Build Thread: '99 C2 996 LS1 Swap
#271
Nordschleife Master
Yes, no pressure or low pressure would create an "open" ground. Put some nitrogen in the system to test for leak and it will allow the compressor to turn on. 50lbs should be enough
#272
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
System has pressure and freon, when running the compressor via ground to pin 62, air blows cold, no issues. There's continuity at pin 14 even with key off, so something isn't right. System was just charged less than 2 weeks ago.
#274
Nordschleife Master
Ok by your comment i thought it was empty.
I cant even find the pressure switch ony drawings.
I cant even find the pressure switch ony drawings.
#275
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pressure switch, if I'm not mistaken, is under the front hood, on passenger's side, under the cowl brace. I'll be out of town for a few days then I can circle back on this. Hoping it's an easy fix. Right now I'm wishing I just bit the bullet and bought a GT3....lol.
#276
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Need some advice on wheels and offsets.
I have a set of Fikse FM10 centers and access to new barrels and lips. I want to run the widest tire I can in the back and a decently wide tire up front. This car needs traction, badly, with all this torque from the LS1.
Something like a 305/35 out back and 245/40 up front. would like a ~26” diameter for the rear as a I could use taller gearing and a taller tire will help. 12” wide or more.
From my research, and available barrels, here’s what I come up with for the Fikse specs. Could I go wider and kore aggressive, especially in the rear? Could I run a 2” or even a 2.5” lip? I think going to a 12” wide rear wheel would open up more tire options.
Front: 18x9 +50 (1” lip / 8” barrel)
Rear: 18x11 +63 (1.5” lip / 9.5” barrel)
Thoughts? Bad idea? I don’t mind trimming. Jason has been an excellent resource and I want to maximize my contact patch so I used his e88 offsets as a starting point. Thanks!!
I have a set of Fikse FM10 centers and access to new barrels and lips. I want to run the widest tire I can in the back and a decently wide tire up front. This car needs traction, badly, with all this torque from the LS1.
Something like a 305/35 out back and 245/40 up front. would like a ~26” diameter for the rear as a I could use taller gearing and a taller tire will help. 12” wide or more.
From my research, and available barrels, here’s what I come up with for the Fikse specs. Could I go wider and kore aggressive, especially in the rear? Could I run a 2” or even a 2.5” lip? I think going to a 12” wide rear wheel would open up more tire options.
Front: 18x9 +50 (1” lip / 8” barrel)
Rear: 18x11 +63 (1.5” lip / 9.5” barrel)
Thoughts? Bad idea? I don’t mind trimming. Jason has been an excellent resource and I want to maximize my contact patch so I used his e88 offsets as a starting point. Thanks!!
#277
Three Wheelin'
Need some advice on wheels and offsets.
I have a set of Fikse FM10 centers and access to new barrels and lips. I want to run the widest tire I can in the back and a decently wide tire up front. This car needs traction, badly, with all this torque from the LS1.
Something like a 305/35 out back and 245/40 up front. would like a ~26” diameter for the rear as a I could use taller gearing and a taller tire will help. 12” wide or more.
From my research, and available barrels, here’s what I come up with for the Fikse specs. Could I go wider and kore aggressive, especially in the rear? Could I run a 2” or even a 2.5” lip? I think going to a 12” wide rear wheel would open up more tire options.
Front: 18x9 +50 (1” lip / 8” barrel)
Rear: 18x11 +63 (1.5” lip / 9.5” barrel)
Thoughts? Bad idea? I don’t mind trimming. Jason has been an excellent resource and I want to maximize my contact patch so I used his e88 offsets as a starting point. Thanks!!
I have a set of Fikse FM10 centers and access to new barrels and lips. I want to run the widest tire I can in the back and a decently wide tire up front. This car needs traction, badly, with all this torque from the LS1.
Something like a 305/35 out back and 245/40 up front. would like a ~26” diameter for the rear as a I could use taller gearing and a taller tire will help. 12” wide or more.
From my research, and available barrels, here’s what I come up with for the Fikse specs. Could I go wider and kore aggressive, especially in the rear? Could I run a 2” or even a 2.5” lip? I think going to a 12” wide rear wheel would open up more tire options.
Front: 18x9 +50 (1” lip / 8” barrel)
Rear: 18x11 +63 (1.5” lip / 9.5” barrel)
Thoughts? Bad idea? I don’t mind trimming. Jason has been an excellent resource and I want to maximize my contact patch so I used his e88 offsets as a starting point. Thanks!!
You should look at Hbdunn. He has 315 on 12s in the back on a narrow body. Not sure his offsets.
Last edited by c didy; 10-04-2023 at 02:35 AM.
#278
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I did see a 996 with 335/30R18 out back in person at The Shop in Seattle. It was a Turbo car, but might be able to squeeze this under my C2 with trimming and fender rolling.
After going back and forth with Phil at VR wheels, this is what I think I'm going with. If anyone sees an issue with this width and offset, please let me know! I plan to order the barrels and lips by next week.
18x9 +50 (1" Lip and 8" Barrel)
18x12 +50 (2.5" Lip and 9.5" Barrel)
I used this thread as a reference. These are 997 NB fitment specs, but I think it's very close to 996, correct me if I'm wrong!
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-fitments.html
Last edited by gtxracer; 10-12-2023 at 09:11 PM.
#279
Three Wheelin'
As I remember HB told me he was running 68 offset with a 10 mm spacer for Effective offset 58. He said there was minor rubbing at the liner. Three degrees camber.
#280
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ahh thank you! I don't mind trimming the liner. I think I'll be fine at ET 50 after seeing someone running ET45 Turbo wheels on a 996 C2. Just need to confirm the width isn't a problem, but I doubt it as seeing there's guys running more positive offset with a 12x18 and 315/30.
#281
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The other thing that is a concern is the PWM signal from snowflake is making the 996 AC compressor relay trigger on and off over and over. Eventually this relay will die, and being that its under my subwoofer box, I don't want to have to replace it often. I'm looking into a 12v PWM converter to 12v analog.
Last edited by gtxracer; 10-18-2023 at 10:11 PM.
#282
Three Wheelin'
Ahh thank you! I don't mind trimming the liner. I think I'll be fine at ET 50 after seeing someone running ET45 Turbo wheels on a 996 C2. Just need to confirm the width isn't a problem, but I doubt it as seeing there's guys running more positive offset with a 12x18 and 315/30.
I don't want to lead you astray but it looks like Apex recommends 65 to 68 ET for 12-in wheel and looking at my current setup I think they might be right. Not saying 50 won't work but it might be a stretch in more ways than one, especially if you're putting a big tire on it. Thought you might want to be aware. Let us know what you do.
Last edited by c didy; 10-18-2023 at 10:16 PM.
#283
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I don't want to lead you astray but it looks like Apex recommends 65 to 68 ET for 12-in wheel and looking at my current setup I think they might be right. Not saying 50 won't work but it might be a stretch in more ways than one, especially if you're putting a big tire on it. Thought you might want to be aware. Let us know what you do.
The link above from the 997 forum had a lot of good info and actual numbers with feedback. Unfortunately, there’s just a lot of Rennlisters regurgitating old/bad information and it’s misleading. Most people run a ET 63 due to availability and a slightly tucked look with less camber. I plan to increase camber anyway, so I went with ET50.
#284
Nordschleife Master
Still trying to figure this out - the pressure switch gives me 1.24v with ignition on. Ignition off, it jumps to 4v then slowly creeps down to 0. Unplugging the connector to the switch gives the same 1.24v from pin 14. Very odd.
The other thing that is a concern is the PWM signal from snowflake is making the 996 AC compressor relay trigger on and off over and over. Eventually this relay will die, and being that its under my subwoofer box, I don't want to have to replace it often. I'm looking into a 12v PWM converter to 12v analog.
The other thing that is a concern is the PWM signal from snowflake is making the 996 AC compressor relay trigger on and off over and over. Eventually this relay will die, and being that its under my subwoofer box, I don't want to have to replace it often. I'm looking into a 12v PWM converter to 12v analog.
None of this should be that hard. I wish i had some more time to spend on this. Maybe u could find an analog hvac controler and it will be easier to set up?
#285
Doesn't the terminator have provisions for a pwm signal and ac compressor output ? A simple pwm conversion will also work :diode 3k resistor 2uf capacitor to ground .Pick the signal off the resistor capacitor junction point .