Not sure what all this talk about cleaning under the dust boot is for 20 + year old calipers. We are not talking about newer calipers on a race car.

'never time to do it right always time to do it twice' is what I use to tell the guys that worked for me when doing something half a$$ and getting call backs...

Do it right, its not hard. Take them apart, clean/blow out all the smegma you're sure to find inside 20 yo calipers. Use brake clean and compressed air. Install new seals and dust boots, bleed correctly and call it day.

Rebuilding them is not hard, or expensive. you don't have to paint them.

jmo

 

This is the way,..

 

Rebuild kits can be purchased here.

https://autobrakesolutions.com/pages...h_all~in_front

 

Ditto if you want high temp.

 

One possibility that I have not seen mentioned in this thread is the that the metal shims behind the brake pads might be the culprit. The shims are adhered to the pads, and they help reduce brake squeal. However, sometimes the shims can seperate from the pad resulting in unusual pad friction on the rotor. It happened to my car. I even rebuilt the offending caliper before properly diagnosing the real problem. Simply removing the shims solved the problem. I too saw slightly higher brake temps on that wheel.

 

How did you figure this out? Did you have to remove the caliper to see it? Was it obvious?

The squeaking is slighter now, but can still be heard when slow rolling near any side wall or row of cars.

 

No need to remove the caliper. Just remove the pads from the caliper and inspect the shims. Each pad should have a shim attached to it. However, a loose shim can create problems. If you do discover loose shims, simply discard them. They do do not affect braking performance.