Picking up a 996.2 this weekend
#61
I disagree with a front mount air to oil cooler on a rear engine car.
Unless engines lubrication system was designed for that long a pipe run, ng. Pumping 5-50wt oil that far will cause lubrication losses/issues. Every foot of hose/pipe, every bend in pipe, is a restriction that cause pressure drop. It adds up fast. But it will still cool oil nicely.
Best to keep the pipe run as short as possible, with large enough id of hose and cooler.
IMHO, Key here is a very high cfm fan with proper shrouds on cooler. In our application, best to use a small air to oil cooler that is designed to be compact with big heat transfer capacity,, with the right amount of forced airflow.
While most of the time especially for radiator placement, a good airflow area or a ducted fresh air area is very important for good btu removal.
But here we are talking about a small oil to air cooler with turbulent flow/high pressure, that has huge differentials of temps. 230°oil - to ambient air of maybe 100°(?) when mounted in any under lid/under car/under rear bumper area. As long as its positioned to avoid recirculating the same air, it will cool extremely well is my experience with coolers with big cfm fans.
With added temp sensors in both lines its easy to see exactly how well its removing heat. And worst case scenario, these temp differentials will tell you if its in need of ducting or repositioning. My guesstimate is a good(small but well made/big cfm fan) air to oil cooler install will lower oil temps 25°-50°.
If a front mount air to oil cooler is needed/wanted then a different route is probably best. If trying to remove/negate the added heat on #6 cyl, install the oil cooler adapter plate with a short loop bypass on water and oil line.
Then use A separate electric oil pump, with supply and return lines on sump area would be best. Probably a low pressure system with bigger air to oil cooler would avoid aerating the oil in sump. This might be the best way, but more costly and more complicated
jmo
Unless engines lubrication system was designed for that long a pipe run, ng. Pumping 5-50wt oil that far will cause lubrication losses/issues. Every foot of hose/pipe, every bend in pipe, is a restriction that cause pressure drop. It adds up fast. But it will still cool oil nicely.
Best to keep the pipe run as short as possible, with large enough id of hose and cooler.
IMHO, Key here is a very high cfm fan with proper shrouds on cooler. In our application, best to use a small air to oil cooler that is designed to be compact with big heat transfer capacity,, with the right amount of forced airflow.
While most of the time especially for radiator placement, a good airflow area or a ducted fresh air area is very important for good btu removal.
But here we are talking about a small oil to air cooler with turbulent flow/high pressure, that has huge differentials of temps. 230°oil - to ambient air of maybe 100°(?) when mounted in any under lid/under car/under rear bumper area. As long as its positioned to avoid recirculating the same air, it will cool extremely well is my experience with coolers with big cfm fans.
With added temp sensors in both lines its easy to see exactly how well its removing heat. And worst case scenario, these temp differentials will tell you if its in need of ducting or repositioning. My guesstimate is a good(small but well made/big cfm fan) air to oil cooler install will lower oil temps 25°-50°.
If a front mount air to oil cooler is needed/wanted then a different route is probably best. If trying to remove/negate the added heat on #6 cyl, install the oil cooler adapter plate with a short loop bypass on water and oil line.
Then use A separate electric oil pump, with supply and return lines on sump area would be best. Probably a low pressure system with bigger air to oil cooler would avoid aerating the oil in sump. This might be the best way, but more costly and more complicated
jmo
On another note, doesn't scoring start on the front passenger side, but ultimately goes to the drivers side? If true, wouldn't moving the oil cooler simply delay the inevitable, not stop it?
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allcool (09-08-2024)
#62
Wow! Almost too much info to read. The seller didnt want to deal with an inspection so sold to someone mode local who didnt care about an inspection. It was a pretty good price, $17k 95k miles no accidents, lapis blue, but ugly wheels/custom inserts, no ims job. Search continues. Thinking about springing for a 4s if i can find out for $25 for the bumpers
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996love (09-07-2024)
#63
Your car also has an oil to water heat exchanger for the gearbox.
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allcool (09-08-2024)
#64
Your car has a gigantic oil to water heat exchanger underneath the throttle body. Seriously it's at least 2x the size of the M96 heat exchanger. Oil temp is never a problem on the Mezger unless you're pushing 1000 hp.
Your car also has an oil to water heat exchanger for the gearbox.
Your car also has an oil to water heat exchanger for the gearbox.
#65
#66