Wider is better. Congrats.

 

Just in time for Bike Week! Enjoy the ride.......

 

 

Really excited (did I say excited?,,,lol). I had an 06 Cayenne for a while and loved it.

I sent the check today and expect to get this to NJ in 2 weeks.

My first task is to go get a LN IMS Solution. I tend to drive cars to within an inch of death and I don't want the IMS to be the cause.

I honestly believe the 996 will become one of those classics that no one expected. I actually like the egg-eyes...go figure.

Be gentle on me as I ask dumb questions (winter tires / din radios / etc). I'll pull my weight when I can!
😁

 

So the new ride showed up today. Wish I had a Pro do the PPI but live and learn. It seems solid, just a few nagging issues, which if anyone can make suggestions, I would be appreciative:

* Rotors have a serious lip on all 4 corners. Pads look OK. Going to order ATE rotors for all 4 corners. They (ATE) seem to fairly well rated.
* I have the sport exhaust option. NADA when I turn it on. Light comes on but no change in tone. Can't tell if it's open all the time or closed. I'm thinking actuator or maybe fuse (if there is one).
* The plastic piece covering the battery area is lose. The plastic push pins are there but it looks like they don't hold. Is there a corresponding plastic piece that should insert into the square metal bracket?
* Damp under passenger rear seat. This is a cabriolet. Water drops on the passenger rear seat when I got it. It had rained for some time before delivery

Thanks from a 996 newbie.

 

Very nice. The issues are minor. New rotors and pads are a good thing.
Can't help with the exhaust question - but there should be a plastic (nylon?) piece that the battery lid fasteners engage with.
You stated it's a cab. Water will find its way in, in a few places. A lot of diligence will be needed to make it really water-tight.

Enjoy. We're all pulling for you. Keep your stick on the ice.

 

Or something else in a vice...

For those who watch AvE on YouTube (he is one funny man)

 

The PSE mufflers have solenoid valves in an exhaust bypass that are actuated by the switch on the dash, through vacuum lines. Default is open (louder). The valve should close to make it quieter when you push the button.

If you can feel a lip on the rotors replace them.

 

I've actually never felt such a pronounced lip on any car I ever owned, especially in the back. Worries me a bit for what else was neglected.

I was going to just replace the rotors because the pads are still meaty, but the rotors are wavy as well. So it's new pads and rotors.

My guess would be that it's the vacuum line that probably went hard and cracked. Looks like I am buying a shop manual.

No way I'm paying someone else to do all the work this thing is going to need.

 

Don't mess around with this. I would be most concerned about this of everything on your list. Could be the top itself or a window seal since you saw water on the seat which is higher up, but could be related to the rear water drains. Pretty easy to identify once you have knowledge of how the drains work.

Start by removing the rear speakers. Look in there and you'll see a water channel (I call it the waterfall.) Which leads to a basin where the water collects as water rolls off the conv. top. There is a hole in the bottom which drains down and out in front of the rear tires on each side via a tube. Either the the hole in the basin is partially blocked and if it rains hard enough and long enough it will over flow into the cabin and work its way to the electronics under the drivers seat. You don't want this to happen! Or, the drain outlet from that hole to the rear tire outlet is clogged. You have to remove the tires and peel back the fender well to expose the outlet. The outlet has a very flexible rubber flap to prevent dirt and grime from entering but still allows the water to flow out. If the car is parked where debris is allowed to fall on your car it can accumulate slowly and clog the system over time. Once again, fairly easy but time consuming, and it's all labor (no parts.) I check mine yearly.

Mine once had a piece of foam or piece of insulation come loose and fall into the basin. Luckily it didn't clog the hole and I never let my car sit out side for the most part. That said it only take one good rain and either side be clogged.

Follow up with me if you want more direction.

 

After looking at various posts, I wrote my own list of things to check. The leak was on the top because of the electronics in that area. I will look tomorrow.

Unfortunately most of the 'leak' posts I saw pointed to general areas without pictures of what exactly to check. Your speaker removal note helps significantly. Many thanks.

I'll also check the drain plugs, which I did see images of in another post.

So this is 996 ownership...

I'm sure it will be worth it ... and hopefully/strangely satisfying, knowing I fixed it myself.

I'll pm you if I get stuck (if you don't mind)

 

And a little levity here.

I am not a big wrencher but with an engineering degree, I can figure **** out. That being said....

My office, where the car was delivered to, is right next to a microbrewery. Yes, 50 feet away...ahhhh.

A friend of a friend having a beer, who also owns a 996, came over to look at the car. Thinking he wrenched, I said "feel that lip on the rotor". So he did. He then said to me "Is that only available on the 4S?"

Nice guy but OMG...

sigh

 

 

Thanks for the encouragement. I got it at a good price so even if I have to spend $5k to get it in good/great shape, I think it'll be a good day.

Another quickie question:
the suspension feels harsher than the other 996s I test drive. When I looked at the shocks in the front, I saw yellow.

Any thoughts on the bilstein shocks i saw?

 

Just replaced both my front struts myself. Once I got them off they were absolutely shot. $200 per strut for new Bilstein B6 heavy duty on Rock Auto's website. Replaced bellows, bearing assemblies, bump stops, and top plates for another $100 per side. Reused the springs. Replaced drop links as they were shot. Coffin and trailing control arms looked good, both bushing and ball joint ends. Steering ball joints which I separated to make the job easier could have been replaced as the boots were showing some slight cracks but still preformed fine. Easy enough to do them later.

All in $630 for parts, indy wanting $2,200.

Took 3 hours and just the tools in my garage. Shoot me a PM if you go at it and I can walk you thru it with a few key secrets to make things go smoother. No need for alignment the way I did it. No loosening the control arms and no spring compressor needed.

Front end is much tighter and solid feeling with less harshness, well worth it. Rock solid over speed bumps. Car has 73,000 miles.

Doing rears next and then rotors, pads and sensors next. Bought all the parts already.