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OK - you didn't confirm your rear tire size yet. The chart you show here lists it as a 285/35R19. I will assume 295 was a mistake.
Based on the data you have from your calculator, it matches with what I come up with as well.
You are correct, the tire size calculator does not specify wheel width. This has to be sorted out first. Since we now know the fronts are 8", we would next focus on finding a suitably sized tire to come as close as possible to matching the diameter (circumference, etc.) as the tire you are staying with. You were able to find - at Tire Rack - that 245/40R19 is approved for rim widths between 8-9.5". You are at the low end, but still approved. This is why I was questioning you on verifying rim width. You can see that a 9" wheel would be closer to the center of the approved range.
I used my calculator to enter a few possible sizes in an attempt to match the diameter of your rear tire and still stay within the approval window for an 8" wide wheel. Not knowing for sure whether you have a 285 or a 295 rear, I created two scenarios. As you can see, the yellow highlights show a reasonably good match (same as you found). Again - this assumes you have a 285/35R19 on the rear. If it is a 295, the orange highlight is the best match I could come up with.
OK - you didn't confirm your rear tire size yet. The chart you show here lists it as a 285/35R19. I will assume 295 was a mistake.
Based on the data you have from your calculator, it matches with what I come up with as well.
You are correct, the tire size calculator does not specify wheel width. This has to be sorted out first. Since we now know the fronts are 8", we would next focus on finding a suitably sized tire to come as close as possible to matching the diameter (circumference, etc.) as the tire you are staying with. You were able to find - at Tire Rack - that 245/40R19 is approved for rim widths between 8-9.5". You are at the low end, but still approved. This is why I was questioning you on verifying rim width. You can see that a 9" wheel would be closer to the center of the approved range.
I used my calculator to enter a few possible sizes in an attempt to match the diameter of your rear tire and still stay within the approval window for an 8" wide wheel. Not knowing for sure whether you have a 285 or a 295 rear, I created two scenarios. As you can see, the yellow highlights show a reasonably good match (same as you found). Again - this assumes you have a 285/35R19 on the rear. If it is a 295, the orange highlight is the best match I could come up with.
Thanks so much for doing the work. I definitely have 285 / 35 / 19 in the back and 235 / 35 / 19 in the front:
All kidding aside, you all are a fantastic resource.
I would have never worried about the mismatched tires had it not had been for you guys. That would have cost me $1,300 just for the part alone (unless it's already gone and I don't know it yet).
I'll try to keep up my side and post whatever useful information I get and come across.
All kidding aside, you all are a fantastic resource.
I would have never worried about the mismatched tires had it not had been for you guys. That would have cost me $1,300 just for the part alone (unless it's already gone and I don't know it yet).
I'll try to keep up my side and post whatever useful information I get and come across.
All kidding aside, you all are a fantastic resource.
I would have never worried about the mismatched tires had it not had been for you guys. That would have cost me $1,300 just for the part alone (unless it's already gone and I don't know it yet).
I'll try to keep up my side and post whatever useful information I get and come across.
Tom
PS - And I'll try to keep wheel and tire straight
Hopefully you haven't hurt the viscous clutch yet, good thing the PSM light tipped you off as to something amiss.
Hopefully you haven't hurt the viscous clutch yet, good thing the PSM light tipped you off as to something amiss.
True Dat... Of course the previous owner may have just ignored the PSM light, like he ignored the outrageous lip on the edge of the rotors (replacing just the pads every time).
How would I know if the viscous coupling was bad? Would it begin to throw more PSM alerts?
True Dat... Of course the previous owner may have just ignored the PSM light, like he ignored the outrageous lip on the edge of the rotors (replacing just the pads every time).
How would I know if the viscous coupling was bad? Would it begin to throw more PSM alerts?
It would not throw any PSM faults. Of course an unusual noise would be an indication.
The test procedure is not all that hard, involves having 3 wheels kept from moving (brakes applied) and turning 1 front wheel hub (with wheel and brake caliper removed and brake pads blocked so they can't overextend)) and measuring the torque at slow rotation vs fast rotation by hand (torque wrench).. The procedure should be in the shop manual, or if you can't find it, I'll check back and see if I can post it for you.. (I'd have to find it also for the detailed torque specs (Alzheimer s))
It would not throw any PSM faults. Of course an unusual noise would be an indication.
The test procedure is not all that hard, involves having 3 wheels kept from moving (brakes applied) and turning 1 front wheel hub (with wheel and brake caliper removed and brake pads blocked so they can't overextend)) and measuring the torque at slow rotation vs fast rotation by hand (torque wrench).. The procedure should be in the shop manual, or if you can't find it, I'll check back and see if I can post it for you.. (I'd have to find it also for the detailed torque specs (Alzheimer s))
So I went with the 245 / 40 / 19 on a wheel with a 46 offset. And guess what ... they rub. SH*T!
So my other choice is to downsize the rears from 285 / 35 / 19 to a 285 / 30 / 19 (I need to confirm the wheel width is 9.5 to 10.5). This would give just over 1% difference in Revs per mile.
So I went with the 245 / 40 / 19 on a wheel with a 46 offset. And guess what ... they rub. SH*T!
So my other choice is to downsize the rears from 285 / 35 / 19 to a 285 / 30 / 19 (I need to confirm the wheel width is 9.5 to 10.5). This would give just over 1% difference in Revs per mile.
Is this within tolerance?
Where do they rub? If it's a diameter issue, you may want to raise ride-height. Does the car have stock suspension? Analyze the situation before taking a rash action or throwing more money at the problem.
Actually, looking back, 46 mm is a lower offset number than I typically see on these cars. I am more used to seeing numbers in the 50s. A lower number will put the rim outward more and now that you have a wider tire, it is probably rubbing the fender lip. I'll investigate the proper offset numbers, but it doesn't help the immediate problem. Any idea where those wheels came from?
You should take a rear wheel off and check its dimensions - including offset. You don't want to keep going in the wrong direction with each change you make.
The fronts should be either 50 or 52 mm offset. The extra 20 mm section width should not be a problem with the correct offset - UNLESS - the car has been lowered.
The rears should have an offset of 65 if they are 10" wide.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 03-29-2019 at 02:54 PM.
Where do they rub? If it's a diameter issue, you may want to raise ride-height. Does the car have stock suspension? Analyze the situation before taking a rash action or throwing more money at the problem.
Actually, looking back, 46 mm is a lower offset number than I typically see on these cars. I am more used to seeing numbers in the 50s. A lower number will put the rim outward more and now that you have a wider tire, it is probably rubbing the fender lip. I'll investigate the proper offset numbers, but it doesn't help the immediate problem. Any idea where those wheels came from?
You should take a rear wheel off and check its dimensions - including offset. You don't want to keep going in the wrong direction with each change you make.
The fronts should be either 50 or 52 mm offset. The extra 20 mm section width should not be a problem with the correct offset - UNLESS - the car has been lowered.
The rears should have an offset of 65 if they are 10" wide.
Unfortunately the previous owner put 19" wheels on. That along with the 48 offset is screwing everything up.
03-27-2019, 02:27 PM
