive4fun
Well, put the SSK in yesterday and was debating whether to proceed with the EVO linkage or just leave the stock linkage in and the decision was made for me. The stock linkage was worn through the rubber on the right side and just barely into the actual ball joint. Looked like it was ultimately doomed for failure so went with the EVO. I cranked the set screws down just behind the shoulder of the linkage to avoid injuring the threads on the shifter cable and used locktite as well for good measure. The SSK is awesome and only time will tell on the linkage.
#9
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
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A new OEM shift cable connection runs about $14 from Porsche. Just pick up a spare or two. The actual connection on the evo unit is also plastic. I would suggest installing a new stock connection with an OEM SSK.
If you want it stronger, use the Porsche Motorsports cable set, this would be the best and the most expensive option.This is a very sturdy piece that bolts together. The older GT3 Cups and RSRs used it with a stock plastic shifter. I have no idea about the PN but call PMNA or somebody like TRG who race the cup cars.
If you want it stronger, use the Porsche Motorsports cable set, this would be the best and the most expensive option.This is a very sturdy piece that bolts together. The older GT3 Cups and RSRs used it with a stock plastic shifter. I have no idea about the PN but call PMNA or somebody like TRG who race the cup cars.
#11
Drifting
I put the Evo shift link in a local Boxster 3 years ago.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...=0&#entry11426
It comes with 2 set screws, but there is a hole for a third screw. I put in a third set screw. Also put loctite on the threads. Cranked on the set screws as hard as I could without bending my allen wrench.
Never pulled out.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...=0&#entry11426
It comes with 2 set screws, but there is a hole for a third screw. I put in a third set screw. Also put loctite on the threads. Cranked on the set screws as hard as I could without bending my allen wrench.
Never pulled out.