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You can download a user manual from the website and the software. It's pretty straightforward. You are basically buying the connector, unless things have changed the last few years.
'Short to B+' means a short circuit to the positive terminal of the battery irrespective of the key position in the ignition lock, I.e. Live at all times.
Your measuring 11V at sensors that should show 5V supply voltage does seem to coincide witht that!
Fuel smell can only mean injectors fire but fuel is not ignited which a yellow instead of blueish-white spark is indicative of too.
Fuel pressure is equal in both rails. No way that the injectors inject so much fuel on bank2 that the pressure drops in the rail in bank one as all injectors fire sequentially in the firing order which alternates between both banks. So if anything wrong with fuel flow from the pump pressure on both banks would be low.
I'd look into proper grounds and steady power supply to all coils, sensors and injectors (in that order)
Last edited by hardtailer; 08-03-2023 at 06:40 PM.
Cylinders 1-3 share a common ground wire (brown) to ground point 11. Check for continuity between one of the brown wires at the coil pack to the engine case to verify ground for the coil pack on that side of the engine.
'Short to B+' means a short circuit to the positive terminal of the battery irrespective of the key position in the ignition lock, I.e. Live at all times.
Your measuring 11V at sensors that should show 5V supply voltage does seem to coincide witht that!
I will measure again now that the ground point 11 has been cleaned up. Funny thing is that cam shaft sensor on bank 2 had exact same readings but was not throwing errors.
Originally Posted by hardtailer
Fuel smell can only mean injectors fire but fuel is not ignited which a yellow instead of blueish-white spark is indicative of too.
Fuel pressure is equal in both rails. No way that the injectors inject so much fuel on bank2 that the pressure drops in the rail in bank one as all injectors fire sequentially in the firing order which alternates between both banks. So if anything wrong with fuel flow from the pump pressure on both banks would be low.
That makes sense.
Originally Posted by hardtailer
I'd look into proper grounds and steady power supply to all coils, sensors and injectors (in that order)
Unfortunately, I will only be able to go get the durametric after the weekend. Verifying timing will need to wait a few days. I'll report back when I got it and checked the timing. Enjoy the weekend.
Unfortunately, I will only be able to go get the durametric after the weekend. Verifying timing will need to wait a few days. I'll report back when I got it and checked the timing. Enjoy the weekend.
if you suspect the timing, you can remove the cam plugs, rotate the engine to TDC and check for alignment.
On the 3.6 the two camshaft grooves should align.
if you suspect the timing, you can remove the cam plugs, rotate the engine to TDC and check for alignment.
On the 3.6 the two camshaft grooves should align.
meirschwartz has a point. Since you can’t keep the engine running the Durametric won’t be much help.
if you suspect the timing, you can remove the cam plugs, rotate the engine to TDC and check for alignment.
On the 3.6 the two camshaft grooves should align.
This^ And pull and check your oil filter for any debris that could yield more clues. You mention a new oil leak at the trans so it could be the bearing on it's way out causing the chain to jump and the seal to fail. The IMSB side drives the chain to bank 1 where your problem is so this makes sense. I'd try to figure it out without starting the engine again.
The durametric is pretty straight forward, but its probably slightly harder to use if you've never seen it on a running engine...
FWIW, if you have a bore scope go in through the throttle body and check the left intake for pools of oil.
Thats what I had after my AOS failed and hydro/cracked 2 cylinders on the left bank.
There is no expected life of a AOS they can fail at 100K or 10K or 1K.. Crap design..
Ok, got the durametric and used it to scan for codes first. This is what came back:
first durametric fault scan
So I cleared the codes and tried again, this time, only my good old friend P0343 came back. Which is probably why I do not get any readings from bank 1 when trying to see timing when running the engine (which seems like I should no longer do?)
Trying to measure cam timing.
So at this point I am kind of thinking to drop the engine. This would cost me time and a fresh set of oil and coolant. However it seems draining the oil for inspection should be high up my list of todo's anyway. So unless someone has a good reason why I should not drop it, that will be the plan for the coming days.
When dropped I plan to check the following, and do please chime in on what else to check while the engine is out
inspect the oil for any debris
plan to replace oil drain plug with a magnetic one
check timing physically
Should I check chain tensioners and guides? I assume the only way to check is to disassemble to the point where I can physically see them?
Since I have a brand new AOS, I might as well replace it
I have a smoke device to test for any vacuum leaks
remove all black tape of all electrical wires and inspect carefully for any damaged insulation
? Is there a way to test oil pump, water pump, scavenge pumps without removing them? Should I remove them for inspection?
? IMS and RMS where done 7 years ago, can these fail, how do I check they are still good?
thoroughly clean ground points, polish connectors, use conductive paste when re-attaching grounds.
Is there a way I can test the injectors?
What else should I do or avoid doing?
What reading should I do before starting this job? I consider myself to have medium mechanic skills.
I am planning to buy Jack Raby's M9x assembly dvd and book series. I have the workshop manuals, and the Bentley Publishers P911 service manual is on its way ( however still a month out).
A bad ground, common to All those items faulted in your first picture could also be the cause.
Perhaps someone with access to the wiring diagrams (in the Bentley manual) could answer tou that question.
Dropping oil pan nd inspecting oil filter would be my first step.
Last edited by hardtailer; 08-07-2023 at 06:47 PM.
I would try turning the motor over by hand to see if you feel any resistance caused by a valve touching a piston. Then I would pull the cam plugs for bank one, turn the engine to TDC and check to see if the slots ion the cams are in line with the split line between the head and the cam cover as Mierschwartz suggested. These can be performed without dropping the engine.
It still looks to me like it could be an electrical issue. From my review of the wiring diagram, check the black wire which is common to all six injectors. Check fro continuity between the black wire on the bank 1 injectors and the bank 2 injectors
Have you checked your exhaust flow out of bank 1, if you have a broken up catalyst internally blocking flow on that bank, the bank injectors will stop working and log a injector wiring fault along catalyst oxygen faults, be easy to remove bank one catalyst and run the engine.
08-03-2023, 05:54 PM
