Do I have everything I need for water pump replacement project?
The following users liked this post:
996-CAB (06-27-2023)
#17
You will also need distilled water to mix with the antifreeze. Do not use tap water. I used this in a recent water pump replacement: Joe Gibbs Racing Driven CSP Coolant System Protector (12oz Bottle) 50030 (lnengineering.com).
I also got the low temp, same as you, and it takes some getting used to since it slows down how fast the engine reaches operating temp, but you get used to it.
I also got the low temp, same as you, and it takes some getting used to since it slows down how fast the engine reaches operating temp, but you get used to it.
#19
You will also need distilled water to mix with the antifreeze. Do not use tap water. I used this in a recent water pump replacement: Joe Gibbs Racing Driven CSP Coolant System Protector (12oz Bottle) 50030 (lnengineering.com).
I also got the low temp, same as you, and it takes some getting used to since it slows down how fast the engine reaches operating temp, but you get used to it.
I also got the low temp, same as you, and it takes some getting used to since it slows down how fast the engine reaches operating temp, but you get used to it.
Per operating temp, I'm doing this now to prepare for the 100F+ temps in summer - so hopefully it'll do just that !
#20
#21
Jake had commented previously on using a copper gasket spray on the WP gasket. It was debated and i cant find the post but i used it based on his recommendation and had zero leaks. His reasoning was he had seen more than one leak after a rebuild lead to failure. Good enough for him, good enough for me.
Vacuum fill, while nice, isnt necessary. Just be cautious filling. Use multiple cycles of running to temp and filling. Keep an eye on the reservior.
Watch the TQ on the idler pulley bolts. One is much lower than the other. I misread it and snapped a bolt in half.
Good luck. Hope you have small hands as it made the job much easier.
Vacuum fill, while nice, isnt necessary. Just be cautious filling. Use multiple cycles of running to temp and filling. Keep an eye on the reservior.
Watch the TQ on the idler pulley bolts. One is much lower than the other. I misread it and snapped a bolt in half.
Good luck. Hope you have small hands as it made the job much easier.
The following users liked this post:
Ben8jam (06-29-2023)
#22
The upgraded lines DID NOT fit on my '99. The kink at the top of the flexible hose doesn't align with the coolant tank. When you compare the coolant tank to later years you'll see that the connection point for the hose is set further back into the engine bay (about 1-1.5 inches) hence. The earlier flexible hose is straight and does not have a kink.
I ended up upgrading both pipes and the newer coolant tank. The newer tank is slightly larger which makes it a massive pain in the *** to install.
#23
Do you have a '99?
The upgraded lines DID NOT fit on my '99. The kink at the top of the flexible hose doesn't align with the coolant tank. When you compare the coolant tank to later years you'll see that the connection point for the hose is set further back into the engine bay (about 1-1.5 inches) hence. The earlier flexible hose is straight and does not have a kink.
I ended up upgrading both pipes and the newer coolant tank. The newer tank is slightly larger which makes it a massive pain in the *** to install.
The upgraded lines DID NOT fit on my '99. The kink at the top of the flexible hose doesn't align with the coolant tank. When you compare the coolant tank to later years you'll see that the connection point for the hose is set further back into the engine bay (about 1-1.5 inches) hence. The earlier flexible hose is straight and does not have a kink.
I ended up upgrading both pipes and the newer coolant tank. The newer tank is slightly larger which makes it a massive pain in the *** to install.
Last edited by Ben8jam; 06-30-2023 at 02:44 AM.
#24
#25