Oil change and torque wrench
03-12-2004, 06:24 PM
#1
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Oil change and torque wrench
My 996 will need an oil change soon and I'd like to do it myself -- half to not pay the outrageous deal cost and half to have the satisfaction of doing the job myself. I've read all of the posts and DIY articles and everything seems straightforward enough. Two things:
1) I've read that the oil filter needs to be tightened with a torque wrench to 18 lbs when putting the new one back in. I don't have access to a torque wrench -- is there a way to tell its been tightened properly without this piece of equipment?
2) Any other tips for a guy who has never had the pleasure of changing oil before to make sure I don't have any royal screw-ups?
Thanks all.
1) I've read that the oil filter needs to be tightened with a torque wrench to 18 lbs when putting the new one back in. I don't have access to a torque wrench -- is there a way to tell its been tightened properly without this piece of equipment?
2) Any other tips for a guy who has never had the pleasure of changing oil before to make sure I don't have any royal screw-ups?
Thanks all.
03-12-2004, 06:58 PM
#2
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put a marker on the filter housing to line up with a non moving part near by. when installing it back, tighten snugly and align with marker. i don't think you can possbily be off than 1 revolution, so the marker point should be correct.
03-13-2004, 02:36 PM
#3
Drifting
You can tighten it by hand - 18 foot pounds is not much and it is not critical. I have seen mechanics do it by hand.
When you screw the cannister back on it will bottom out when it is tight. Making it tighter will do nothing to prevent leaks. Unlike a normal metal spin on filter with the rubber gasket at the base - the cannister has an O-ring in the thread area so cranking it on too tight does nothing. Jeff
When you screw the cannister back on it will bottom out when it is tight. Making it tighter will do nothing to prevent leaks. Unlike a normal metal spin on filter with the rubber gasket at the base - the cannister has an O-ring in the thread area so cranking it on too tight does nothing. Jeff
03-13-2004, 02:45 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Tighten until the cap is snug down then another 1/4 turn will be close. Tool pants is right most mechanics just hand tighten them. Mercedes have been using this style of filter for years and I just handtighten thoes and never had a problem
03-13-2004, 07:28 PM
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Do you really want to do your first oil change on a $65k car? I'd rec doing your first on your wife's, kid's or other car before performing this admittedly straightforeward DIY on your baby. Even better, do what I did for my first brake bleed and pad change. Ask to assist your p mechanic, rennlist member, or PCA track junckie (probably not p dealer-mechanic) if you can observe. Then ask him to assist you the next time.
03-13-2004, 08:09 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Originally posted by pedsurg
Do you really want to do your first oil change on a $65k car? I'd rec doing your first on your wife's, kid's or other car before performing this admittedly straightforeward DIY on your baby. Even better, do what I did for my first brake bleed and pad change. Ask to assist your p mechanic, rennlist member, or PCA track junckie (probably not p dealer-mechanic) if you can observe. Then ask him to assist you the next time.
Do you really want to do your first oil change on a $65k car? I'd rec doing your first on your wife's, kid's or other car before performing this admittedly straightforeward DIY on your baby. Even better, do what I did for my first brake bleed and pad change. Ask to assist your p mechanic, rennlist member, or PCA track junckie (probably not p dealer-mechanic) if you can observe. Then ask him to assist you the next time.
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