4Driver4

I shudder every time I see that. That would be a hard skip for me.

matvrix

I was rather miffed when that was suggested as an option. Quite glad that I'd asked for a couple of days to mull over this. Perhaps, seems like that's the route.

Prelude Guy

I think some in this thread might be a little hard on the mechanic. Just because some of us are interested enough in one specific car model and engine doesn't mean every german auto mechanic, who often needs to know a lot about several models and engines, should know.

A 996 with a newer replacement engine is still pretty rare. The 996 is definitely an outlier when it comes to its numerous defects and quirky facts about them.

Anyway, seems like an honest mistake. I''m fully aware of how difficult the auto repair business is. I'm just hoping they have insurance to compensate you!

808Bill

Oh HELL NO!

808Bill

I would not let this shop ever touch this engine again! They need to cover the cost but have the work done by someone that knows what they're doing!

Nick_L

No need to be hysterical and demand a rebuild. If the bearing checks out ok just push it back in and ask for 10k miles full engine insurance. After 10k miles do an inspection of the bearing and if it doesn't turn butter smooth any more, ask them to fix up their mess. Oil in the bearing is no problem, 5w40 works fine for lubrication. These bearings are not too weak, they died because of other things...mainly debris in the oil and running the engine too hot.

And I second what others have said about that EPS tool, NO WAY.

4Driver4

Oil in the bearing is no problem as long as it is allowed to flow in and out so that fresh, cooler oil gets in. A failing seal that allows very little transfer is a problem.

Nick_L

The friction losses from this bearing is less than 10w(worst case) with correct lubrication (5w40 engine oil or correct grease). It's pressed in to the IMS (which acts like a big heat sink) and it's externally sprayed with oil during operation. 'Yes' it will heat up inside. 'No' not to any significant degree. You can logically understand this by thinking about your wheel bearings. They take at least 10x the load and they hardly heat up when cooled by air.

TexSquirrel

I wouldn’t worry about the case notch.
If I were installing The IMS Solution, I’d probably notch before removing the IMSB just to make sure no debris gets inside.
The “compromised case” is not an issue.
If you installed The IMS Solution, you’d have a notch anyways.
The bearing now needs to be replaced.
That means the engine needs to come apart.
I suggest installing The IMS Solution.

Thanks for posting!
I’ve been considering advertising locally that I would install The IMS Solution.
Checking the engine number will be one of the first tasks, before any invasive qualification work!!

Noz1974

Yes I would remove the seal, what happens always is that oil gets inside the seal, this happens every time, so if you think you have a bearing with the seals still in place that may still be nicely packed with grease, your wrong!! The bearing will have oil inside and the ims shaft will be full of oil aswel! Now with the seal in place all it does is severely restrict the flow of oil into the bearing , so the small amount of oil inside the bearing slowly turns acidic and attacks the ***** of the bearing causing pitting in them so they don't run true in their bearing race, this is how failure starts and just gets worse! So if you have the car at this stage please remove the seal, then change your oil every 6 months or 5k miles and you will be all good. Once you have stripped one of these engines and removed and inspected the IMS , removed the seals , pulled the bearing seen the oil run out of the shaft you wouldn't doubt this!

wildbilly32

Is that the one where they use a giant "Hole saw" to "machine" away the block to pull the large bearing out? No...No...HELL NO!!

Nick_L

Noz1974:
I don't doubt your observations and I totally agree with you on frequent oil changes, for IMSB and other reasons.

For the IMS to fill up with oil it needs to pass thru the bearing(and both seals). This means oil can move between the IMS and rest of the engine, the bearing does not act like a check valve. Maybe not fast but there is still movement of oil.

Oil does not turn acid inside a bearing, it's mainly the blowby from the combustion which causes acid levels to rise in engine oil. So, if non-acid oil gets inside the bearing it will not turn acid inside there(you know this logically from gear box oil). IF acid oil gets inside and cause corrosion, you will see other traces inside the engine other than just a mangled bearing. The surface of other metals parts would show signs of corrosion also. From the pictures I've seen(please post link/picture if you have seen corrosion), the bearings looks to be free from corrosion.

I see only one reason you would like to remove the seals and that is if the bearing already have started to fail and is filling up the lubrication with debris, then you would need to flush(clean) the inside to slow the wear. But, in that case you would feel it when turning it by hand, it would not turn smooth anymore and you would change it instead.

Noz1974

Nick
Have you stripped one of these engines down ever? I promise you in most occasions on removal of the IMS, the shaft behind is full of oil honestly, my point was that don't think your running an ims bearing with the factory grease still inside , not at the mileages we not have with most 996. I think that having a bearing with lots of oil flowing through it to keep it cool and lubricate it is better than a bearing with restricted lubrication due to the seals being in place . The seals have one job to keep the grease inside , so once the grease has gone the seal has no purpose but , everyone makes their own decisions on their own car and this is just my opinion but backed up by a lot of other knowledgeable people , I have read on this forum recommending the same .

Nick_L

I fully believe you(I have no reason not to) when you say that there is oil in the IMS and it's bearing. I'm sorry if my english is not good enough to reflect that.

4Driver4

The problem is that the heavier grease is displaced by lighter viscosity oil that does not circulate freely in and out of the bearing; it can only seep through the seal. The shaft itself is basically a light gauge hollow tube, and I doubt it can absorb much heat from the bearing. You really need the sealed-in grease or circulating oil; semi-sealed oil is not adequate.

Wheel bearings heat up, but the knuckle they live in is heavy cast steel that is a far better heat sync than the IMS. Also, wheel bearing do not turn the kinds of RPM that the IMSB sees.