oh Sh!t
#1
oh ****
Just put my 996 on four axel stands to refurb the wheels and whilst lifting in the center rear of the engine casing as recommended in the rennlist technical forum, the jack pushed a small hole in something and some oil leaked. I know this is serious or terminal for the engine, any idea how big a job this is going to be to put right
#4
WTF, lift by the engine case I lift by the cross member that runs between the engine and transmission.
Anyways, I believe coolant is in there and I believe you could either remove and replace, or have it welded back shut. I dont think that is part of the block but someone else will know for sure.
Anyways, I believe coolant is in there and I believe you could either remove and replace, or have it welded back shut. I dont think that is part of the block but someone else will know for sure.
#5
I did a lot of looking on the list first and the recommendation was dont use the cross member much better to use the bottom of the engine, but reading through I should have used the L shape piece that is clear on the pics, less clear on the car though. Am hoping very much that its isnt a main part but fearing the worst.
#6
I hope that you did not put the jack lifting saddle there to lift the car. That is absolutely not the correct place (it is close however), and is not the place described in any of the discussions on lifting the car by the engine.
The correct place to lift the car is back between the oil sump and where you lifted as shown below. There is an area in the middle of the 2 case halves which is where the saddle goes.
You were close, but this is a good example of why it is important to lift only on the case. Here is the correct lift point.
The correct place to lift the car is back between the oil sump and where you lifted as shown below. There is an area in the middle of the 2 case halves which is where the saddle goes.
You were close, but this is a good example of why it is important to lift only on the case. Here is the correct lift point.
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#8
guys guys...I think he was clear in describing that he MESSED UP...so let's not kick a brother when he is already down. I think what he is asking is for help determining what he might have damaged or how bad the damage really is...
#9
Yes I get that now. Was following your suggestion Orient Express, only problem is I'm obviously crap at following instructions. When I saw the pic I took afterwards that L shape piece was so obvious, just wasnt while I was setting it up. I looked at the car and read the instructions on the list and looked and read and still got it wrong. Hopefuly the pic with that lovely red arrow makes it clear for anyone else who is going to try this.
#13
I agree that JB Weld is like IRON when applied properly. It might make the fix but let it set up for at least a full day (24 Hours). Apply ONLY to a completely clean and dry surface - clean it with a good non-residue brake cleaner and let it dry for a few minutes. Apply an ample amount of JB because looks don't count here and then sit back and watch the paint dry!
DON'T EVER LIFT HERE AGAIN, you should not put any pressure on that area again. It is NOT a load bearing area so if it does seal properly it should hold indefinitely. eric
DON'T EVER LIFT HERE AGAIN, you should not put any pressure on that area again. It is NOT a load bearing area so if it does seal properly it should hold indefinitely. eric
#14
hoges11, I'm sorry that happened to you. I thought things like that only happened to me. I have stripped my engine down to the long block. The part of your engine that you damaged is not part of the block casting (very good news). I removed it from my engine to clean it.
If you are adventurous, you can remove it yourself and have it welded. I crawled under my car and saw that there is a water hose coming out of that casting. I believe that the water pump is attached to the same casting.
I would not JB weld a part of my cooling system. I would either take it off yourself or have a shop take it off and have it welded.
I'm attaching a couple pictures that show the engine out of the car...you can see most of the casting that is damaged on your car. Don't worry...it could have been a lot worse.
PS. I don't mean to be offensive by disagreeing with the JB Weld guys, but I would be furious if I took my car to a shop and they tried to "Liquid weld" anything on my car.
If you are adventurous, you can remove it yourself and have it welded. I crawled under my car and saw that there is a water hose coming out of that casting. I believe that the water pump is attached to the same casting.
I would not JB weld a part of my cooling system. I would either take it off yourself or have a shop take it off and have it welded.
I'm attaching a couple pictures that show the engine out of the car...you can see most of the casting that is damaged on your car. Don't worry...it could have been a lot worse.
PS. I don't mean to be offensive by disagreeing with the JB Weld guys, but I would be furious if I took my car to a shop and they tried to "Liquid weld" anything on my car.
#15
Originally Posted by bernocco930S
I agree that JB Weld is like IRON when applied properly. It might make the fix but let it set up for at least a full day (24 Hours). Apply ONLY to a completely clean and dry surface - clean it with a good non-residue brake cleaner and let it dry for a few minutes. Apply an ample amount of JB because looks don't count here and then sit back and watch the paint dry!
DON'T EVER LIFT HERE AGAIN, you should not put any pressure on that area again. It is NOT a load bearing area so if it does seal properly it should hold indefinitely. eric
DON'T EVER LIFT HERE AGAIN, you should not put any pressure on that area again. It is NOT a load bearing area so if it does seal properly it should hold indefinitely. eric