evolvedaz

Ok everyone saw our other post about the prototyped sway bar links for the 996 C2. We finishing testing them through crappy weather, road racing, daily driving, couple of out of state drives... Results...

GREAT!!!

We ran the links with the factory sway bar and noticed the rear end a bit more stiffer. Less flex kept the rear of the car rigid and gave us more over steer. For racing we put a set of H&R front and rear sway bars on to increase our handling. Paired with the Agency Power sway bar links, they performed awesome on a track day. The test links never had bearing failure, corrosion, or any issues. We were pleased with the look, design, and improvement. So now we made them! Check out the "Official" spiel below.

With performance handling in mind, Agency Power has released their all new Performance Rear Sway Bar Links for the Porsche 996 Carrera 2 and 4.

Why sway bar links? The factory sway bar links utilize a simple design, ball joint and thin connecting rod. This style of links can be found on several makes and models of different vehicles. However, for the purist, the hardcore driver, and the weekend racer, these factory links are not enough. One of the first performance modifications you make in handling is the sway bars to assist with over and under steer. During aggressive driving scenarios, these factory links will flex and create a non rigid feeling. The Agency Power Rear Sway Bar Links for the Porsche 996 will change this immensely.

These rear end links are made of high grade 6061 CNC machined aluminum. The link maintains the same thickness throughout the length giving it a very strong structural integrity. The spherical bearings (monoballs) are used instead of urethane bushings for longevity as well as reduced noise. The bearings are sealed to prevent from wear and tear caused by dirt, water, mud, etc. Each bearing is held in place with a C clip to allow easy maintenance if desired. All hardware is stainless steel to prevent from rust and long term corrosion. The stainless metal collars are designed to give the link the correct alignment when attached to the shock body and sway bar. Each bolt uses an allen head for easy installation. Finally, the Agency Power Porsche Sway Bar Links are anodized in Royal Blue and engraved with the stylish AP logo. Not only standing out in your rear suspension setup, but offering you an edition that will truly enhance your handling performance.








Retail is $220, Rennlisters get them for $180.

Let me know.
Dan
1-866-44-VIVID x222
dan@vividracing.com

Elephant Chuck

Where are the seals? I'm seeing exposed spherical bearings in the pictures.

996scott

A dumb question. So by replacing the links, the rear of the car is a little stiffer and thus gives the car a little more understeer than the typical understeer these cars have built into them? If so , can these links be used with the Row suspension? Thanks for the help.

996scott

Sorry for the typo. I ment to say by changing the links, this gives you more OVERSTEER.

Mr. C4

Dan,

Would these work on a Mk.1 GT3?

Ciao,

Johannes E.

Apx2Apx

This is what I have been waiting for... Woo Hoo... What is the best way to order a set of these links.. and to make certain... will these fit the Mk II GT3 sway bars..

Thank you
David

evolvedaz

Sorry for the late response...been building up our Porsche section here -
http://store.vividracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=38
Still a work in progress as we are always adding new items.

The monoballs (bearings) are not exposed so grime, water, junk, funk, and everything else will not affect their performance. Yes you can see them, but the monoballs are built for this type of use. Similar to a HYME joint on suspension parts.

Anytime you stiffen up the rear suspension including bushings, sway bars, strut bars, control arms, lower braces, you are keeping that rear end more rigid which will give you more OVERSTEER and flat turning. So yes the sway bar links are a building block to improved handling. I am running them with the H&R sways we sell and the balance is great! I did run them with stock too.

Mr. C4 - The rear shock and sway bar setup is the same as the C2. So yes they will work.
Apx2Apx - The upgraded GT3 sway bars are the same fitment, just different diameter I believe, so yes they will work too.

You can call me to order or you can order online here -
http://store1.vividracing.com/catalo...oducts_id=7545
Enter in COUPON CODE 0110a9 in the checkout field and receive 10% off.

Thanks!
Dan

Cupcar#12

From the looks of your car you are running the GT-3 adjsutable sways - so these will work with the 15mm decrease in length that is required i believe
For the fronts - do the links need to be shortened as well? - Anyone know?

Elephant Chuck

I read this as they are in fact not sealed, but you feel they will hold up to the use. FYI, it is HEIM joint - named after the H.G. Heim company that originally introduced these in the US.

stiles_s

why don't you show them actually bolted onto the car, rather than loose? It looks to me like there might be a couple problems:

does the sleeve keep the link away from the flat vertical swaybar surface, or does the link come in contact with the swaybar? I'm no engineer, but...
- do you want the link to be angled as shown in the pic? don't you want the link absolutely perpindicular to the "plane" of the swaybar?
- on the other hand, if it snugs right up to the swaybar when tightened, you're losing the benefit of the bearing.

Just curious, some more pics with the units actually fastened into place might be useful.

Mr. C4

Dan,

On the Porsche PET5 CD the droplinks for the C2 and GT3 have different part numbers?!

Any advice?

Ciao,

Johannes E.

evolvedaz

Cup Guy...If your refering to me...I am running the H&R sway bars. I also ran it with stock sway bars. The sway bars all fit the same, just have different diameters or adjusting holes.

Mr.C4 - Take a pic of the underside of the rear suspension and post it or email it. Most likely the same as they have different part numbers for the year and model. I could be wrong. I could also send them out and if they do not fit take them back as long as they are undamaged.

Chuck Moreland - my bad on the spelling as I type fast, and think later Like I have said in other posts...these sway bar links have been used in many other vehicles, the application has NO failure and is used in daily drivers, road racers, autox. Everyone from HI to Maine has run these in all climates for years in other cars with no issues. In fact ours our better due to the thickness and hardware we use. No more needed to be said.

stiles_s...
This is the picture with the links full tightened down...
http://www.agency-power.com/images/996linkinstall2.jpg
The reason that one pic does not have it tighten as I was shooting pics for our install instructions. I apologize. Nothing wrong with them! I have each step of the install on the hard drive.
If we smashed the link right up against the sway bar, the monoball ( I should have not used the word bearing) will not be able to pivot. So you use a steel sleeve to give it that pivot point. Monoballs are more rigid, last longer, and do not make noise like urethane bushings do. If you notice, most suspension companies use monoballs instead of the bushings.

Any other questions feel free to PM or call me
Thanks
Dan

Elephant Chuck

Okay, but you haven't answered my question. I quote your opening post - "The bearings are sealed to prevent from wear and tear caused by dirt, water, mud, etc."

The pictures you post clearly show un-sealed bearings. Are they sealed or not?

evolvedaz

BTW Chuck...I love the look of the Old School Porsches...Post some pics of your Targa!

evolvedaz

I was confusing in my wording...they are monoballs not bearings. Bearings, like in a skateboard are sealed but have internal pieces that allow the center to move. These need to be greased and kept oil which if not they gunk up and fail. THESE SWAY BAR LIKES do not work like that. The swivel or pivot point is the only thing exposed. The rest is sealed from the outside. Since the pivot point is a moving part, yes dirt can get there, but not build up and cause it to not perform. The tolerance is vey tight and there is no room. This part needs to be open like a HEIM joint.

Hope that makes sense.