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Old 06-08-2020, 10:40 PM
  #61  
De Jeeper
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I dont really understand the pitfalls of rebuilding this motor. I get they damaged the bearing but thats it. U could check the flange area for stress cracks if u were worried that they pulled against the case. Otherwise the motor is intact. What am i missing? I get Jakes screening process and how pickey he is but for the rest of the crowd its seems low risk.

also not sure what the shops insurance would cover. My bet would be the r and r for the bearing which would include a tear down to swap the bearing but not a rebuild that most if us would feel is correct. Hell i bet it would be cheaoer the get a porsche short block and swap over the rest.
Old 06-09-2020, 05:32 AM
  #62  
Nick_L
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Originally Posted by shft22
Comment on the bearing seal. My car also has an 05 replacement engine with the large bearing, discovered the large bearing while replacing the clutch and RMS.

Following the recommendations here, I removed the real seal of the bearing. The way I did this was by very carefully inserting a dentist pick and pulling on the seal. When it came off it sounded like when you open a soda can, so it had pressure, either high or low but its internal pressure was different from the outside. The inside of the bearing was very dry, it had no oil and no grease whatsoever. Engine had around 45k miles at the time.
That's interesting. If it was 100% free from lubrication it's a manufacturing issue. You never seal a bearing without putting some lubrication in it...never. The normal fill is 15% of the void space, which would look like 'very little'. When the bearing is run it will press away some of the 15% so after some time it will be even less, but they don't need much.

Charles, will brinelling occure 100% of the time when you pull one of these bearings?
Old 06-09-2020, 08:03 AM
  #63  
Charles Navarro
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Originally Posted by Nick_L
That's interesting. If it was 100% free from lubrication it's a manufacturing issue. You never seal a bearing without putting some lubrication in it...never. The normal fill is 15% of the void space, which would look like 'very little'. When the bearing is run it will press away some of the 15% so after some time it will be even less, but they don't need much.
This is normal. Bearing will have no lube in it but if you pull the bearing, there will be a substantial amount of very dirty oil behind the bearing. Ask most any mechanic that has replaced an IMS bearing and they will confirm this. The grease seal lip gets hard and stops sealing, allowing the engine oil to wash the grease out. At that point, the seal impedes lubricant flow in and out of the bearing.

[QUOTE}Charles, will brinelling occure 100% of the time when you pull one of these bearings?[/QUOTE]

Once you load the inner race to pull the bearings, the force transferred through the ***** to the outer race can dent the races and *****. That's why it's standard operating practice to replace any bearing that has been pulled in this way. This isn't something I came up with on my own.
Old 06-09-2020, 08:40 AM
  #64  
Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
An extreme example of a trunk job would be a car that comes into the shop in pieces, with the engine already disassembled in boxes on a pallet, but sometimes in the trunk or in the interior, hence where the name came from. Not something I coined :-)
Of course. I have probably heard this term before. Never thought much about it.

I guess this is more of a frunk job. Still doesn't change my theory on Jake's vetting process. He checks the owner first...

Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 06-09-2020 at 03:03 PM.
Old 06-09-2020, 09:24 AM
  #65  
wildbilly32
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Originally Posted by Scott at Team Harco
Of course. I have probably heard this term before. Never though much about it.

I guess this is more of a frunk job. Still doesn't change my theory on Jake's vetting process. He checks the owner first...
WHEW! Good thing I got in before he starting the vetting process. I would have made it past a close intense scrutiny!

...but I totally understand why it is becoming necessary these days.
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Old 06-09-2020, 09:40 AM
  #66  
dgjks6
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Couple of newb questions. So we confirmed that he has the larger non serviceable bearing. What makes it non serviceable? I’ve never seen one up close. But the way it works from what I understand for a normal bearing is that the tools attaches to the stud coming through the inner race. You remove the clip holding the outer race/entire bearing and pull it out. Why would that not work for the larger bearing? It looks like from the larger IMS bearing pic above you can remove the clip and just pull the bearing out? I was under the impression that the hole in the case the IMS comes through is not big enough for the bearing to move out. But then how was he able to pull it out 3-4mm?

Anyone watch Home Built By Jeff? He tried to pull his IMS bearing out with a home made tool. Banged on it for a while and no luck. So he just put it back together and is still driving the car.

and is that sealant in the original pic between the case halves normal?


Old 06-09-2020, 09:48 AM
  #67  
Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by wildbilly32
WHEW! Good thing I got in before he starting the vetting process. I would have made it past a close intense scrutiny!

...but I totally understand why it is becoming necessary these days.
WHEW - made it by this much...


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Old 06-09-2020, 09:56 AM
  #68  
Noz1974
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I'm speculating here but would it be possible to pull the seal and do some sort of visual inspection, it may be the mechanic started the process and realised what was happening before he got any serious load on there , if you could sneak a look at the outer bearing race it may indicate whether it's damaged or not. I presume you would see the indentation in the bearing race with a scope or something similar, also turning the bearing and feeling for any notchiness in the feel maybe ?
Old 06-09-2020, 11:20 AM
  #69  
808Bill
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Originally Posted by dgjks6
Couple of newb questions. So we confirmed that he has the larger non serviceable bearing. What makes it non serviceable? I’ve never seen one up close. But the way it works from what I understand for a normal bearing is that the tools attaches to the stud coming through the inner race. You remove the clip holding the outer race/entire bearing and pull it out. Why would that not work for the larger bearing? It looks like from the larger IMS bearing pic above you can remove the clip and just pull the bearing out? I was under the impression that the hole in the case the IMS comes through is not big enough for the bearing to move out. But then how was he able to pull it out 3-4mm?

Anyone watch Home Built By Jeff? He tried to pull his IMS bearing out with a home made tool. Banged on it for a while and no luck. So he just put it back together and is still driving the car.

and is that sealant in the original pic between the case halves normal?
The bearing is larger than the bore of the case.
Old 06-09-2020, 11:31 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Noz1974
I'm speculating here but would it be possible to pull the seal and do some sort of visual inspection, it may be the mechanic started the process and realised what was happening before he got any serious load on there , if you could sneak a look at the outer bearing race it may indicate whether it's damaged or not. I presume you would see the indentation in the bearing race with a scope or something similar, also turning the bearing and feeling for any notchiness in the feel maybe ?
You might be able to spot a bad bearing, but you won't be able to confirm that it is OK.

These dents (if there) are probably visibly insignificant...like you might be able to see them if you removed the ***** and examined them under a magnifying glass. And you'll need the feel of a safe cracker to detect anything more than blatantly obvious roughness just by turning the bearing.
Bearings like this have very precise tolerances and turn at very high speed. There really is not way to confirm that damage has not been done.
Old 06-09-2020, 11:34 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Nick_L
Maybe my wheel bearing example was not that good. How about: I'm wiriting this on a macbook pro and it's generating roughly the same heat as the IMS bearing does. We are talking very small amounts of heat, it's a ball bearing, it's supposed to generate minimal friction forces.

If we take my laptop, strap the IMS shaft to the CPU as heat sink and then submerge it all into an oil bath. Then it would be rather overkill cooling. Same as the IMS bearing.

If the bearing is in a mode of failing, then yes, the heat goes up drastically. But, look at pictures of failed bearings, they are still not overheated.
I didn't mean to imply that this was just about heat. It's a factor, especially when the bearing starts to fail and runs a bit hotter.
It's probably more so about inadequate lubrication.
Old 06-09-2020, 12:16 PM
  #72  
dgjks6
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Originally Posted by 808Bill
The bearing is larger than the bore of the case.
OK Still trying to work this out. If he put the puller on the stud and the tube catcher thing through the hole that is smaller than the bearing it would be resting on the bearing, then how did he get the bearing to move? Doesn’t pulling on the stud bring the bearing into the tube catcher thing? If the bearing is bigger than the puller it won’t fit.

If I understand how a bearing puller works. Which I think I do since I have used a bunch of them in the past.

If he used a TON of force he could have pulled I guess the inner race in and destroyed the bearing. But the pic looks like the bearing is intact.

Does this make sense to anyone else or am I way off?

Or maybe he tried to pull it with a slide hammer and not the tool.

Old 06-09-2020, 02:07 PM
  #73  
tommelton
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Originally Posted by dgjks6
OK Still trying to work this out. If he put the puller on the stud and the tube catcher thing through the hole that is smaller than the bearing it would be resting on the bearing, then how did he get the bearing to move? Doesn’t pulling on the stud bring the bearing into the tube catcher thing? If the bearing is bigger than the puller it won’t fit.

If I understand how a bearing puller works. Which I think I do since I have used a bunch of them in the past.

If he used a TON of force he could have pulled I guess the inner race in and destroyed the bearing. But the pic looks like the bearing is intact.

Does this make sense to anyone else or am I way off?

Or maybe he tried to pull it with a slide hammer and not the tool.
There is room between the shaft and included bearing and the case (block). Attempting to pull the bearing from the shaft would then place the bearing against the case. The act of pulling the bearing via the stud, the stud which only contacts the bearing on the inner race, will destroy the bearing. So now you have a bearing, not seated fully in the IMShaft, that if pushed back into the shaft is now damaged.

The only way to now correct is to disassemble the case/block/engine to get to the IMS.

-Tom
Old 06-09-2020, 02:32 PM
  #74  
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Is it normal procedure when installing the "Solution" to notch the block first, before removing the old imsb ?
Old 06-09-2020, 02:44 PM
  #75  
Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by Optionman1
Is it normal procedure when installing the "Solution" to notch the block first, before removing the old imsb ?
It doesn't really matter. One advantage is that any debris created won't (shouldn't) contaminate the area of the IMS/ IMSB. On the other hand - if you can't get the bearing out, you've just wasted that time/ effort.


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