when do you need new rotors...?
08-18-2005, 02:17 AM
#31
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Where do you take your car for service TD?
Originally Posted by TD in DC
What an absolute load of crap! I am very thankful that my service techs are track junkies and honest.
You do NOT want to replace pads and rotors at the same time. If you have your sensors still in your pads, you don't need to replace them until your warning light comes on. I removed my sensors (actually, just zip tied them out of the way), so I inspect mine visually every weekend. You need to replace your pads whenever the pad thickness is equal to or less than the thickness of the backing plate. Easy to check without even removing the wheel. The only thing that should be shaking violently is the tech's neck after he tries to tell you that you must replace your rotors when you replace your pads or vice versa.
As 1999Porsche911 pointed out, the ridge is not a problem per se. The thickness of the narrowest portion of the rotor is what counts. Also, "grooves" on the rotor are not a problem either. Mine are well grooved but my brakes are outstanding.
You do NOT want to replace pads and rotors at the same time. If you have your sensors still in your pads, you don't need to replace them until your warning light comes on. I removed my sensors (actually, just zip tied them out of the way), so I inspect mine visually every weekend. You need to replace your pads whenever the pad thickness is equal to or less than the thickness of the backing plate. Easy to check without even removing the wheel. The only thing that should be shaking violently is the tech's neck after he tries to tell you that you must replace your rotors when you replace your pads or vice versa.
As 1999Porsche911 pointed out, the ridge is not a problem per se. The thickness of the narrowest portion of the rotor is what counts. Also, "grooves" on the rotor are not a problem either. Mine are well grooved but my brakes are outstanding.
08-18-2005, 08:00 AM
#32
I take the 996 to Porsche of Arlington for all service except for suspension and alignment work, which I have done at Autobahn in Fairfax. I used to take my former 986S to HBL of Tysons where I bought it. I take my 944 to RPM in Newington. We are lucky around the DC area because there are many good shops.
08-18-2005, 10:56 AM
#33
Burning Brakes
I don't know how some of you guys are driving to get your pads to last to 45K or 50K miles 
, but mine were shot at just under 30K and I didn't track the car (996 C4). I just swapped out the pads, visually inspected the rotors, and was on my way. No problems at all! 
, but mine were shot at just under 30K and I didn't track the car (996 C4). I just swapped out the pads, visually inspected the rotors, and was on my way. No problems at all!
08-18-2005, 12:04 PM
#34
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Just had mine replaced all round (Discs (as we call them) and pads). - Cost £ 1100.00 at Porsche dealer.
I'm staggered by the increase in braking performance now. Much more even and much less pedal travel.
My discs were absoluetly knackered and worn down below the minimum thickness at 29,000 miles. However this is partly the fault of the supplying dealer who at one year old scimmed the discs to remove corrosion.
Adrian
I'm staggered by the increase in braking performance now. Much more even and much less pedal travel.
My discs were absoluetly knackered and worn down below the minimum thickness at 29,000 miles. However this is partly the fault of the supplying dealer who at one year old scimmed the discs to remove corrosion.
Adrian
08-18-2005, 12:58 PM
#35
Originally Posted by TD in DC
What an absolute load of crap! I am very thankful that my service techs are track junkies and honest.
You do NOT want to replace pads and rotors at the same time. If you have your sensors still in your pads, you don't need to replace them until your warning light comes on. I removed my sensors (actually, just zip tied them out of the way), so I inspect mine visually every weekend. You need to replace your pads whenever the pad thickness is equal to or less than the thickness of the backing plate. Easy to check without even removing the wheel. The only thing that should be shaking violently is the tech's neck after he tries to tell you that you must replace your rotors when you replace your pads or vice versa.
As 1999Porsche911 pointed out, the ridge is not a problem per se. The thickness of the narrowest portion of the rotor is what counts. Also, "grooves" on the rotor are not a problem either. Mine are well grooved but my brakes are outstanding.
You do NOT want to replace pads and rotors at the same time. If you have your sensors still in your pads, you don't need to replace them until your warning light comes on. I removed my sensors (actually, just zip tied them out of the way), so I inspect mine visually every weekend. You need to replace your pads whenever the pad thickness is equal to or less than the thickness of the backing plate. Easy to check without even removing the wheel. The only thing that should be shaking violently is the tech's neck after he tries to tell you that you must replace your rotors when you replace your pads or vice versa.
As 1999Porsche911 pointed out, the ridge is not a problem per se. The thickness of the narrowest portion of the rotor is what counts. Also, "grooves" on the rotor are not a problem either. Mine are well grooved but my brakes are outstanding.
08-18-2005, 04:26 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by fast1
LOL. i agree with you, but the BMW dealers near you wouldn't think of replacing pads without also changing the rotors. It's a text book case of upselling.
In general you can break in most pads with 100 miles of normal daily driving, unless your daily trip is 100 miles of pure highway.
08-18-2005, 08:35 PM
#37
Originally Posted by jetskied
True most dealers are interested in upselling these days since cars tosay require less maintanence. However I disagree with TD remarks. Yes rotars and pads that are new may take a little longer to break in, but its not that much longer. I feel you are giving bad info, the fact is that if the rotars need to be replaced then do the pads too, because an uneven pad can cuase pressure points only on certain spot of the rotor thus wearing them uneven. In general a rotor that needs to be replaced has grooves in them and may even be warped so the pad will have defects that I would not want to scrape them on a new rotor.
In general you can break in most pads with 100 miles of normal daily driving, unless your daily trip is 100 miles of pure highway.
In general you can break in most pads with 100 miles of normal daily driving, unless your daily trip is 100 miles of pure highway.
08-18-2005, 09:43 PM
#39
Originally Posted by Big6Dad
Well you can tell this is not the OT forum. I commend both jetskied and TD. They disagreed but there was no flaming nor name calling. 
Besides, I would hope that Jetskied would want to buy me a beer (or a wine) if I ever make it to his neck of the woods, even if he does think my info on rotors is bad (even though it's not
). 
08-19-2005, 07:47 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Big6Dad
Well you can tell this is not the OT forum. I commend both jetskied and TD. They disagreed but there was no flaming nor name calling.
