wet996

I took the plunge (bad joke) and bought a salvaged 996 ('99 C2 cab). The car is in solid structural shape but went for a swim - sort of. I know the owner and talked with the towing company. The care went into a canal - ended up on a 45 degree angle with the passenger side in the water (Florida canal). The towing co. pics show that the dash (radio and above) stayed above water -except for the far right side. I am new to Porsche, I am mechanically capable (common sense and willing to spend the time). I have estimates for repair but would like to save money by doing what I can myself. The next step might be to tweak it a bit, since its "original value" is shot and not in jeopardy. Looking for some good advise (as I am have already seen on this board).

DonW-Cape Cod

Well, wet996, I can't help you with your project, but I can welcome you to Rennlist. I'm sure you'll find satisfactory answers to how you should build up your car. Have fun!

Palting

I can't help but ask, "Who's the submarine commander?". One of the best lines if heard in a movie.

Sorry I can't help. I do welcome you though, and wish you luck <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Waz996

I'd rather be water-skiing!

Wael
996C299

MJones

Passenger side in water, sounds like the computer DME will be toast

RogerJ

Does it run? It not, why not?

glowrider

[quote]Originally posted by RogerJ:
<strong>Does it run? It not, why not?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I'm sure if it doesn't run it's cause it ended up in a canal BTW, I'm new here, hi everybody.

FixedWing

Well, first task will be to find out what is wrong with it. Getting wet per se isn't going to mean it is damaged.

I guess my biggest worry would be that the engine continued to run when it went into the water and it somehow sucked water into the engine. That would cause hydraulic lock in the cylinders and your engine would be toast (pistons, connecting rods, bearing, crankshaft). This is something I’d want to have some clue about before I tried to start it.

But otherwise, I think it is just a matter of methodically going through the car and finding out what is broken and fixing/replacing it.

I’d also want to give some thought to anywhere that water might get in and interfere with lubricants – engine oil, transmission, differential, wheel bearing – anywhere that might have a breather or some way that water could enter.

Finally, was it salt water? If so, then I’d want to do as thorough as possible job of cleaning all of the salt off of the metal surfaces – inside and out. Certainly today’s cars are better but they still aren’t intended for ocean submarining.

Finally, I’d want to replace any damaged cosmetic items like carpets, leathers, etc. Might be that some of these things can be cleaned successfully.

My guess is that the biggest problem you will have will be corrosion on wire connectors. This might take you a while to sort out and probably will be a continuing problem over the years for this car. I’d want to minimise this as much as possible by being super careful at cleaning everything I could find that was electrical related. I would also want to be very careful not to put electrical power to the car at least until I knew everything was dry and salt-free.

If you are intended to keep the car then you probably want to approach this much more diligently than if you intend to flog it for a quick buck.

Mind if I ask about the economics of the deal? How much did it cost? Are you willing to post the photos?? Sounds like a nice project.

One suggestion is that your car would be the perfect donor for a GT3 swap.

Good luck!

S.

wet996

First off, I have not tried to start the car yet – don’t want to do anymore damage. I talked to the driver who says the car shut down immediately when he hit the water. His description and the pics from the towing co. show most of the engine staying above water (license plate visible).

I am mainly concerned about key electronics that may be ruined. Specifically, those on the right side of the car and low in the dash/firewall (to use a US car term) and towards the front (which was a litter deeper than the rear).

I plan on keeping the car (don’t see much value with a rebuild title-plus I can “tweak” with out worrying about warrantee). I bought this car very cheap. I will post the photos (after I get them scanned).

Why would this be a good swap for a GT3??

Thanks again for the comments

RogerJ

Depending on how deep it got, I think you are fortunate as front/right is probably has the fewest number of electrical components. I think I would check the engine oil dipstick for signs of water, then pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over to clear any water from the cylinders, re-install, and see if it starts. You might just be lucky...

FixedWing

You need to determine why the engine stalled. If it stopped because the electronics shut it off (I believe this will happen in an airbag situation or maybe something less?) then ok. If it stalled because the clutch was engaged and the car was stationary then also ok.

But if it stalled because water entered the intake system and was sucked into the cylinders then big problem. Water and oil are not compressable in the way that air is. So if water gets into the cylinder and the engine tries to compress it on the compression stroke then something will break and the engine will stop dead.

If you have any doubts about this you must pull the spark plugs to check for fluids in the combustion chamber. If you find fluids I think I would tear the engine down. You'll likely have bent connecting rods and maybe more.

If you make sure the electronics are clean and dry before you add power to them then better chances that they will be ok. I'm sure you will be able to get what you need from junk yards. Long term, I still think corrosion on the electrical connectors will be the big issue.

With some imagination it is usually possible to clean the salvage title. Different states have different rules.

By GT3 conversion, I mean to say that this would be the perfect car to use to take a crashed GT3 from Europe and then swap everything to this car thus giving you a registered car in the USA which is in fact a full GT3. Others have done it.

If it was cheap then this sounds like a great project. The trouble with salvage cars is that they are usually badly bent. Being straight makes all the difference. If you are just swapping parts then you don't need to worry about weakened frames and alignment problems.

Why do you think the warranty would be void?

Good luck!

S.

Stem

There were a bunch of trucks that got flooded a number of years ago,(15 or so) and GM I think it was GM, crushed every one of them. People were offering them cash and no warranty claims, but they said no because the expectation was that the water damage would cause continuing small and large problems forever. Most of the worry was for electrics. Corrosion on connections and such as that.

As our cars are so much more refined, I'd be really careful, and demand a ridiculous discount. Even then it may still not be worth it!