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Yep I'm in Seattle for now, curious to see how the 4wd helps.. last winter I couldn't get my m3 up the driveway lol
Sadly the front end only gets 16% of the torque with a brand new haldex.. And only gets power when the rear wheels are spinning , prolonged rear wheel spin will overheat the viscous coupler.
I got caught in a late snow storm this spring, car was fine while moving but once stopped,,, no-go.. I ended up turning back, going to a store and buying some nylon rope and made some red-neck tie chains.. Then made it home.
My BMW 330xi (06) was un-stoppable in anything less than 6" of snow. RIP
Oof, well I've somehow made it so far without a real awd vehicle.. however, the resistance to my urges to buy an old jimny or pajero grows weaker every day
Nice! Congrats on getting it in. Pelican Parts generally had good DIY write ups, I actually just bought their 101 projects book so I can just keep it in the garage with the car. Not perfect but very helpful.
im approaching the end of the UAOS repair/ upgrade. Got about 2 weeks until I’m signed up to take my C2 to PECLA for their owner driver experience. No weekends free between now and then though so it will be a nailbiter to get it done in time
Thanks! Looks like the back drooped down a little more, I'm happy with this for now- I might get some 10mm spacers and then keep the fitment this way until I'm ready for summer tires next season.
Water temps been running a bit cooler now, put a few hundred miles on it this weekend
Also, I installed the numeric shifter + cables and have a few problems with it...
1. 3rd and 4th gear have significantly more play than 1/2/5/6, I wonder if I have adjusted the reverse cable at the transmission wrong..
2. shifting to 5/6th, the bolt head that you use to secure the lever to the rest of the assembly, hits the shift boot surround and jiggles the whole console. I'm going to see if this can be flipped around
3. 3rd gear has always been sometimes hard to get into, i really have to slam it in to guarantee it doesn't get stuck. I was hoping the numeric would help with this but it still happens. I wonder if changing fluid would help with this?
4. getting the rubber grommet or the rubber tubing installed was a pain in the *** and I gave up. Bad idea... its ridiculously loud now. I tried spraying insulating foam into the gap, but it didn't do much. I'm going to try getting the rubber grommet reinstalled, cover the grommet->shifter cable section in rubber tubing, and covering everything up in dynamat. recouping costs lol
Last edited by cameronc56; 09-25-2023 at 01:57 AM.
If you have not changed the gear oil, you should definitely get it done. It certainly can't hurt. It's not exciting, and you can't see it, but it's a big important bit of maintenance. Change the fuel filter while you're at it
Gear oil is almost as hot a topic as motor oil ! Many will argue use the Porsche OEM fluid . Made by Shell to Porsche specs it works great . I also have a 99 C4 and I used Motul in the transmission and front differential . My car has 150,000 miles and shifts butter smooth .
Use spray lube or even dishwasher soap in that rubber shift cable grommet and it will slide right in. There should not be any contact or looseness with that cable so u got something adjusted poorly.
Gear oil is almost as hot a topic as motor oil ! Many will argue use the Porsche OEM fluid . Made by Shell to Porsche specs it works great . I also have a 99 C4 and I used Motul in the transmission and front differential . My car has 150,000 miles and shifts butter smooth .
The OEM fluid is Mobil Delvac. As an aside, it's the only fluid I use. I tried Motul and did not like the way the car shifted with it.
Nice -- no Porsche tax! I'll try this on my next transaxle oil change. FWIW the indy shop that did my engine install said they recommend 15K mile transaxle oil change intervals.
09-14-2023, 07:36 PM
