LRsCarreraS

Another tidbit: Just got back from Advance Auto. The battery that was in it when it died is at end of life and the big one in the picture is “really good…“ I’ve been using the big one since I got home and trying to fix this bad boy…

De Jeeper

Now u have to check the other terminals.

Pin 30 is also yellow. It should ha e 12v when u turn the key to the start position.

Pin 85 is ye/vt/bn goes to pin d33 in the dme. This should go to ground when the computer sends the signal to the starter (key in start position)

Pin 86 rd/bu this should be 12v with the key on its power for many relay coils and sensors

LRsCarreraS

Thx, but starting at the start…if I’m expecting 12v at pin 87 while ignition is in start position and don’t get it (showed 0.35v). Doesn’t that mean there is a problem upstream (no signal/current going to start relay)…?

BTW you had asked about fault codes previously. Pro version of Durametric should show tomorrow and I’ll be then able to read fault codes…

That said, not sure that Durametric can read or diagnose the immobilized/CLU at the component level.

LR

De Jeeper

If u look at the diagram of the relay posted earlier....

30 is 12v power in
87 goes to the stater seliniod

For 30 to connect to 87 the coil must energise. So one side of the coil needs 12v and the other is ground. The 12v is supplied when the key is on and the dme closes the ground.

So u need to test each pin. No power to 87 means the relay is not closing. The results from the other pins will tell u why.

1. 12v to pin 30 means u have power to the relay
2. A continuity check between the small wire on the starter and 87 will tell u the wire is good to the starter
3. 12v on the coil tells u its ready to energise
4. Ground On the coil tells u the dme is telling the coil to close, thus allowing the stater to fire.

This is the first step for diag. U can also go through every fuse up front and in back. There is also a fuse on the immobilizer. It may be as simple as a blown fuse.

To check the immobilizer u have to pack it up and send it, your key and the dme to www.ecudoctors.com. What i can say is i have never seen an immobilizer fail like this.

Learing how to diag electrical issues is worth the squeeze.

LRsCarreraS

Got ya - Will go through in order you prescribe. Yes one of the fist things I checked was 15a mini-fuse on immobilized. All of the related fuses are good up front have not looked at fuses in rear yet.

Thank you.

LRsCarreraS

Several codes. Will go through the Start Lock relay (position7), but suspect all it will do is confirm that no switching voltage is even getting that far with the first image with “fault 33 DME-immobilizer, open circuit.” under Alarm I48 Durametric menu.

Hope is someone has seen this before and knows what the fix is….?

allcool

Should have 12v at term 30, try jumping terminal 87 & 30 together. That should spin over the starter motor if all is good there.
This will tell you if its a control signal problem or starter system problem. Make sure car is in neutral when testing.

LRsCarreraS

Update: now have 12v to pin 30 on position 7 (start lock) relay with key in ON position. AND relay 7 clicks…at same time. Is that normal behavior for that relay where it is unlocking the ABILTY to start….

Saw other posts talking to jumping pin 30 to 87 and engine (starter) should crank… when I jump those pins, nothing happens, other than the dash voltmeter moving slightly.

So still not fully understanding the system. Makes me think it’s one of two things:

I installed the ignition switch wrong if the start lock relay actually should not function (click) when key is turned to on, but only when turned to start position.

Or….the starter is bad…

Is this logical?

LRsCarreraS

Ok missed above msg. Sounds like the signal side is fine but the start side is not…again when I jumped pin 30 and 87, engine did not crank.

OBTW I have the clutch safety switch jumped also…

LRsCarreraS

I suppose I could just start the work to replace the starter. 94k miles on engine and not seen any PO notes on starter being replaced…

Worst case I have a reliable starter for hopefully the remaining life of the car…

There’s an FCP video on starter replacement. Well within my capabilities, just wish car was on lift to raise some to optimize reach vs bending down. Looks like starter is around the 11o’clock position of engine.

In fact pulling it now before a replacement in hand will allow me to bench test it. And will also ensure there is no corrosion or bad grounds (?).

allcool

Yup, sounds like a bad starter. Powering up term 87 directly energizes the starter. You Seeing the voltage drop means its pulling current and not spinning. Only other thing could be is if Y cable is totally bad not letting hardly any current thru...

By the way, jumping out 30 to 87 bypasses the clutch safety switch, directly feeding the starter solenoid.

Would advise to check continuity of 87 small wire to starter, but you said you see a voltage drop when jumped so its probably good and starter windings are pulling current/shorted/bad.

At this point its uneeded but could play around and clamp an amp-probe on big wire to starter or even on the battery either neg or positive and jump 30/87, should see amperage draw,,, or
maybe smoke at starter (lol) if starter is trying to spin with shorted windings. Unless starter windings are now almost totally open.

jmo

LRsCarreraS

Not too bad pulling the starter. Think the engine had been dropped before cuz the band clamps were all clocked awkwardly on the two plenums…Fortunately was able to get really small box end wrench in there to start to loosen, then flexible 1/4 drive extension to speed things up…

Starter INOP. First bench test try, bendix tried to come out but didn’t and nothing from the starter motor itself.

Reasonable price for 100% new Bosch starter ordered on Amazon. Probably made in China, so will see how long this one lasts. One coming out didn’t have any manufacturing date visible, probably covered by the Bosch remanufactured sticker, so not the first time the starter has been replaced. This is third component (ignition coils, injectors, now starter) on this car that’s OEM and made in China. For a reasonably priced 996, have to put up with non German parts, but really that’s the only OEM option without paying Porsche labeled part prices which are 3-5 times the cost. I at least hope that if you buy Porsche parts they have a shred of pride left and have smaller runs of those parts made in Germany. If not and they’re still made in China, that’s insult to injury!!!

Will update when starter installed.

Thx,
LR

LRsCarreraS

Final update: C4S is back in business. It was the starter and now I have a buttery smooth ignition and newfound 996 knowledge as a bonus.

Starter job was interesting. Like a country vet shoulder deep, delivering a calf. In this case, different liquids and smells. Broke off that pesky coolant line connector right behind the idler pulley and had to find fix for that. See pictures attached for my solution. Was able to use the existing plastic bracket. Drilled it out and it worked perfectly with metal connector.

Thanks so much to those of you that took the time to provide advice! Rennlist is a great community and hope to pay it forward as able.

Cheers,
LR

De Jeeper

Nice.... and yea everyone breaks that nipple.

DBJoe996

Get this and solve that problem forever: