Rear Strut Removal Help
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Rear Strut Removal Help
Hi All,
Been doing a fair amount of looking and can't seem to figure out a resolution.
I bought a set of Öhlins R&T, while I wait for them to arrive I wanted to get the car up and remove one front and one rear strut assembly to inspect the parts Öhlins requires are reused and figure out what I wanted to replace so I could get them on order.
The front came out no problemo.
The rear is hanging me up. The lower strut mount bolt interferes with the lower control arm, the bolt comes out about 3/4 of the way before making contact with the arm, if I put some load on the suspension the geometry changes so I would be able to get the bolt out without the interference with the arm, but the bolt will not come out, I gave it plenty of persuasion with a hammer and punch, no luck.
I attempted to loosen the inboard mounting point bolt of the lower control arm and it is very, very tight. Before I broke it trying to remove I figured I would seek help here.
Pelicans write up mentions having to drift the bolt out, that's cool, but nothing of the interference I'm seeing. Watched bunch of youtube videos and the consensus is the bolt is a pain in the *** to get out but again, I don't see reference to the interference I'm seeing.
Question, when people have removed this bolt, doe it generally come out towards the front or rear of the car ? it would seem if the bolt was reversed and removed from the rear of the car I would not be having this issue.
Heres a picture of where I'm at for reference.
Appreciate any help I can get.
[img]blob:https://rennlist.com/12aa350a-4475-4686-b6a0-8d714e7ca89b[/img]
Been doing a fair amount of looking and can't seem to figure out a resolution.
I bought a set of Öhlins R&T, while I wait for them to arrive I wanted to get the car up and remove one front and one rear strut assembly to inspect the parts Öhlins requires are reused and figure out what I wanted to replace so I could get them on order.
The front came out no problemo.
The rear is hanging me up. The lower strut mount bolt interferes with the lower control arm, the bolt comes out about 3/4 of the way before making contact with the arm, if I put some load on the suspension the geometry changes so I would be able to get the bolt out without the interference with the arm, but the bolt will not come out, I gave it plenty of persuasion with a hammer and punch, no luck.
I attempted to loosen the inboard mounting point bolt of the lower control arm and it is very, very tight. Before I broke it trying to remove I figured I would seek help here.
Pelicans write up mentions having to drift the bolt out, that's cool, but nothing of the interference I'm seeing. Watched bunch of youtube videos and the consensus is the bolt is a pain in the *** to get out but again, I don't see reference to the interference I'm seeing.
Question, when people have removed this bolt, doe it generally come out towards the front or rear of the car ? it would seem if the bolt was reversed and removed from the rear of the car I would not be having this issue.
Heres a picture of where I'm at for reference.
Appreciate any help I can get.
[img]blob:https://rennlist.com/12aa350a-4475-4686-b6a0-8d714e7ca89b[/img]
#3
I remember it alljust falling out, you compress the springs?
c2 c4s? C4?
c2 c4s? C4?
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
Sorry about the misfire on the previous pic attach. Here is the offending bolt.
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
It’s a C2. The bolt is the bottom strut mount bolt.
have not compressed the springs.
i did remove the 3 top mount bots and this is the last bolt holding the strut assembly in.
thanks for the replies.
have not compressed the springs.
i did remove the 3 top mount bots and this is the last bolt holding the strut assembly in.
thanks for the replies.
#7
Rennlist Member
I think if you put a spring compressor on and jack the hub up a bit, you'll be able to clear it. Only reason for the spring compressor is to take tension off the bolt, but you may be able to tap it out with a drift. As I remember, that's how I did mine
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#8
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Another way (I have not tried) is to jack up the hub to compress the spring and use some heavy duty zip ties on the spring (many) to keep the spring compressed. Drop the hub back down, the spring is compressed and the pressure is off the lower bolt.
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
and thanks to all for responding. Really appreciate it.
#10
Drifting
This zip tie thing sounds dangerous to me. It'd be better to use the right tool for the job. I own a set of spring compressors, but you can likely "rent" spring compressors for free from a chain auto parts store.
#11
Rennlist Member
^^I agree. Any major auto parts store will have one you can rent and sometimes borrow. I've made it a point to get to know my local NAPA guys and they take good care of me. Same with the indy next to my warehouse. They've scratched my back and I've returned the favor over and over.
#13
Rennlist Member
#14
Race Car
Thread Starter
Cool, I have used a spring compressor a bunch of times, so no worries there.
I get the gist of compressing the spring to remove the pressure from the bolt and will go that method.
And thank you yelcab for the offer, unfortunately I'm across the country in MA but I really appreciate you offering.
I get the gist of compressing the spring to remove the pressure from the bolt and will go that method.
And thank you yelcab for the offer, unfortunately I'm across the country in MA but I really appreciate you offering.
#15
Three Wheelin'
You can buy really heavy stainless ones that can take the stress, but consider the lb per inch of the spring when you decide how many to use..
4x4 loops of safety wire is probably safer.. I've used heavy motorcycle straps in a pinch,, at the track with the 10 minute warning going off.. LOL
4x4 loops of safety wire is probably safer.. I've used heavy motorcycle straps in a pinch,, at the track with the 10 minute warning going off.. LOL