oh Sh!t
04-15-2007, 08:35 PM
#16
Race Car
Originally Posted by ElTorrente
This'll solve all your problems, make it good as new:
But in this case, instead of TIG welding since it is not structural, JB Weld applied properly will fix it. Plus it is a lot less work and cussin'
04-15-2007, 08:51 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Mfletch
PS. I don't mean to be offensive by disagreeing with the JB Weld guys, but I would be furious if I took my car to a shop and they tried to "Liquid weld" anything on my car.
Why not try the cheap easy way first?? And remember, the fix will not show from the grand stands!!
eric
04-15-2007, 08:53 PM
#19
Drifting
Sorry!
I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels.
It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates.
The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable.
I've done this many times.
I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels.
It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates.
The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable.
I've done this many times.
04-15-2007, 08:57 PM
#21
Originally Posted by nick49
Sorry!
I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels.
It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates.
The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable.
I've done this many times.
I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels.
It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates.
The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable.
I've done this many times.
04-15-2007, 09:05 PM
#23
Originally Posted by bernocco930S
Everything you say can be done after an attempt in which the JB fails. Even the V'ing of the crack which is necessary and will CLEAR OUT THE JB! at the same time.
to see what the crack(s) looks like on the inside. (which is likely the bad part)
04-15-2007, 09:11 PM
#24
Race Car
Originally Posted by nick49
Sorry!
I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels.
It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates.
The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable.
I've done this many times.
I highly recommend you DON'T use JB Weld! I have successfully used a simular product, Loctite Cold Weld to build up areas inside intake ports to change their shape while porting a racing head. When applied correctly, it will withstand the intake port temperatures of a racing motor as well as continous exposure to racing fuels.
It should not be used to do a patch job on the outside of a cracked casting. You will most likely never get it clean enough and oil will keep wicking between the JB Weld and the aluminum rendering a good bond an impossibility. The Patch job will also make welding, which will ultimately be the only fool proof perminate fix, much more difficult as the surface will have to be immaculately clean and free of contaminates.
The casting will most likely have to be removed and cleaned in solvent. For a superior job bake it in the oven at around 300 degrees. This will open the pores and release oil trapped there and keep the weld clean. The cracked area will most likely have to be veed out with a die grinder to give the weld a place to fill. If possible preheat the part before welding and have the welder pack the area surrounding the crack with a heat sink type mud to avoid the too much expansion and help keep the part stable.
I've done this many times.
04-15-2007, 09:43 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Jasper, it can be purchased new or used and replaced. It can probably be welded very inexpensively. I had to have a new aluminum intake manifold welded due to a casting flaw...it cost $20 to have it done right. I'm sure that entire casting is a very expensive part.
04-15-2007, 09:55 PM
#27
Drifting
Originally Posted by Tippy
I knew someone was going to preach against it, funny Nick, when I ported thorough an intake port, I welded it first, then used JB Weld as a sealer for any microscopic holes there may of been. You just used Loctite Cold Weld. Kind of hypocritical, dont you think?
If JB will work permanently in this case, I'll eat my words and will have learned something.
Re the porting, I was making the ports smaller to increase velocity. I used the Cold Weld for filler material as I couldn't weld up the inside of a port. I first drilled many small holes very shallow to give a foot for the Cold Weld. I gave it about 3 thin coats drilling holes every time and made templates to check each port against the others at various depths. This was on a GSXR 750 Superbike and it would run with the 1100s and FZR1000s.
04-15-2007, 10:29 PM
#28
Race Car
Originally Posted by nick49
Just trying to save some potential grief here. I've worked on way too many motors with aluminum castings that have been poorly repaired using silicone, epoxy, sealers and JB Weld. I end up having to clean all that oily, and messy stuff up and remove every trace of it before it can be properly fixed.
If JB will work permanently in this case, I'll eat my words and will have learned something.
Re the porting, I was making the ports smaller to increase velocity. I used the Cold Weld for filler material as I couldn't weld up the inside of a port. I first drilled many small holes very shallow to give a foot for the Cold Weld. I gave it about 3 thin coats drilling holes every time and made templates to check each port against the others at various depths. This was on a GSXR 750 Superbike and it would run with the 1100s and FZR1000s.
If JB will work permanently in this case, I'll eat my words and will have learned something.
Re the porting, I was making the ports smaller to increase velocity. I used the Cold Weld for filler material as I couldn't weld up the inside of a port. I first drilled many small holes very shallow to give a foot for the Cold Weld. I gave it about 3 thin coats drilling holes every time and made templates to check each port against the others at various depths. This was on a GSXR 750 Superbike and it would run with the 1100s and FZR1000s.
He is better off buying a different part but for the time being.....
I cant justify porting a bike head, I would just buy a bigger bike if the gixxer wasnt enough. Like the '02 R1 I had, what a beast.
04-15-2007, 10:51 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Mfletch
Eric, Your 912 is gorgeous. Chuck Jones has a convertible 930s that he took me for a ride in a couple weeks ago..what an incredible car.
eric
04-15-2007, 11:00 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Who in the world wants to ride around in an expensive car hoping that JB weld or any other pookie will stay on so I don't 1. burn the motor up or 2. get stuck in the middle of no where? Sorry guys but I have mixed a lot of JBW for interior parts and have glued motorcycle cases back together with loctite but I have never attempted to hold fluids at pressure in a casting with pookie for a permanent fix. This reasoning sounds insane to me....am I missing something here 
When you go to sell it what will the PPI say? Strange mound of goo on oil or water casting...I picked at it and it gushed. If the PO fixed the car like this I would pass!
When you go to sell it what will the PPI say? Strange mound of goo on oil or water casting...I picked at it and it gushed. If the PO fixed the car like this I would pass!