Hi All - please read through before flaming me with "we've covered this 1,000 times comments!" I have yet to see this exact situation covered anywhere, and if I can't fix it then my only recourse will be to take it to the dealer and risk getting fleeced.

I recently bought a 2004 C4S in great shape. On Day 1, the trunk opened fine using the key fob. Also, on Day 1 (later), the trunk decided it wouldn't open under any circumstances. It eventually decided that it would, but only when it felt like it going forward. Now, it doesn't feel like opening at all, under any circumstances. I haven't been able to open the trunk (frunk) for at least two weeks and I try it every day.

The battery/electrical system is fine. The hood release actuator is getting juice; you can hear it trying to release the primary catch but it just can't/won't. I tried putting power on the emergency clip in the fuse box to give it some extra volts, but that didn't work either. I've tried every technique I could find for resetting the lock system, I've walked away and come back (try it again every day using the door sill switch and the fob), I've sprayed WD-40 in the hood gap at the latch in an act of desperation - nothing will get the primary latch to release via normal means.

So, the emergency cable that seems to work for everyone else: when this problem originally surfaced, I had it on a lift, looked behind the passenger wheel well (where the cable loop is supposed to be on a US-spec 2004 996.2) and could find nothing. Took off the plates under the front bumper so we could reach up there and feel around, and found the cable. It IS connected to the SECONDARY latch - the latch with the red tab that we move AFTER the actuator has released the primary latch and "popped" the hood an inch or so - and the cable runs from the latch towards the passenger side before disappearing into a rubber boot/grommet never to be seen again. I checked behind the tow hook cover; no dice.

Nonetheless, we could grab onto the cable with our hands - and we can physically grab the secondary latch - but pulling with all our might/moving the latch manually does absolutely nothing. The red tab latch moves slightly as we pull on the cable/manually squeeze the latch but won't actually release anything. After looking at all the schematics and watching a few videos, I'm at a loss as to how that is supposed to work anyway, since the emergency cable is only connected to the secondary latch and does nothing to cause the primary latch (normally released by the electronic actuator) to release.

Regardless, bottom line here is that the primary hood release actuator is trying but failing to release the primary release catch, and the emergency cable, despite being in the wrong place, won't release the latch, either. I can't pull off the bumper without opening the trunk lid, and even if I could I don't know if I would be able to get to anything that would help without the trunk lid being up.

Just to satisfy my curiosity, I pulled the DRIVER's wheel liner to see if there might, for some reason, be a 997-style emergency release cable behind the driver's headlight and, as expected, there wasn't. (This is a secondary cable that connects to a sort of "hook" on the PRIMARY actuator and will pull on it to release the primary latch catch, not the secondary latch as in the 996.)

So, having tried everything, I'm at a loss. I've read countless threads on this and other forums, watched dozens of videos online, and still don't have a viable solution that's working for me. Again, this seems incredibly unique - 1 of 1 - as in every case where someone has asked for help they've been able to either jump it from the fuse box or utilize the emergency cable. Those aren't working on my specific car. I have a new actuator to install as soon as I can open it but as of now it looks like the dealer will be doing it for me if they can even get it open themselves.

As an aside, the front bumper was pulled a couple of years ago for a re-spray (hood, too) and I could tell that things weren't put back to OE spec (fasteners missing, not the correct fasteners when they weren't missing, bigger gap on on side of the hood at the bumper than the other, etc).

I humbly request thoughts, recommendations, and drink recipes from the group. Thank you in advance, and Happy Memorial Day!

 

Have you tried having someone push down on the lid while the other person pulls the cable?

 

Try pushing down on the hood while pulling the emergency release cable. Or also try lifting the hood while pulling on the cable.

 

I should've mentioned that - I've tried having someone push down at the appropriate point on the hood while pulling the cable, pressing the fob key, pulling the lever inside, etc.

I've even tried using a plastic pry tool wrapped in a microfiber cloth to move the lever. Basically, if it has been recommended before I've definitely tried it. This one just flummoxes me.

Fair questions, though, and thank you for trying!

 

I hate to say it but a dealer isn't going to be able to perform some magic trick. Everything described so far are your only options. When using the fuse box method, did you hook it up to a known good 12V auto battery? I've heard that a trickle charger or battery maintainer doesn't have the amps. It's got to be a good 12V battery with some amps/juice. Let this be a lesson to everyone. This conundrum strikes every so often on Rennlist. Take this as a warning to locate the cable pull, make sure it is hooked up right and functions, and relocate the cable pull to just inside the tow hook plug. Do it NOW.

 

Appreciate the insight - perhaps I'll try again with a full-up 12V auto battery rather than a jumper.

The key to your other comment above is making sure the cable pull "is hooked up right and functions." There's no way to do that until you locate it and test it on a new-to-you 996. I had the luxury of having to test that on Day One to no avail.

You can plan on using the emergency cable all day long until you go to execute on that plan. If it doesn't work, you're screwed like me.

I just went out and tried the "push on the hood" method while I was pulling on the cable AND pressing the fob button right after letting it run for a few minutes to make sure there was good juice. Nothing.

 

Just an FYI< the emergency cable in my C2 was "popped" out of the latch mechanism. Luckily mine is an MY1999 and has the cable lever inside the car as well.
Not sure what to think if the actuator is bad and the cable is not seated....

 

Punch the hood at the point where it’s connected to the latch. Try and see if you can jiggle some life into the electric portion of the actuator.

if you can’t punch, find something with mass*, but won’t damage the hood/paint, and use that to jounce the actuator.

*edit: like a bag of rice in a silk pillowcase.

 

Have seen a slight misaligned hood/latch jamming the hood closed.
If you can hear the latch activating when the button is pulled thats good.

Hood striker/latch could be jammed. Try this, Immediately after hitting the button and hearing it work, go to the front of car and at each front corner of the hood get a finger or 2 under each corner. Now apply upward pressure on each corner alternating the sides, and then doing both sides at once. Might take a lot of upward pressure and a finger or 2 doesn't allow for much. This has worked for me as long as you can hear the latch solenoid activating. If that doesn't work have someone hitting the button while you do the up ward pressure thing...

If none of that works you'll have to take things apart and go in from the bottom.

 

Against my better judgement I did put a microfiber towel down and have my wife sit on the hood right above the latch while I pulled on the cable and pressed the key fob. Added a little bouncing action, still no joy...

 

Can you hear the solenoid try to engage?

If so, as they age the electric magnetic field tends to fade over the years. It's is worse when it is warm. You might try when it is coolest outside with a 12V battery.

 

tequila. Try teguila. That's all I can contribute to this dilemma.

 

Here's my contribution to your problem. Hope this helps.

 

THAT is an excellent video; thanks for sharing. I'm surprised I haven't found that already.

The cable assembly makes a LOT more sense as depicted. What's throwing me off is that I can clearly feel (not see) my cable running into the lower portion of the secondary latch mechanism (with the red tab; the lower portion of that latch is not shown in this video).

So, either someone was in there at some point over the last 20 years, reassembled the mechanism, and put it back together all wrong, or I have my hands on some other cable running to the secondary latch and haven't actually found the cable running to the primary latch as depicted. I know one thing: it's not behind the wheel well or the tow hook.

Either way, this helps my understanding of how it is supposed to work. Go Dawgs!

 

My emergency release cable was originally located between the passenger headlamp and the frunk, before I relocated it. I’m not sure if that’s how it came from the factory, or if the previous owners moved it there.

I would recommend you to remove the front passenger wheel and wheel liner and look up to see if you can find it there.