Electronic oil level versus oil diptstick
#1
Nordschleife Master
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Electronic oil level versus oil diptstick
When I took delivery of the C4S, the electonic oil level was at mid-point. Dipstick oil level was at mid-point. After break-in and several DE's, it dropped to the minimum mark. I added maybe half a quart to bring the level to mid-point on both dipstick and electonic level.
Just got the car back from service, oil and filter and assorted "customer requests due to hard driving ". Paid through the nose, too. First thing I do this am, as in every am that I drive the C4S, I check the electonic level. ALL the bars are lit!!!! One bar more than the upper arrow!! Holding my temper, before I give the service GM what for, I check the dipstick. It is precisely at the upper dot, the full mark.
I would believe the dipstick over the electonic level. But, I've heard of 996's catching fire due to oil spilling out of a loose filler cap. Wonder if:
a. I should have the electonic level recalibrated, even though I know the levels appear to be accurate at less than full levels. I hate to have ANY tech fiddle with what was set at the factory unless it is definitely off or broken.
b.Have them drain some of the oil to mid-point to decrease the chances of oil spill and fire. I suppose I could do that, but I believe the drain plug has a "crush" washer seal that would then need to be replaced. I'm a cheap SOB and don't wan't to pay for a .10c part if I don't have to.
Just got the car back from service, oil and filter and assorted "customer requests due to hard driving ". Paid through the nose, too. First thing I do this am, as in every am that I drive the C4S, I check the electonic level. ALL the bars are lit!!!! One bar more than the upper arrow!! Holding my temper, before I give the service GM what for, I check the dipstick. It is precisely at the upper dot, the full mark.
I would believe the dipstick over the electonic level. But, I've heard of 996's catching fire due to oil spilling out of a loose filler cap. Wonder if:
a. I should have the electonic level recalibrated, even though I know the levels appear to be accurate at less than full levels. I hate to have ANY tech fiddle with what was set at the factory unless it is definitely off or broken.
b.Have them drain some of the oil to mid-point to decrease the chances of oil spill and fire. I suppose I could do that, but I believe the drain plug has a "crush" washer seal that would then need to be replaced. I'm a cheap SOB and don't wan't to pay for a .10c part if I don't have to.
#2
Burning Brakes
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I have only had one problem with oil spills. At Road Atlanta earlier this year, I had the oil cap come off during my last run of the day. Oil went everywhere in the engine compartment and the car was smoking like crazy but there was no fire and no permanent damage.
I had just had the oil changed in prep for the DE, so my assumption is the cap was not tightened properly, even though the tech that did the work claimed it was.
Now I simply check that the cap is tight as part of my pre-track inspection procedure. I have never found it loose and have had no further problems with it coming off at the track. I've probably run 12 events since then with no problems.
I have also found that the electronic gage is very sensitive to the attitude of the car. Unless the car is perfectly level, the gage will not read accurately. Even if the oil level is slightly overfull, my experience is that you will quickly burn off the excess at the track and it won't be a problem.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Karl
I had just had the oil changed in prep for the DE, so my assumption is the cap was not tightened properly, even though the tech that did the work claimed it was.
Now I simply check that the cap is tight as part of my pre-track inspection procedure. I have never found it loose and have had no further problems with it coming off at the track. I've probably run 12 events since then with no problems.
I have also found that the electronic gage is very sensitive to the attitude of the car. Unless the car is perfectly level, the gage will not read accurately. Even if the oil level is slightly overfull, my experience is that you will quickly burn off the excess at the track and it won't be a problem.
I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Karl
#3
There's also a big difference when the engine is cold or hot, check it out and you'll see the diference. Dealer told me, this is normal. So when the engine get cold the oil level is right.
#4
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First thing first, do not worry about your current oil level. If the oil level only went half up then it is only half full of oil. I would think in hard driving (such as DE's) you would want full oil, to reduce the possibility of cavitation. I certainly would not bring it back to have oil drained out. If anything... I would now be complaining that they delivered the car with less than the full amount of oil.
As long as the oil level is not above the max. mark you should be alright. I think the halfway mark was something from the older 911's that had a true dry sump system.
As long as the oil level is not above the max. mark you should be alright. I think the halfway mark was something from the older 911's that had a true dry sump system.
#5
Drifting
Why would a DIY guy like yourself trust any dealer's word when it comes to servicing a C4S?
Drain the oil down to where you think it should be immediately, new "crush" washer price notwithstanding!
I have come to understand that there is a possibility that Lexus dealers intentionally overfill the oil in the LS series so as to convenietly "blow" the rear main oil seal.
$1100 bill.
Drain the oil down to where you think it should be immediately, new "crush" washer price notwithstanding!
I have come to understand that there is a possibility that Lexus dealers intentionally overfill the oil in the LS series so as to convenietly "blow" the rear main oil seal.
$1100 bill.
#6
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Palting...the "crush" washer is $.65 plus postage
I found out that if you're not on level ground the electronic measurement is further misleading than the dipstick reading. When I read electronically I always have the one bar beneath the lower line lit, and one line below the top line not lit. Then I check manually and find hot or cold that oil is very close to top of fill line on dipstick.
I also look under the car every day
I found out that if you're not on level ground the electronic measurement is further misleading than the dipstick reading. When I read electronically I always have the one bar beneath the lower line lit, and one line below the top line not lit. Then I check manually and find hot or cold that oil is very close to top of fill line on dipstick.
I also look under the car every day
#7
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help and reassurances, all. Helped settle me down. Will check again this evening after a long drive with the engine hot, giving time for adequate drainage of course.
I realize one bar is not grounds for a congressional appeal. Being **** is one of the terrible things about owning a car like we own, but it is also part of the fun . Maybe I'll stick a straw down the fill pipe and suck on it . Anyone know where I can get a three foot long straw?
I realize one bar is not grounds for a congressional appeal. Being **** is one of the terrible things about owning a car like we own, but it is also part of the fun . Maybe I'll stick a straw down the fill pipe and suck on it . Anyone know where I can get a three foot long straw?
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#8
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Palting:
As for that three foot straw -- here you go... BTW, it really works well.
<a href="http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_2000&L2=L2_2050&SKU=85700" target="_blank">oil extractor</a>
As for that three foot straw -- here you go... BTW, it really works well.
<a href="http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_2000&L2=L2_2050&SKU=85700" target="_blank">oil extractor</a>
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Heh-heh, thanks, Jack and Loren. I actually ovefilled the power steering reservoir one time. I used surgical tubing and a srynge to suck the fluid out. My wife wouldn't let me use the turkey baster .
Checked the oil, hot, 40 minutes parked. All bars are still lit . Dipstick level is precisely at the full mark. I've decided to live with it. Electronic doo-dads be damned. Doing 2 DE days next weekend. That should burn off some oil to below full on both indicators.
Checked the oil, hot, 40 minutes parked. All bars are still lit . Dipstick level is precisely at the full mark. I've decided to live with it. Electronic doo-dads be damned. Doing 2 DE days next weekend. That should burn off some oil to below full on both indicators.
#11
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My car DID catch on fire at a track event. I told the P-car tech at the dealership and he said that he conferred at length with Porsche Tech in ATL. The direction he got was to not fill the car over half full on the gauge if you are going to do DE. The oil, evidently, gets hot, expands, and sqeezes out the cap area when you are pushing 7000 RPM for a while. The .4 to .5 qt pad allows the system to absorb the expansion.
I tried it for two hard days at WGI on monday and tuesday and the car worked as originally advertised. (NO FIRE, no leaks... just performance)
I tried it for two hard days at WGI on monday and tuesday and the car worked as originally advertised. (NO FIRE, no leaks... just performance)
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Hmmmmmm. I don't know whether to believe that explanation or not. There is more than a full quart of space between the current level of oil at full and the bottom of the oil filler neck.
But, I am an **** Porche owner (who isn't ?). I already have the Motive power bleeder, so I guess I'll go with the Topsider. No more scrounging for surgical tubes. If I'm gonna do anything, do it in style!!
But, I am an **** Porche owner (who isn't ?). I already have the Motive power bleeder, so I guess I'll go with the Topsider. No more scrounging for surgical tubes. If I'm gonna do anything, do it in style!!