NickS

Standard C2 with 225/40-18's. Porsche says 0 degree +/- 15' but I would think having negative camber up front would be a good thing. I drive the car as it was intended to be driven and do 3-4 DE's a year.

RJFabCab

Nick,

What suspension are you running? Your camber adjustments will be severely limited on a stock setup.

I can only get about -0.8 up front and -1.5 in rear with the RoW 030. You may want to consider the RoW sport specs as listed in the Porsche technical manual.

NickS

I have stock suspension AFAIK.

I had -1.2 camber up front and -2.1 camber in the rear before my alignment. I used an alignment spec I found on Rennlist and went by that.

I now have 0.0 camber up front and -1.2 camber in the rear. The front end doesn't feel as planted as before. I am thinking that I will go back to -1 for front camber and see if that makes it better. I changed the rear settings because I was eating through rear tires.

I think the person that owned this car before me had different suspension on the car #1 because of the alignment setting and #2 because the front fenders have been rolled.

Viken

Go for -1° in front and -1° 20' at rear. A 20' differential front to back is just about ideal.

NickS

Yeap. That is what I planned on doing.

What about front and rear toe settings? Should the rear even have any? It's currently set at .05° in the front (total is .10°) and .12° in the rear (total s .25°).

Darren

I'm running -1.4' front camber (as much as you can get evenly) and -2.5' rear camber (PSS9). For my driving style on the track, this seems about correct. I need more camber in the front though, the outside edge of the tire gets pretty hot. The rears are wearing evenly, and the tire temps are even. The tires wear on the street of course, so I don't buy $200/each street tires. I'm just driving the Dunlop SP Sport Race on street/track, no more changing wheels at the track and $130 each....wohoo!

From another post -- the 2004 GT3 spec is:

Front axle height: 115 + 5mm (115 to 120mm)
Rear axle height: 128 + 5mm (128 to 133mm)

Front axle:
Toe unpressed (total): +8' +/- 2'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°30' +/- 30'
Camber: -1° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'
Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 40'

Rear axle:
Toe per wheel: +13' +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'
Camber: -1°50' +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'

NickS

I have the stock suspension and the previous rear camber setting was -2.5 and it wore through the 2 inside treads too fast. Maybe with the lowered suspension you are able to run more camber?

Thanks for the Alignment specs. I'm going to go with -1 camber on the fronts and adjust the toe a bit.

Darren

I could only get about -.8' in front before it was lowered. That was better than 0', but it just wasn't enough. That was why I bought the PSS9, so I could lower the car and add more negative camber. -2.5' rear is definately overkill on the street, and might be on the track as well. In your case, I'd just get as much as possible out of the front, move the struts all the way in, and then go with -1.5' or so rear. Good luck!