I'm running 15w50 and...............
#32
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The Porsche store otherwise known as Boardwalk. They did the oil change. BTW, the car runs great, I'm just saying I noticed a difference. I don't feel all that uncomfortable about it since the manual suggests the viscosity anyways. Although, maybe it was changed because of failure data, that would suck for me. I'll still probably remove in the next few thousand miles anyway. I like the free revs from before........................ maybe that will blow my motor...........................
#34
Drifting
Here is what Joel Reiser had to say on the subject in a post on the PCA Club's site. Joel is the PCA's technical editor for the 996 as well as certain other Porsche models and he also works in the business(I believe he owns a racing shop specializing in PCars). I would certainly take his advice over many people on this site.
<<<<"These are basically the same recommendations as before. And, as before, your 15-50 is still perfect for race cars, but still wrong for street cars anywhere but the hottest of climates. The 15-50 is just too darn thick, and the hydraulic lifters won't pressurize when the engine is started & run cold. In many cases, the engines will be down on power, will be low on compression, and will usually make significant if not alarming ticking noises. If that happens, and you know the oil is clean and the level is correct, just drive it real easy til it quiets down, and change the oil if the weather does not get a whole lot hotter really soon. However, if it ticks like crazy, and the oil level is too low, or too dirty, don't drive it at all, just have it corrected first.
So, back to your specific case, I would suggest dropping it down a grade for weight, to the 0-40 or the 5-40, or try one of the other approved brands.
Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 4/16/2003">>>>
<<<<"These are basically the same recommendations as before. And, as before, your 15-50 is still perfect for race cars, but still wrong for street cars anywhere but the hottest of climates. The 15-50 is just too darn thick, and the hydraulic lifters won't pressurize when the engine is started & run cold. In many cases, the engines will be down on power, will be low on compression, and will usually make significant if not alarming ticking noises. If that happens, and you know the oil is clean and the level is correct, just drive it real easy til it quiets down, and change the oil if the weather does not get a whole lot hotter really soon. However, if it ticks like crazy, and the oil level is too low, or too dirty, don't drive it at all, just have it corrected first.
So, back to your specific case, I would suggest dropping it down a grade for weight, to the 0-40 or the 5-40, or try one of the other approved brands.
Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 4/16/2003">>>>
#35
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Originally Posted by bgiere
I surrender again.....
just look at his posting history, from the very beginning, and you'll see why he has been put on my ignore list.
Last edited by karlooz; 08-18-2006 at 03:09 AM.
#36
Three Wheelin'
I think for most of us here who don't track our cars hard the higher weight oil is really not necessary... if your racing and going out to the track every weekend... well that's a different story... the 0W40 or 5W40 would suffice for most people...
#38
Three Wheelin'
http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oi...nst_oils.shtml
if you look at the Castrol 10W60 it is one of the oils that experience viscocity loss in the test above... it's particle size on the metal wear test was also worse than that of the mobil 1 (0W40 and 5W50)
oddly enough though it did generate good hp at max rpm... I'd pass on the castrol because it is not a fully synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Amsoil (this is documented) and Mobil 1 or Amsoil will definitely have longer service intervals.... if your one of those people who change their oil every 5000 miles then it's ok... I wouldn't leave the castrol in their for any longer though...
if you look at the Castrol 10W60 it is one of the oils that experience viscocity loss in the test above... it's particle size on the metal wear test was also worse than that of the mobil 1 (0W40 and 5W50)
oddly enough though it did generate good hp at max rpm... I'd pass on the castrol because it is not a fully synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Amsoil (this is documented) and Mobil 1 or Amsoil will definitely have longer service intervals.... if your one of those people who change their oil every 5000 miles then it's ok... I wouldn't leave the castrol in their for any longer though...
#39
Rennlist Member
Actually the Castrol 10w60 is a very different breed than the Syntec we get here in the US...I believe the 10w60 is a fully synthetic PAO and/or ester base.....it's good...for BMW's, not Porsche....
#40
Drifting
Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
Many dealers are using 5W50 or15W50, especially in the south. You should not have reving problems due to the change in viscosity. Typically, an overfill of oil will cause sluggishness once warmed up. (any oil weight). The 0W40 is simply too thin an oil in warmer climates and increases your chances of valve wear (amoung other things).
If you like to hear you valves at startup, go back to the Mobill Water weight. I would use a minumum of 5W50.
If you like to hear you valves at startup, go back to the Mobill Water weight. I would use a minumum of 5W50.
#41
Rennlist Member
Hey DallasBoats. I was at the Porsche store today to get oil change stuff for my car and discussed the oil. The 15 - 50w they have in the parts department is for the 964 and 993 cars according to them. They are suppose to only be putting the 0-40w in the 996's. I don't know who put it in but this is not their policy as the parts department and shop manager have both told me to use 0-40w. FYI
I am running 0-40w in Dallas heat with no lifter noise?
I am running 0-40w in Dallas heat with no lifter noise?
#43
Burning Brakes
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Hi,
I do not want to hijack this thread nor appear to be an "expert". However I am qualified enough to pass the following comments
1 - A 0w-40 or 5w-40 oil is what is prescribed by Porsche for your car. The 0w-40 viscosity can be used in all temperatures but the 5w-40 viscosity should be only used above -25C. There are very sound reasons for these oil viscosities. Only one SAE50 oil is Listed by Porsche - it is M1 5w-50 which is not available in NA.
A 15w-50 lubricant should not be used except in special track circumstances
The viscosity recommendations are well covered by Porsche Service Bulletins and in their Approved oil List
On that List there are;
17 - 0w-40 viscosity oils listed
81 - 5w-40 viscosity oils listed
1 - 5w-50 viscosity oil listed (M1)
2 - 1999Porsche911 - you have it wrong - see 1) above!
As well, the very reason why you say not to use a 0w-40 oil is but one of the reasons why Porsche Approve, List and recommend that viscosity!
3 - As Brant suggests, you can mix the like versions of M1 to give the ultimate viscosity you want. However for normal use it is possibly an overkill unless regularly tracking the vehicle. M1 0w-40 is a very sophisticated lubricant - probably one of the very best made at any price - I woild not mix anything with it! Delvac 1 5w-40 (or M1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40) is better not mixed with another product either as it has a high ester content and this will be "wasted" in the process
4 - Castrol's RS 10w-60 is an excellent product but too viscous and has not been Approved by Porsche for this reason. It may be suitable in some race/track circumstances where fuel dilution could be an issue. It is regularly available here in OZ and in Europe
I had a hand in developing this wonderful product here in OZ from its introduction in the late 1970s. It was initially a full ester based lubricant with the characteristic "caster bean" odour like Castrol R30 and etc! I used it for many years in a wide variety of engine types - flat, vertical, horizontal vee, aircooled, water cooled, diesel and petrol
5 - GSIRM3 - there are very sound reasons why the valve train is affected by oil viscosity. INA-Schaeffer and other valve train component makers have researched this issue at great length
I could cover this and other viscosity related issues in some depth but it would be boring for many
In short use a lubricant that Porsche Approve and List - do it with great confidence!
I hope this post is seen as contributing to knowledge on lubricants and lubrication
Regards
I do not want to hijack this thread nor appear to be an "expert". However I am qualified enough to pass the following comments
1 - A 0w-40 or 5w-40 oil is what is prescribed by Porsche for your car. The 0w-40 viscosity can be used in all temperatures but the 5w-40 viscosity should be only used above -25C. There are very sound reasons for these oil viscosities. Only one SAE50 oil is Listed by Porsche - it is M1 5w-50 which is not available in NA.
A 15w-50 lubricant should not be used except in special track circumstances
The viscosity recommendations are well covered by Porsche Service Bulletins and in their Approved oil List
On that List there are;
17 - 0w-40 viscosity oils listed
81 - 5w-40 viscosity oils listed
1 - 5w-50 viscosity oil listed (M1)
2 - 1999Porsche911 - you have it wrong - see 1) above!
As well, the very reason why you say not to use a 0w-40 oil is but one of the reasons why Porsche Approve, List and recommend that viscosity!
3 - As Brant suggests, you can mix the like versions of M1 to give the ultimate viscosity you want. However for normal use it is possibly an overkill unless regularly tracking the vehicle. M1 0w-40 is a very sophisticated lubricant - probably one of the very best made at any price - I woild not mix anything with it! Delvac 1 5w-40 (or M1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40) is better not mixed with another product either as it has a high ester content and this will be "wasted" in the process
4 - Castrol's RS 10w-60 is an excellent product but too viscous and has not been Approved by Porsche for this reason. It may be suitable in some race/track circumstances where fuel dilution could be an issue. It is regularly available here in OZ and in Europe
I had a hand in developing this wonderful product here in OZ from its introduction in the late 1970s. It was initially a full ester based lubricant with the characteristic "caster bean" odour like Castrol R30 and etc! I used it for many years in a wide variety of engine types - flat, vertical, horizontal vee, aircooled, water cooled, diesel and petrol
5 - GSIRM3 - there are very sound reasons why the valve train is affected by oil viscosity. INA-Schaeffer and other valve train component makers have researched this issue at great length
I could cover this and other viscosity related issues in some depth but it would be boring for many
In short use a lubricant that Porsche Approve and List - do it with great confidence!
I hope this post is seen as contributing to knowledge on lubricants and lubrication
Regards
#44
Instructor
Doug,
You can pickup Mobil 1 5w-50 at Mercedes dealers in the US; the part number is Q1090134 ($7 per quart, the fill for the SLR). That being the case, is 5w-50 a better choice than 0w-40 or 5-40 for warm climate driving? It it worth a $2 premium per quart for 5w-50? My car burns about half a quart of 0w-40 every 1,000 miles. Wouldn't going to a thicker oil help prevent seepage and burn-off?
For warm climate driving, isn't 0w-40 the same as 5w-40? The first number is for cold temp and the second number is for heat temp, right? Then the only difference for warm weather driving is if you go up to 50, right? If so, then isn't 5w-50 the same as 15w-50 in warm climate driving?
You can pickup Mobil 1 5w-50 at Mercedes dealers in the US; the part number is Q1090134 ($7 per quart, the fill for the SLR). That being the case, is 5w-50 a better choice than 0w-40 or 5-40 for warm climate driving? It it worth a $2 premium per quart for 5w-50? My car burns about half a quart of 0w-40 every 1,000 miles. Wouldn't going to a thicker oil help prevent seepage and burn-off?
For warm climate driving, isn't 0w-40 the same as 5w-40? The first number is for cold temp and the second number is for heat temp, right? Then the only difference for warm weather driving is if you go up to 50, right? If so, then isn't 5w-50 the same as 15w-50 in warm climate driving?
#45
Burning Brakes
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Hello,
Cydog - yes the first designation is essentially the cold start performance of the lubricant. The 5w-50 is not a better choice but simply an option. Delvac 1 5w-40 may be a better choice! The oil's formulation helps prevent seepage and burnoff - some oil top up is good for the oils additive package and allowed for in some engine designs
Actually the M1 5w-50 and the M1 15w-50 are similar at around 100C but between the cold start temp and there is a different story! Stay with a 0w-40 or 5w-40 lubricant unless you intend to track the vehicle regularly
Regards
Doug
Cydog - yes the first designation is essentially the cold start performance of the lubricant. The 5w-50 is not a better choice but simply an option. Delvac 1 5w-40 may be a better choice! The oil's formulation helps prevent seepage and burnoff - some oil top up is good for the oils additive package and allowed for in some engine designs
Actually the M1 5w-50 and the M1 15w-50 are similar at around 100C but between the cold start temp and there is a different story! Stay with a 0w-40 or 5w-40 lubricant unless you intend to track the vehicle regularly
Regards
Doug