When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
@woo102 How did you get the resonance tube out? Did you have to loosen the driver's side intake manifold to get the necessary clearance to wiggle it free? Contemplating my next move here.
Gettkng it back in is worse . Use an inspection mirror or even better, a endoscope to confirm the boots r on correctly. Most swear they get it right but dont.
I just went through all of these issues after discovering oil leaking from the crossover tube from the AOS( and all the havoc that it caused ). I ultimately went to the UAOS as a replacement for stock which have a high failure rate. You probably have a failed one also…replace asap. This job can be done with a motor drop as opposed to motor out. Yes removing intakes makes it all easier to get to resonance tubes…etc. Any work on these 20 something’s will reveal brittle plastic pieces and they will create Vac leaks as well as installer error( yea…that’s it most of the time…Ask Skip…designer of the UAOS. One of the coolant lines modified during the install failed and that caused lot of issues with coolant contamination. Car was idle so long can’t get system ready due to O2 sensors and cats so still chasing that. I have an p0174 that’s most likely needing a new MAF sensor. I’m going to check the live date on the Durametric and confirm if value# are off again. Patience is your friend and not over-thinking solutions…great work so far.You’ll get it.
Yeah, they unbolt the intake manifold in the FCP Euro video. Happy to hear that it's possible to remove (and maybe reinstall) without doing that extra work. I can locate the 6 manifold bolts with my fingers, but there's no way I'm getting a socket or wrench on the back one without at least pulling the alternator out.
Okay, I was able to remove it. Looks like Pelican Parts sold me the wrong replacement resonance tube, though. Where is everyone finding this replacement part? The smaller Boxster version of the tube seems to be the only one readily available.
The stock airbox I ordered off of eBay came in…..but……my car developed a problem:
Very hard starting.
I week or two before I went on the vacuum hunt, the car did something funny. I stopped to get something to eat. When I came back out, the car started fine and I drove away fine. 5 minutes down the road, the car bogged, stumbled hard, and lost most of its power…..thought I was going to have to pull over and get a tow.
Then it cleared up and ran fine for a couple weeks.
Then I went on this vacuum leak hunt.
The car ran better when I was done with the vacuum leak hunt…..but I started noticing it would crank over slightly longer than before, before it actually started.
At the time, I chalked it up to computer re-learn after the battery was disconnected.
The extended cranking when starting problem got progressively worse….and today, it will barely start.
If I leave the gas pedal alone, it won’t start at all.
If I try to start at WOT, it won’t start at all.
I have to feather the throttle to get it to start.
Then it stumbles for a bit.
Then it runs absolutely stinkin fine.
No black smoke at all when this happens….so I don’t think it’s rich / flooding.
I got out my cheap OBD2 dongle and read the RPM while cranking.
I was getting ~200 rpm while cranking, so I don’t think it’s a crank sensor.
Going to check the fuel pressure while cranking tomorrow and see what I find.
Maybe it’s a bad fuel pump and / or fuel pump relay.
Sounds like your guess is good,,,, first thing I thought of was a fuel pump. Second was a bad ignition switch...
Third was your engine block to chassis ground, on the passenger side bottom of the motor, when I dropped my engine
to replace it, found that cable was loose.. and covered in oil and dirt. Perfect hatching ground for a intermittent ignition shutdown.
Fuel pressure update:
Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge.
Car was cold.
Cycled the key on and off 3 times: gauge got up to around 18 psi once, immediately leaked down to 0 in about 3 seconds and struggled to even move the second time I tried to cycle on/off 3 times.
When trying to start the car, the pressure while cranking was between 10 psi and 18 psi.
The car started (a bit of an extended crank time but not bad at all) and the pressure was up at 48-50 psi.
Shut the car off and the pressure leaked down to 0 in less than 10 seconds.
Also could be the flexible lines in the fuel tank.
Yes, don't forget those. My understanding is the only way to know is to look at them directly. Not uncommon for them to split.
At this point are they available separately from the fuel pump or is it all one unit?
Yes, don't forget those. My understanding is the only way to know is to look at them directly. Not uncommon for them to split.
At this point are they available separately from the fuel pump or is it all one unit?
Amazon has the the coragated vinyl fuel lines in all kinds of shapes and sizes if u need to make a repair.
Finally got the fuel pump in: problem solved.
Before taking it for a test drive, I tested the fuel pressure and leak down.
Pressure was around 48-52 while running lost less than 5 lbs in 10 minutes.
Took it out for a few drives…..did a few hot starts…..works great!
The only hiccup I ran into was the fuel float/sender. Even though everything I read said because to ensure the float if moving free (not tangled up in lines) before finishing the instal, you guessed it, my fuel float was tangled in the lines and I was stuck on empty even after I put fuel in it. When I did the fuel pump, I emptied the fuel out of the tank first.
I pulled the sender back out (this time with the fuel tank mostly full) and made sure it was free before reinstalling.
2nd time was a charm.
The new fuel pump hoses were routed slightly differently (see picture)….not sure why.
06-02-2024, 11:23 AM
. Use an inspection mirror or even better, a endoscope to confirm the boots r on correctly. Most swear they get it right but dont.
