just about to put on a new set of PS2s.....

any thoughts on the need for alignment? changing tires at the Porsche dealer cos I can't drive on the bicycle tire to my usual tire guys.

ta

 

Did you hit a bump or are you just changing the tires??

 

just changing the tires......the tire guys are always suggesting that work....and no did not hit a bump tho driving in the bay area feels like a never ending set of bumps.

 

Heck no. I don't get allignment unless the car is tracking funny, I get suspension work done or I hit a pothol VERY hard. To get it done with every tire change is a waste of money, esp when the rears only get about 15-20K on it.

Bob

 

First off check if the old tire have a funny ware pattern. If it did then do the alignment. Also as said before if the car was tracking funny. IMO if you are spending more than a grand on tires an extra money to make tires last longer is worth it. BTW why not take it to a Just Tires. The ones in my neighborhood will put the car on the rack to see if it specs out for free. They only will charge you if they have to adjust it. I think it was $89.

 

car tracks fine....tires wear out after 10K and susceptible to punctures when there isn't much tread left (aka Pirelli PZeros). usually take it to custom alignment - do a great job....but can't drive all the way on the skinny tire.

 

Sonnen does a good job with alignments (my car will be there for one on Friday), but they charge $$$ ($250 less 10% PCA discount). If you haven't had one in awhile, you should bite the bullet and have it done...beats destroying a new set of tires.

 

I do self-alignments and have close to 20k miles on my current set of Bridgestones - this includes a self alignment after installing a PSS-9 kit about 8k miles ago and lowering the car.

Assuming the wear patterns on your used rubber are fine, and the car handles fine, why bother? After changing a set of tires? I don't think so!

Probably the hardest part of the alignment is the thrust angle of the car (rear tow)... front tow can also be a bit touchy too (it drives me crazy when the car tramlines around following grooves in the road). As far as camber and caster goes I just make sure it's the same from side to side.... when I lowered the car I of course gained more neg. camber - but that's fine with me as long as it's not extreme.

The method is simple - use tried and true measurement techniques, take car our for spin, evaluate handling, tweak. repeat.

A hunter rack is nice... and certainly quicker... the only solution if you're in this business to make money and need to complete an accurate alignment in x amount of time... but for the rest of us a toe gauge (read: string) and camber gauge is all you need.....

t

 

thx all.....no alignment tho be done at this time...I'll wait till I put in the M030

 

Hi everyone, after new suspension was installed , car has 68,000 miles,final setting in photo, street/track use.
What do you think, good setting?
2004 Porsche TT x50.

Paul at Porsche of Monterey did the work.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...no/photo-2.JPG

 

Lower half is the final setting, ignore the top that was after parts where replaced.

 

[QUOTE=timmhaines;10875110]Hi everyone, after new suspension was installed , car has 68,000 miles,final setting in photo, street/track use.
What do you think, good setting?
2004 Porsche TT x50.

Paul at Porsche of Monterey did the work.

 

You get 20,000 miles out of your tires???????

 

I consider anything less than 20K miles out of the rear tires on either of my cars a failure. Best was 23K miles and then a tire got a screw and the tech found the tread depth remaining enough (3mm) for the tire to qualify for replacement under the road hazard warranty I had bought for the tires, so one tire was replaced free of charge.

A good alignment will pay for itself by prolonging the life of at least 2 very expensive tires.

 

Old post. Deleted my response.