sirhodjibob

Alright, was hoping to wait a bit, but I am going to go ahead and bulletproof the engine now. Normally I would prefer to DIY, but it sounds like for LN IMS Solution it makes more sense to have a shop do it for the warranty and prequalification steps...and then since the gearbox is out anyways, you might as well have them do a few other things. Fortunately, the shop I use (GTPeace) is excellent and charges very reasonable rates.

Here is the current working list. Let me know if you think I should add anything? Car is at 38k miles now.
-LN IMS solution
-Ultimate AOS
-rear main seal
-OE Water Pump & low temp thermostat
-coolant expansion tank
-every coolant hose in the engine bay
-Clutch (aftermarket or stick w/ OE?), throwout bearing
-clutch slave cylinder
-transmission mount
-transmission detent spring
-engine mounts
-fuel injectors
-oil fill tube

Worth it to go after timing chain guides and vario cam pads? Concerned more about age than mileage with these I suppose. Maybe inspect and replace if necessary.

Yogibara

I might have missed it further up but did you scope the cylinders through the sump to check for bore scoring? Before spending thousands of dollars on anything I'd check the overall health of the crankcase. If you have, then find a friend with a Durametric and check for over revs, cam deviations, etc. If you get a clean bill of health then spend away. I have no doubt this car will be fine but you never know. My 911 was as ugly as they come but the engine was strong so I'm restoring it. Otherwise I would have cut my losses.

LOL 996

I have not a scope but it is part of the LN Engineering IMS solution prequalification, so it will be done. I'm not too worried....it's a 3.4 that has been in a hot climate for 90% of its life.

Yogibara

So are you going to wait to buy the other stuff until after the inspection? How many miles on the car anyway?

sirhodjibob

38k

GC996

I would consider replacing the oil cooler as well.

Yogi's suggestion makes sense. Any shop can put on a IMS Solution or Retro kit. The question is whether you want the warranty hence qualification. Either way...

1. Test your oil first to see what it says. Porschetech3 recommends OilVue do to its comprehensive analysis. Good time to start a baseline.
2. Drop the sump to see what's sitting in there. Also check your oil filter.
3. Scope thru the sump to see how the bores look. Whether it's been a warm weather car or not, most previous owners didn't change their oil enough. Bad lubrication means the potential for bad bores.

If all checks out, spend money on the car. If it doesn't, then your next step will be prevention until you figure out a rebuild.

De Jeeper

If the vario cam numbers (deviations) r good dont mess with them.

C2-996

Excellent list- also as DeJeeper mentioned I’d wait and see what the variocam deviations are before doing the guides and pads. Also, the deviation readout is another pre qualification for LN IMS Retro or Solution- so kill 2 birds with one stone. I did my pads and tensioners around 60k for reference.

sirhodjibob

Question for the peanut gallery....do you all think rubber Clubsport Motor Mounts would still provide enough damping to not trigger the knock sensors? Definitely do not want to run poly or solid motor mounts, but would like to take a bit of slop out of the drivetrain if I can. I saw Jake Raby's dyno video of the impact of stiff mounts, and have seen the same thing in the BMW world as well.

GC996

Why not get yourself a set of Rein engine mounts and call it a day. You can also change your trans mount as well. FCP Euro has both.

plpete84

That's what I have on my car. I think they're the 993/964 RS mounts. I felt they were the happy medium between stock and stiff poly mounts which I did not want. Pretty happy with the decision and the car feels exactly as before power wise but a bit "tighter" if you will. I say go with OEM like GC996 suggested or these if you want something stiffer but I'd stay away from poly stuff, especially for the added NVH.

sirhodjibob

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah poly or solid is out...I figured these would probably be a safe step up since it is still an "OE" type mount.

sirhodjibob

First round of parts is on order. I will check for bore scoring when the sump is off. Might as well upgrade in the process. Shoutout at Rhonda@FVD for the discount.

FVD Brombacher motorsport oil pan kit
FVD Brombacher stainless steel brake lines
"Clubsport" rubber engine mounts
"Clubsport" transmission mounts
"Heavy Duty" rear deck lid shock (figure with the aero kit wing a stronger might not be a bad idea)
​​​​​​996 106 641 62 - water return hose
​​​​​​996 106 640 56 - coolant hose

sirhodjibob

Also ordered this from, most of it from Porsche of Silver Spring. I will say attempting to track down all the part number for the coolant hoses in these cars is an incredible exercise of patience and I presume there will be some trial and error here. First step is to replace the entire cooling system in the engine bay.

Cooling system:
996-106-147-56 - expansion tank
​​​​​​999-512-348-02 x 8 hose clamps
​​​​​​PAF-008-512 - hose clamp connector
​​​​​​996-106-136-54 - breather tube
​​​​​​999-512-554-00 x 5 hose clamps
​​​​​​999-512-552-01 x 4 hose clamps
​​​​​​996-106-850-05 - coolant hose (updated version)
996-106-243-54 - updated coolant hard pipe
999-512-551-01 x 4 - hose clamp
​​​​​​996-106-501-56 - coolant hose
​​​​​​996-106-502-56 - coolant hose
​​​​​​996-106-212-60 - coolant hose
996-106-233-51 - coolant hose
​​​​​​996-106-222-65 - coolant hose
​​​​​​999-512-655-09 - hose clamp
​​​​​​997-106-251-01 - breather tube
999-512-669-09 x 2 hose clamp
Rauch & Spiegel - Connection For Coolant Hose To Oil Separator
Pierburg water pump, gasket
BorgWarner 71 degree C thermostat, housing, gasket
​​​​​​900-378-013-01 x 5 water pump bolts
900-378-177-01 x 2 water pump bolts
​​​​​​900-378-030-01 x 4 thermostat housing bolts

SleepyCyclist

chart of coolant hoses:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17952801