Recommendations on rotors and break pads?
#1
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Recommendations on rotors and break pads?
I’m probably a month or two away from replacing my rotors and pads on my stock 2001 C4, and was looking for some advice. My car is a daily driver that will probably not see the track – a little hard driving now and then, but no more than normal. Factory rotors or is this one of the better things to upgrade?
#2
Nordschleife Master
What makes you think you need new rotors? Your rotors should be fine unless you have beat them up pretty bad. Did you measure them with a micrometer or see 3 or more holes connected by cracks? As for rec'd pads and rotors, stick with the OEM stuff. Plenty of dealers sell for well below retail.
#6
Ironman 140.6
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If you are not going to the track, the stock pieces are overkill for anything you are going to put them through on the street.
I agree with the other posters, pull off your wheels and visually inspect your pads and rotors to see if they need to be replaced before you take it in.
Good luck!!
I agree with the other posters, pull off your wheels and visually inspect your pads and rotors to see if they need to be replaced before you take it in.
Good luck!!
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#8
Its a VERY easy DIY project to change pads and rotors (the latter only takes 2 screws to remove once caliper is removed). Besides changing pads and rotors, I would suggest flushing the brakes with something like ATE Super Blue fluid or similar. That too is another easy DIY job. I plan to do all of this, and repaint my calipers, in a couple of weeks once I get all the parts I need. Steve Weiner at Rennsport can get you all you need and his knowledge on these cars is inmeasureable.
#9
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There is a little wobble when I do hard breaking and the shop mentioned they were a bit off last oil change. I’ll have to deal with it eventually, but I’m about 38k on the original rotors so I’m not feeling too bad about replacing them.
I’ve done this sort of thing on all the other cars I’ve owned; so figuring I may just do the work myself. Heck, nothing could be worse than the mess I found with my Jaguar XJS a few years back (grin).
I’ve done this sort of thing on all the other cars I’ve owned; so figuring I may just do the work myself. Heck, nothing could be worse than the mess I found with my Jaguar XJS a few years back (grin).
#10
Chandler!
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Originally Posted by Gus B.
Its a VERY easy DIY project to change pads and rotors (the latter only takes 2 screws to remove once caliper is removed). Besides changing pads and rotors, I would suggest flushing the brakes with something like ATE Super Blue fluid or similar. That too is another easy DIY job. I plan to do all of this, and repaint my calipers, in a couple of weeks once I get all the parts I need. Steve Weiner at Rennsport can get you all you need and his knowledge on these cars is inmeasureable.
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In the past, I've always been able to compress the cylinder with a C-clamp. Should not have to bleed the brake system or replace the fluid unless you break a hose. (that is a mess)
#12
Chandler!
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Originally Posted by heelix
In the past, I've always been able to compress the cylinder with a C-clamp. Should not have to bleed the brake system or replace the fluid unless you break a hose. (that is a mess)
It's been about 20 years since I worked on my own car.
#13
Riad,
I am getting ready to change the rotors on my 996. I will probably do it in August. If you want to get your car out on the highway, you can drive down to DC and we will do both of our cars at the same time. Sounds like a good excuse for a roadtrip to me!
TD
I am getting ready to change the rotors on my 996. I will probably do it in August. If you want to get your car out on the highway, you can drive down to DC and we will do both of our cars at the same time. Sounds like a good excuse for a roadtrip to me!
TD
#14
Chandler!
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Originally Posted by TD in DC
Riad,
I am getting ready to change the rotors on my 996. I will probably do it in August. If you want to get your car out on the highway, you can drive down to DC and we will do both of our cars at the same time. Sounds like a good excuse for a roadtrip to me!
TD
I am getting ready to change the rotors on my 996. I will probably do it in August. If you want to get your car out on the highway, you can drive down to DC and we will do both of our cars at the same time. Sounds like a good excuse for a roadtrip to me!
TD
I'm a few thousand miles away from needing new pads and rotors so let's keep in touch as the date gets closer.
EDIT: Todd, any tracks by you we can take the cars out to test the new brakes?
#15
Sounds great Riad!
BTW, with respect to the thread in general, the Porsche criteria specifies both a minimum thickness and a maximum crack length, which is less than connecting the holes on the rotor. I "could" probably get away with letting my rotors go longer, but the thinner the rotor, the worse the heat dissapation and the quicker your brake fluid can heat up. So . . . . I will be changing mind "slightly" prematurely.
Stock rotors are fine for the street and DEs.
Stock pads are perfect for the street, and I personally like PF97s for the track, but there are a bazillion different opinions on that subject.
Edit: Oh my, riad, you didn't ask me about tracks did you? That's like asking a pusher if he has any crank! of course i do . . .
BTW, with respect to the thread in general, the Porsche criteria specifies both a minimum thickness and a maximum crack length, which is less than connecting the holes on the rotor. I "could" probably get away with letting my rotors go longer, but the thinner the rotor, the worse the heat dissapation and the quicker your brake fluid can heat up. So . . . . I will be changing mind "slightly" prematurely.
Stock rotors are fine for the street and DEs.
Stock pads are perfect for the street, and I personally like PF97s for the track, but there are a bazillion different opinions on that subject.
Edit: Oh my, riad, you didn't ask me about tracks did you? That's like asking a pusher if he has any crank! of course i do . . .