Had oil service done-dealer used Castro over Mobil
08-12-2002, 07:11 PM
#17
Drifting
Okay, maybe I should post the whole (boring) TSB...
Here is an excerpt with the explanation:
[quote]Explanations:
Oil quality and non-conventional basic oils:
The basic oil and the additives added to it essentially determine the properties of engine oil. Non-conventional basic oils (synthetic or hydrocrack) have more favorable properties as compared to conventional oils (mineral oil). Non-conventional oils are relatively similar with respect to performance, regardless of whether they were produced using the synthetic or hydrocrack process.
In our approved oil list (Type column), the engine oils are identified as follows:
cp = basic oil produced conventionally - "conventional processing" (mineral oil).
ncp = basic oil not produced conventionally - "non-conventional processing" (synthetic or hydrocrack).
Non-seasonal "GL" light running oils:
GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. They have a particularly low tendency to evaporate at high temperatures due to their composition. The oils, that meet such high performance requirements, essentially synthetic or hydrocrack oils, can be used without restriction as non-seasonal oils (see approval list, "Type" column).
Non-seasonal "G" oils:
GL oils can be used as non~seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils<hr></blockquote>
Here is an excerpt with the explanation:
[quote]Explanations:
Oil quality and non-conventional basic oils:
The basic oil and the additives added to it essentially determine the properties of engine oil. Non-conventional basic oils (synthetic or hydrocrack) have more favorable properties as compared to conventional oils (mineral oil). Non-conventional oils are relatively similar with respect to performance, regardless of whether they were produced using the synthetic or hydrocrack process.
In our approved oil list (Type column), the engine oils are identified as follows:
cp = basic oil produced conventionally - "conventional processing" (mineral oil).
ncp = basic oil not produced conventionally - "non-conventional processing" (synthetic or hydrocrack).
Non-seasonal "GL" light running oils:
GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. They have a particularly low tendency to evaporate at high temperatures due to their composition. The oils, that meet such high performance requirements, essentially synthetic or hydrocrack oils, can be used without restriction as non-seasonal oils (see approval list, "Type" column).
Non-seasonal "G" oils:
GL oils can be used as non~seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils<hr></blockquote>
08-12-2002, 08:42 PM
#19
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[quote]Originally posted by Lucas:
<strong>I thought with the new cars and the synthetic oil, you did not need to change the oil until the first 15,000</strong><hr></blockquote>
Guess it depends on how **** you are about brake-in, your engine, oil, etc......personally, I've gotten that oil out shortly after brake-in or at least before 3000.....GreggT
<strong>I thought with the new cars and the synthetic oil, you did not need to change the oil until the first 15,000</strong><hr></blockquote>
Guess it depends on how **** you are about brake-in, your engine, oil, etc......personally, I've gotten that oil out shortly after brake-in or at least before 3000.....GreggT
08-12-2002, 10:34 PM
#20
[quote]Originally posted by Loren:
<strong>As of 11/30/2001 there is a TSB which states the following approved oils.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
What's with 1973?? Why are the oils not OK for pre-73??
Different cylinder liner material???
<strong>As of 11/30/2001 there is a TSB which states the following approved oils.
</strong><hr></blockquote>What's with 1973?? Why are the oils not OK for pre-73??
Different cylinder liner material???
08-13-2002, 01:22 AM
#21
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Wasn't "****" about changing oil after 2200 miles. I had it analyzed by <a href="http://www.youroil.net" target="_blank">http://www.youroil.net</a> as a cautionary measure because it was a new car. When the analysis showed up with higher than normal amounts of fuel and silicon (dirt), I had it changed at that time. I decided to check again at 6000 miles and the results were better, but not something I'm totally satisfied with. Thus, I'm changing the oil again at 6k and will have it analyzed again at 12K. If I'm not satisfied with the results I'll have discussions with the dealer. If not, I'm home free and will revert to the regular oil change schedule.
I think that is a very safe (and inexpensive) way to check on a 100k asset.
I think that is a very safe (and inexpensive) way to check on a 100k asset.
08-13-2002, 12:38 PM
#24
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[quote]Originally posted by Paul in CA:
<strong>Don, where did you get the oil analysis? Did you pay extra or was that part of the dealer service?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Paul, Larry Turner, a Rennlist member, offers this service. Click <a href="http://www.youroil.net/" target="_blank">here</a>.
<strong>Don, where did you get the oil analysis? Did you pay extra or was that part of the dealer service?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Paul, Larry Turner, a Rennlist member, offers this service. Click <a href="http://www.youroil.net/" target="_blank">here</a>.
08-13-2002, 12:43 PM
#25
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Paul in CA...if you go to this website.
<a href="http://www.youroil.net" target="_blank">www.youroil.net</a> you can get all the details. The guy who runs it is Larry Turner, a Rennlist contributor. Process is very simple. It's like 12 bucks if I remember correctly. You send for the kit which is a long tube and a bellows container. You just suck the oil sample out thru yor dipstick "tube" seal the little container and send in a pre-paid box they send you with the kit. You have to fill out some stuff on a form and then send it off. For the cost it's certainly worth it to me 'cause I'm on warranty and I want to establish a clear record in case something is wrong.
I'm attaching a copy of my report on a jpeg file, so it may or may not be readable. If you want I can email you the pdf file if you have acrobat reader.
Well worth the money in INMO
You can also email Larry at l_turn9@msn.com
<a href="http://www.youroil.net" target="_blank">www.youroil.net</a> you can get all the details. The guy who runs it is Larry Turner, a Rennlist contributor. Process is very simple. It's like 12 bucks if I remember correctly. You send for the kit which is a long tube and a bellows container. You just suck the oil sample out thru yor dipstick "tube" seal the little container and send in a pre-paid box they send you with the kit. You have to fill out some stuff on a form and then send it off. For the cost it's certainly worth it to me 'cause I'm on warranty and I want to establish a clear record in case something is wrong.
I'm attaching a copy of my report on a jpeg file, so it may or may not be readable. If you want I can email you the pdf file if you have acrobat reader.
Well worth the money in INMO
You can also email Larry at l_turn9@msn.com
