Itzkirb

Chad, looking good. Nice shoes! Take some pics after the car settles...looks almost stock height in that picture.

SRL

My GT3 bars have 5 hole adjustments front, 4 holes rear. I started 1 hole from full soft in the rear and 2 holes from full stiff in front, and will start there at the track to tailor it to my preference (neutral with bias to oversteer, NO understeer if possible). So far the understeer on the street is better but not gone. This could have been acheived purely from the coilovers/alignment/cornerweighting and have nothing to do with the bar settings. I've been told that with the engine in the rear you need to think opposite on bar settings from a front engine car. I'm not sure if I buy that myself so I will figure it out on my own. The settings currently on the car (suggested by someone else) would tend to encourage understeer if they were on a front-engine car.

My fabricator modified (shortened) my links. Not sure if the modification is the same for your spring/shock upgrade as it was for my coilovers, but it's probably similar.

Chads996

You are coreect about the weight. Having a tiny smidge of understeer is perfectly fine. If you intend on running it on the street, its not a bad idea. I did this on the M3 track / street car.

It is the same instance with my combo. How much shorter are the links? I know of a good fabricator. Maybe I can get them made as well.

Chad

Rob in WA

It doesn't look like it's lowered at all. That's a big DIY, good job. Did you do an alignment?

SRL

Chad, not sure about the actual dimensions. I think the rears worked as is, and the fronts had to be shortened a half-inch or so, if I remember right. I wasn't there when he did it.

Chads996

Rob, yep..it took awhile. I should have the alignment done soon.

SRL - Could you measure the O.D. (outside dimension) of the drop links for me? I will get them fabricated. Who knows, maybe I could have a bunch manufactured and sell them.

Chad

itradem

Chad,

The front seems to be sitting too high with the H&R's. Seems like it will need to settle A LOT to get the proper look. Maybe it is the picture angle??? Take a few measurements from the floor to the center of the fender arch and let us know where she comes in at... might want to measure the rear while you are at it...

Chads996

Took some shots tonight. See my first post...

Chad

Chads996

You are correct. Good eye. The car had literally just been dropped. Nothing settled yet. See my edit to the first post.

Chad

LVDell

Looking good Chad. One suggestion though, take the pic with the fron wheels straight so we can actually see the final product Also, maybe take it in the garage where you took the first one so the naysayers can see the before and after settling pics.

One again, great work! Saved yourself a cool $1K in install costs that you can use for more mods!!!

Cheers,
Dell

Itzkirb

LOOKS GREAT!

arenared

You're right. Your little birdie told you wrong. Basically, in a corner, weight will shift to the stiffer end--either from springs or swaybars or shocks (transitionally only). Doesn't matter where the engine is. The more the relative weight shift, the more load that end (the stiffer end) takes on and the more that end's tires work and will tend to slide out (greater slip angles) under the additional stress.

You have the front pretty stiff and the rear pretty soft, so these settings are biased towards understeer. I have found personally, however, that although the stiffer end gets much more weight transfer, it doesn't tend to slide as much as I would expect based on past cars I've modded. After extensive playing around with alignments, I've found this to be because our cars have such low-profile wide contact patch tires that the increased load on the tire is partially offset by reduced body roll from the swaybars which keeps the tire patch in better position. It's kind of a win-win situation and why I love big swaybars.

Also, understeer and oversteer are transitional conditions. Slower corners will tend towards more understeer while higher speeds will tend towards more oversteer. A car set up for low-speed autocrossing will be handicapped for high-speed road racing. Personally, I like to have the non-driven end slide more (greater slip angles). For example, FWD cars, I like oversteer so I can power understeer it through the corner. For RWD, I prefer an understeer bias so I can power oversteer it in a corner. Right now, I'd like to get a little more understeer bias so I can put more power down in a corner as I'm limited to 3rd gear for most sweepers. One of the biggest factors I've found for tuning under/oversteer is tire pressures. For me, the factory fronts are way to low (Boxster S).

In skilled hands, oversteer can get you out of trouble while you countersteer and bleed off speed or hook the rear around while understeer will only get you to plow off the road. In unskilled hands, oversteer can get you in a spin with disastrous results while understeer is more forgiving. A lot also depends on your alignment and driving technique and I'm sure my technique is biased towards wrangling my FWD cars of the past (ricers).