K&N Filter oil spray?
#16
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Here's an observation. I previously had a k and N intake with cone filter on my 99, and after about 4k miles (when the MAF sensor went), the cone filter was totally dirty. I replaced this setup with a plain old vanilla stock intake and k and n panel filter. I pulled it to clean it after the same amount of miles and the flat panel was to my surprise relatively clean and pink, whereas my cone filter after the same amount of time looked a lot like the pic above. My point is that It seems the cone filters that are exposed more to the elements (such as with aftermarket intakes) seem to get a lot dirtier quicker.
#17
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by ScottArizona
Here's an observation. I previously had a k and N intake with cone filter on my 99, and after about 4k miles (when the MAF sensor went), the cone filter was totally dirty. I replaced this setup with a plain old vanilla stock intake and k and n panel filter. I pulled it to clean it after the same amount of miles and the flat panel was to my surprise relatively clean and pink, whereas my cone filter after the same amount of time looked a lot like the pic above. My point is that It seems the cone filters that are exposed more to the elements (such as with aftermarket intakes) seem to get a lot dirtier quicker.
same here... the panel filter is the way to go... and when you clean it and re-oil it make sure you only spray the UNDERSIDE.... let it sit for 40 min and see what spots you have missed and re-spray the non-pink spots... then stand upright with newspaper underneath and let all the excess oil drip off *overnight*... then wipe off excell oil around rubber perimeter and you are good to go... this way you won't get oil on your MAF.
#18
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It depends if you are looking for the best performance or not. A true CAI is the best way to go for HP. I agree with the asessment that conical-type filters definitely get dirty quicker. Since they flow more air, they are going to naturally attract more debris.
The propper cleaning technique is to first use the K&N cleaner. Always spray in the inlet side (outer surface) of the filter only. Completely saturate the surface. Let it soak in for 5 min. Wash with warm (not hot) water from the inside flowing through the outside. Keep washing until the water that goes through the filter is clear. Pick out any left over debris on the surface and let it dry for 10 minutes. Spray an even coat of oil only on the inlet side (outer) surface. Wait 5 minutes and respray any areas that are still white. Wait another 5 minutes, wipe off the excess oil and install. I have used this procedure on K&N filters for at least 10 years and never a problem.
The propper cleaning technique is to first use the K&N cleaner. Always spray in the inlet side (outer surface) of the filter only. Completely saturate the surface. Let it soak in for 5 min. Wash with warm (not hot) water from the inside flowing through the outside. Keep washing until the water that goes through the filter is clear. Pick out any left over debris on the surface and let it dry for 10 minutes. Spray an even coat of oil only on the inlet side (outer) surface. Wait 5 minutes and respray any areas that are still white. Wait another 5 minutes, wipe off the excess oil and install. I have used this procedure on K&N filters for at least 10 years and never a problem.
#19
Drifting
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Clean the KN, however I would not re-oil, If you oil it too much it can mess with you mass air and in turn blows a CEL.I have ran KN on my Porsches for over years now, with no oil and no codes, Just my 2 cents.
#20
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Does anyone no what cold air setup this is? Sorry, I did a search on this. The dam pic diddnt show up
Last edited by 911mike99; 05-29-2010 at 12:03 AM. Reason: no pic
#23
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I do and did. I ran it without oil for a while and blew out the MAF. I have been replacing MAFs every 30K miles with this setup. Then again, I don't bother to clean MAFs when I get PSM and ABS lighting up on the dash.
#25
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I have your same CAI setup. I wasnt sure what setup I had until I did a search and seen your pic. Is this a good CAI?
#26
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I ran into a guy with a '99 the other day.
He was having such problems with his MAF going that his indy told him "just don't drive it over 5000 rpm."
Is there an aftermarket MAF that's not so sensitive to an oiled filter or CAI?
(Any of our sponsors listening, this is such a common problem for VW/Audis too.)
He was having such problems with his MAF going that his indy told him "just don't drive it over 5000 rpm."
Is there an aftermarket MAF that's not so sensitive to an oiled filter or CAI?
(Any of our sponsors listening, this is such a common problem for VW/Audis too.)
#27
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Hit the MAF with some CRC maf cleaner after oiling and a 100mls or so. Ive run K/N filters in all my cars and have never had to replace a MAF.
#28
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Evo's newer filters are dry, no oil and I have a dry flter on my K/n intake. The evo intake did not fit so well in my 2000 cab, so I changed to the k/n and put a dry filter on it with a filter sock made by injen. No issues with it so far.
#29
Race Car
#30
Drifting
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I clean K&Ns with water soluable degreaser and a water rinse, twice. Air dry for an hour or longer. Spray with a thin coat of ATF, let it soak in and wick. Then try to blot out any excess oil or even swing it around a few times covered in paper towels. Sound extreme but it has worked well.
Most important, oily filters trap the dirt, a dirt layer keeps more dirt from entering the filter. Without oil dirt will get thru and the filter is ineffective, too much oil will damage maf. Oiling a wet filter does not work well. GL
Most important, oily filters trap the dirt, a dirt layer keeps more dirt from entering the filter. Without oil dirt will get thru and the filter is ineffective, too much oil will damage maf. Oiling a wet filter does not work well. GL