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To change my water pump and thermostat!
No drips but I have developed some coolant crust on the outer edge of the pully and pump bolts...So much for a relaxing day off on Tuesday
Quick question, can I just drain the coolant from the motor or do I have to flush out the entire system? I have all new (two months old) coolant in there now.
To change my water pump and thermostat!
No drips but I have developed some coolant crust on the outer edge of the pully and pump bolts...So much for a relaxing day off on Tuesday
Quick question, can I just drain the coolant from the motor or do I have to flush out the entire system? I have all new (two months old) coolant in there now.
Guess what....after draining the system to change my leaking heater core...I went ahead and checked the water pump....not leaking..but noticeable play in the pulley and noisy bearings....I went ahead and removed the thermostat and water pump....waiting for the new ones to arrive to replace...by the way...Original water pump and thermostat....99 996
Feel like this is a project I want to tackle before winter or in spring. Dunno if mines been swapped, I am around 52k miles. Seems like a reasonably straight forward project.
I used the coolant drain plug to drain the engine coolant. Changed water pump and thermostat. Probably the hardest part was getting the big hose off the thermostat. Keep track of your water pump bolts, they are different lengths. I set the new water pump beside me and as I took out the water pump bolts I put them in the corresponding bolt hole on the new water pump. I refilled the coolant expansion tank, waited awhile to see if it would burp, then fired it up. Added coolant once it started to get warm and then put on the cap. Manually lifted the wire bail and took a drive. I left the wire bail up for several days for several drive cycles cool to hot to cool. Only had to add a minor bit of coolant and that was it.
There is a hard line (black pipe) that runs next to the thermostat cover. Look forward along the engine and there is a small 8mm bolt that holds the line in place. Removing that bolt so the hard line is movable is a trick to make removing/installing the thermostat way easier.
Feel like this is a project I want to tackle before winter or in spring. Dunno if mines been swapped, I am around 52k miles. Seems like a reasonably straight forward project.
Do it now or before you drive it next spring. Mine's just shy of 60K miles.
Be sure to check the idler pulleys for play and smoothness. I replaced two on my 996 while I had the engine out. Found dayco pulleys on eBay for about $33.00 @.
Be sure to check the idler pulleys for play and smoothness. I replaced two on my 996 while I had the engine out. Found dayco pulleys on eBay for about $33.00 @.
Thanks, I actually had the belt off last week to check everything (thus spotting the dried coolant one the water pump) else looked good. I feel the AC compressor may be next though. I get a slight vibration when the fans at 2 bar and above.
I too just got a UView but am yet to use it,I did a bunch of little jobs whilst I have the coolant drained - cap at the back of the engine + the T coolant piece that goes to the AOS.
I found a URO parts metal T piece that was half the price of the ratchet and spiegal? One and is identical to the original in design just all metal - awesome.
I used the coolant drain plug to drain the engine coolant. Changed water pump and thermostat. Probably the hardest part was getting the big hose off the thermostat. Keep track of your water pump bolts, they are different lengths. I set the new water pump beside me and as I took out the water pump bolts I put them in the corresponding bolt hole on the new water pump. I refilled the coolant expansion tank, waited awhile to see if it would burp, then fired it up. Added coolant once it started to get warm and then put on the cap. Manually lifted the wire bail and took a drive. I left the wire bail up for several days for several drive cycles cool to hot to cool. Only had to add a minor bit of coolant and that was it.
There is a hard line (black pipe) that runs next to the thermostat cover. Look forward along the engine and there is a small 8mm bolt that holds the line in place. Removing that bolt so the hard line is movable is a trick to make removing/installing the thermostat way easier.
Good information. It is actually fairly simple to keep track of the bolts. The two longer ones go in the bolt holes with the alignment rings. Removing some of the bolts holding the hard pipes is good advice.
Unfricken believable, I just opened my Pierburg water pump box and they sent me an EGR valve of what I have no idea.
Did you receive an EGR instead of the water pump?
The EGR is a gas recirculation valve, frequently used in turbo diesel for recirculating part of the exhaust gases to the intake to reduce the temperature in the chamber and with that, the polution
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