gcracer1

I would like to start this thread by thanking e30rapidic for his thread on the same subject. His notes were what inspired me to think I could make this happen. This thread is meant to be a supplement for those that want to do the same. theprf has also been very helpful as I worked my way through some of the electrical/PIWIS items.

This is essentially my first time working on a "modern" car. All my other work has been on 356's and VW's so lots of learning for me!

My car is a 2001 996.1 so some of my notes are specific to to that exact car but I will try and make them a bit generic if I can. The turbo and GT3 cars have completely different engines and trannies. I would suggest have the Bentley Manual hard copy, soft copy of the Factory WSM. There are different versions of the Factory WSM on line. Some have more details than others.

TRANSMISSION

• I bought a 2004 Ltd Edition tranny because it was available and I wanted the ltd slip as the car is destined to be a gravel road car.
• the 996.1 TIP can be removed with the engine remaining in the car although access to all the engine bolts is challenging
• I understand the removing the 996.2 TIP is almost impossible with the engine in the car
• the tranny mounts for the 996.1 TIP and all the 996 MT's are the same
• also need to buy shifter, clutch, flywheel, flywheel bolts (they are longer than thrust plate bolts)
• you need to plug the old TIP cooler lines
• I used 996.2 axles (TIP axles are different, although the inner CV's are almost the same except for the boot) Not sure if 996.1 and 996.2 axles are the same.
• engine bolts are slightly different. You can shorten the bolts to meet shorter MT specs (in WSM) and use one shorter additional bolt which can be a conventional bolt.
• need shift cables
• need reverse light connector where it plugs into MT. I used the TIP wires form the TIP harness by lengthening them

CLUTCH

• need pedal, pedal shaft, slave cylinder, pressure lines (2 long, 1 short, plus flex line to MT), master cylinder, feed line
• the TIP fluid reservoir does not have a clutch outlet so you either need a MT reservoir or a feed line with the special fitting on it and you drill a hole for it.
• need clutch to cruise switch. read your model specific wiring diagram and copy MT wiring. I had to run a wire from BS 14/2 to clutch switch to DME 7.2 plug IV pin #23
• clutch to starter interlock switch. I copied the ROW cars which do not have this function. read your model specific wiring diagram and copy MT wiring. grounded DME 7.2 plug IV pin #1.
• I did not install the clutch spring but you need the cage

BRAKE

• need brake pedal

TIP WIRING

• left in place

INSTRUMENT POD

• it would appear that a MT instrument pod is required. I am not sure how but the DME and the instrument cluster need to both be happy with each other. The DME is programmable but it doesn't seem like the cluster is.

PIWIS

• I bought a clone PIWIS3. From what I have read it is much more user friendly than early PIWIS's. That said, it was not easy for me. My project was aggravated by a faulty MT cluster which I replaced. Also aggravated by my lack of skill with PIWIS.

But its now running and its FUN to drive! Still figuring out a couple CEL which I will post about soon.

gcracer1

I still have a couple of computer issues relating to this conversion. I am hoping someone out there can shed some light.

I have a fault "P0600 CAN timeout Tiptronic (no signal)"

I guess its no surprise that there is no signal. The question would be why is the DME looking for a signal? Using PIWIS3 I have (or at least I think I have) reflashed the DME for MT and I have deselected M249 Tiptronic and selected M480MT in the coding.

But its still looking for a TIP signal?

theprf

I don't think the ecu can be successfully flashed from AT to MT. This is also why you're getting rev hang on clutch depression.
Did you code the ABS to manual trans?

De Jeeper

I have a key, immobilizer and dme from my manual 2000 car 4 sale $500. The fob button did not lock/unlock so i just used the key. Never really looked into why. Lmk if u want to try it.....if it fixes your issues u can buy it.

gcracer1

Thank you theprf. You have helped to get a little closer to the issue. I have not coded the ABS to MT because there did not seem to be a way to do this. Upon further playing with the PIWIS is have occasioned upon a screen that looked like it would allow this but then I cannot follow it through. It appears that the PIWIS has an unstable connection with the ABS Control Unit. 95% of the time I try I cannot do anything in coding and I also cannot read actual values. Twice I have tried and I can see actual values and I can almost get through the coding but then I lose connection. I do not seem to have an issue with any of the other Control Units. I have tried with the car running and I have a good power supply.

When I do get PIWIS to connect to the ABS CU I get this screen for actual values:



and this screen when I look for faults:



and this screen when I try to code:

theprf

The ABS without TC is really cheap. Might try to get a used one. I suspect the ABS electronic module is about to go bad, very common with the 5.3 ABS. Module master can repair most of these problems too.

PS, you can check if you really do have ABS without TC by counting the pipes that go to the ABS: should be 5 total pipes. ABS without TC is a 3-circuit ABS with both rear wheels on the same hydraulic pipe.

e30rapidic

Love it!!! Congratulations.

When I get a few minutes, ill fire up my PIWIS and get some screen shots for ya.

gcracer1

I agree with your diagnosis theprf. I have a used ABS module on the way. And yes it is 5 pipes, 2 in and 3 out. so no TC. Thanks for the insight.

Screen shots would be great. thanks e30rapidic.

theprf

I recoded my 5.8 + PSM abs from tip to manual with my piwis2 and it was not that big of a deal.

gcracer1

I have connected another used ABS CU. Unfortunately I have exactly the same results. Either the 2nd CU has the same issue or there is something else in the car or the PIWIS which is preventing proper connection. Anyone have ideas on what the next step in figuring this out should be?

theprf

Disconnect anything else on the k-wire and try again. If there is an aftermarket stereo start with that.

gcracer1

I am not sure what you mean by "disconnect anything else on the K-wire" . Do mean everything on the diagnosis circuit? What is your thinking here?

There is no stereo.

Just to clarify....it appears that I have an inconsistent and incomplete connection between PIWIS and the ABS CU.

e30rapidic

Screen shots as promised, probably not much help but I can see what the VAL produced

theprf

Yes disconnect as much as possible from the diagnostic circuit. Aftermarket radios are a common problem messing up the K-line. I'd ensure the K-wire is disconnected and insulated at the radio connections.

neversummer

I'm about 80% done doing this swap on my 2003. I was missing a few things I had to order but everything is here now so I need to knock it out. My AOS was also leaking so I'm doing a complete AOS replacement.

I was on the fence about buying a PIWIS but it looks like would be cheaper for me to buy one then drive the car to the shop and have them "try" to figure out any computer issues. Where did you buy your?