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i had some rubbing on the fender liners - 5 minutes with a heat gun to punch them out where required and problem solved. for the outer rubbing just dial in some more camber (as much camber as possible is always the soln w these cars) and things should improve.
Great rim choice for our 996 narrow body cars. No spacers needed and stock 6GT3 wheels and tires work great.
I am lowered to 6GT3 Euro ride height on PSS10s and no rubbing. No track work but canyon carving. Never an issue.
Are your wheels painted or plastidip?
Powdercoated.
I agree 100%. Headed to the mountains now to carve some turns...
I'm wrestling with moving my PSS10s to this car, since I could easily dial in a little extra clearance to avoid this. But, dang, this suspension is tight!
Looks to me that the you need more than just a little fender edge rolling. Your tires are melting the plastic liners.
They were, yes. They were rubbing the front wheel well liner on suspension compression when turning. I removed the lower wheel well liner and gained clearance, so there is no longer any interference or rubbing.
i had some rubbing on the fender liners - 5 minutes with a heat gun to punch them out where required and problem solved. for the outer rubbing just dial in some more camber (as much camber as possible is always the soln w these cars) and things should improve.
You front wheel does look like it's set slightly too far forward? Maybe it's just the picture?
so, caster (wheel front/back in the wheel well) is not adjustable on these cars. what can happen if using gt3 control arms to push the bottoms of the wheel carrier out for more camber is that the point of attachment for the thrust arm gets pushed out as well, and this will cause the thrust arms (fixed length) to pull the wheel carrier forward (hence the need for those adjustable thrust arm bushings).
which reminds me to qualify my previous post - get more camber by pulling the strut tops in (vs pushing the bottoms out).
I have mk2 gt3 rims planning on installing PSS10s as well - have always read that there shouldn't be any issues with rubbing/interference.
You front wheel does look like it's set slightly too far forward? Maybe it's just the picture?
Also before rolling the Fender heat up the paint a bit with a heat gun - not too much though. This will stop the paint from potentially cracking
Originally Posted by The Radium King
so, caster (wheel front/back in the wheel well) is not adjustable on these cars. what can happen if using gt3 control arms to push the bottoms of the wheel carrier out for more camber is that the point of attachment for the thrust arm gets pushed out as well, and this will cause the thrust arms (fixed length) to pull the wheel carrier forward (hence the need for those adjustable thrust arm bushings).
which reminds me to qualify my previous post - get more camber by pulling the strut tops in (vs pushing the bottoms out).
Yes, the wheel does look like it is too far forward. I observed that too, but didn't understand the root cause. Luckily, the Radium King explained why! Sounds like I should look into a set of adjustable thrust arm bushings before I do anything else. Thanks! The people here are amazing!!
From a vendor ad:
Adjustable Caster Bushing Kit
Our Caster Adjuster allows you to tune this important setting that the factory left out. A must-have for cars that have extended lower control arms (GT3 control arms or eccentric monoballs) to correct for un-intended caster change that is caused by the extended arms.
I verified that I'm maxed out on camber adjustment at the top mounts, and there are lots of shims in the control arms... Still the original rubber bushings though, so it looks like adjustable camber bushing time...
yeah, so with all those shims you would need to compensate for caster. i think most (not all?) adjustable lower control arms have a two position thrust arm bushing (tab) where the second hole is in about the right place to correct caster on a fully-extended lca. perhaps your adjustable lca has that second hole but the track arm is in the centre hole?
yeah, so with all those shims you would need to compensate for caster. i think most (not all?) adjustable lower control arms have a two position thrust arm bushing (tab) where the second hole is in about the right place to correct caster on a fully-extended lca. perhaps your adjustable lca has that second hole but the track arm is in the centre hole?
I should pull that bolt and check, in case it is just hidden behind the arm...
To your point, there should be two holes:
Although Tarret recommends they be used on opposite sides from factory recommendations, so the can be used to fix caster:
I bought the rolling tool offered above and am going to start a new thread about the suspension.
I'm going to make sure the fenders are neatly rolled regardless, in addition to any other work I do to correct the caster.
Thank you all for the information, help, guidance, advice and education. This thread changed a bit from it's original narrow request, but I'm very glad that it did: I learned a ton in the process.
I bought the rolling tool offered above and am going to start a new thread about the suspension.
I'm going to make sure the fenders are neatly rolled regardless, in addition to any other work I do to correct the caster.
Thank you all for the information, help, guidance, advice and education. This thread changed a bit from it's original narrow request, but I'm very glad that it did: I learned a ton in the process.
Yes, completely agree! This kind of thread is RL at its best. FWIW I am running the GT3 arms set to -2 Camber ,and only have rubbing in extreme driveway entry type situations. I think my car is much lower than yours. Will post pictures when I get the car back this weekend.
Yes, completely agree! This kind of thread is RL at its best. FWIW I am running the GT3 arms set to -2 Camber ,and only have rubbing in extreme driveway entry type situations. I think my car is much lower than yours. Will post pictures when I get the car back this weekend.
Agree 100%.
Here is a side shot to get a sense of how low I am (X74):
As noted above, the front wheel is way forward in the wheel well!!
Questions on your setup: What shim combination are you using in your control arms to get that -2 camber? Which suspension? Tire width? Feel free to post in the new thread I started about this, I am enjoying the "detective work" and trying to figure this stuff out. We have so many knowledgable people here on Rennlist, collectively it is pretty amazing.
05-16-2019, 03:38 PM
