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Old Sep 3, 2019 | 07:44 PM
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Default Replacing CDR-23

So I'm pretty sure my amp is toasted but the speakers may be OK. I'm looking at this unit:

Pioneer SPH10BT Single-DIN in-Dash Mechless Smart Sync Receiver with Bluetooth

and curious about a few things:

* Are the standard speaker's impedance compatible. Looks like this radio likes 4 Ohms
* Seeing that this is a 4 channel unit, how have you wired it for all six speakers (if at all)

I know I will have to re-wire the car because I do not plan on adding an amp.
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Old Sep 4, 2019 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tom__w
So I'm pretty sure my amp is toasted but the speakers may be OK. I'm looking at this unit:

Pioneer SPH10BT Single-DIN in-Dash Mechless Smart Sync Receiver with Bluetooth

and curious about a few things:

* Are the standard speaker's impedance compatible. Looks like this radio likes 4 Ohms
* Seeing that this is a 4 channel unit, how have you wired it for all six speakers (if at all)

I know I will have to re-wire the car because I do not plan on adding an amp.
EDIT: Do you have the Bose system? If so, my comments below are for non-Bose, not sure how much it applies to Bose.

I don't think it's that easy to power the 6 speakers with a 4 channel radio. The speakers in the doors are woofers only and, from memory, I believe they are 2 ohms. The dash and rear speakers are full range and, from memory, I think they are 4 ohms. The door woofers are a very important part of sound quality because the dash/rear speakers put out very little bass because the "woofer" in those speakers is only 3 or 4 inches. I'm pretty sure it will screw up balance of the door woofers if you try to wire all 6 speakers to a 4 channel radio, and you will lose sound quality (bass) if you just drive the dash/rear speakers with 4-channels.

How do you know the amp is bad versus the head unit, or the connection to the head unit, or the power to the amp? I think you are better off keeping the existing factory 6-channel amp. If it really does turn out to be that you amp is bad, you can get an used OEM amp on eBay for around $60. You can still connect an aftermarket radio to the factory 6-channel amp.

Sound quality-wise, you will get the best bang for the buck by upgrading the dash/rear speakers first before either the radio or the amp. The factory door woofers are actually very good quality and don't need to be upgraded (stronger woofers are too strong for the door enclosure).
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Old Sep 4, 2019 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by peterp
EDIT: Do you have the Bose system? If so, my comments below are for non-Bose, not sure how much it applies to Bose.

I don't think it's that easy to power the 6 speakers with a 4 channel radio. The speakers in the doors are woofers only and, from memory, I believe they are 2 ohms. The dash and rear speakers are full range and, from memory, I think they are 4 ohms. The door woofers are a very important part of sound quality because the dash/rear speakers put out very little bass because the "woofer" in those speakers is only 3 or 4 inches. I'm pretty sure it will screw up balance of the door woofers if you try to wire all 6 speakers to a 4 channel radio, and you will lose sound quality (bass) if you just drive the dash/rear speakers with 4-channels.

How do you know the amp is bad versus the head unit, or the connection to the head unit, or the power to the amp? I think you are better off keeping the existing factory 6-channel amp. If it really does turn out to be that you amp is bad, you can get an used OEM amp on eBay for around $60. You can still connect an aftermarket radio to the factory 6-channel amp.

Sound quality-wise, you will get the best bang for the buck by upgrading the dash/rear speakers first before either the radio or the amp. The factory door woofers are actually very good quality and don't need to be upgraded (stronger woofers are too strong for the door enclosure).
Pretty sure it's the AMP as I get 2 thumps out of the left door speaker when opening the door. And only 2 or 3 speakers work.

This AMP and head unit have MOST connectors, so it's that proprietary fibre optic link from the head to the AMP. I'd be happy to install another stock AMP that uses RCA connectors from the head unit. Running those would be easier than running all new speaker wires.
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Old Sep 4, 2019 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by peterp
EDIT: Do you have the Bose system? If so, my comments below are for non-Bose, not sure how much it applies to Bose.

I don't think it's that easy to power the 6 speakers with a 4 channel radio. The speakers in the doors are woofers only and, from memory, I believe they are 2 ohms. The dash and rear speakers are full range and, from memory, I think they are 4 ohms. The door woofers are a very important part of sound quality because the dash/rear speakers put out very little bass because the "woofer" in those speakers is only 3 or 4 inches. I'm pretty sure it will screw up balance of the door woofers if you try to wire all 6 speakers to a 4 channel radio, and you will lose sound quality (bass) if you just drive the dash/rear speakers with 4-channels.

How do you know the amp is bad versus the head unit, or the connection to the head unit, or the power to the amp? I think you are better off keeping the existing factory 6-channel amp. If it really does turn out to be that you amp is bad, you can get an used OEM amp on eBay for around $60. You can still connect an aftermarket radio to the factory 6-channel amp.

Sound quality-wise, you will get the best bang for the buck by upgrading the dash/rear speakers first before either the radio or the amp. The factory door woofers are actually very good quality and don't need to be upgraded (stronger woofers are too strong for the door enclosure).
EDIT RESPONSE - I do not have a Bose system. Perhaps it is easier to just replace the whole thing with a new AMP. I am looking to get Bluetooth for the phone / etc
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Old Sep 4, 2019 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tom__w
Pretty sure it's the AMP as I get 2 thumps out of the left door speaker when opening the door. And only 2 or 3 speakers work.

This AMP and head unit have MOST connectors, so it's that proprietary fibre optic link from the head to the AMP. I'd be happy to install another stock AMP that uses RCA connectors from the head unit. Running those would be easier than running all new speaker wires.
Don't know much about the MOST system fortunately. This thread has some info (that is not very encouraging) -> https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...placement.html

It sounds like the Bose dash/rear speakers are 2 ohm and the woofers are 1 ohm, and the amp eq might be tailored to those Bose speakers also, so it's not easy to get an amp to replace and most amps will at least struggle with the 1 ohm woofers.

I've never heard of anyone putting in a 996.1 (non-Bose/MOST) amp in a Bose car (especially since the 996.1 may not handle the low-impedence Bose speakers), but if you are replacing all of the front and rear speakers anyway, you can put in 4 ohm speakers like the 996.1 had. For the 1 ohm Bose woofers, you could either replace them with 996.1 woofers (the OEM's aren't bad) or wire the Bose in series to create a 2 ohm load for the 996.1 amp (you would lose stereo on those woofers, but it's only low bass anyway, almost subwoofer-like, so it probably wouldn't hurt imaging much if at all). It might be a crazy idea to try to convert to a 996.1 amp, or it might not.
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Old Sep 4, 2019 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tom__w
EDIT RESPONSE - I do not have a Bose system. Perhaps it is easier to just replace the whole thing with a new AMP. I am looking to get Bluetooth for the phone / etc
If that's the case, and the amp is the problem, then should be easy and cheap to replace. I've seen threads where people have added bluetooth to the factory radio, but don't know too much about it.
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 02:39 AM
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Wire the 4 speakers as normal to the factory speakers, (Dash and rear)
Wire the door subs to the head units sub out in series, base is fairly non directional
and its recommended by a couple Porsche audio sources. if you use a bridgeable
amp on the sub channel you can get away with 2 to 4 ohm speakers..
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