ttt123

moburki

x3

DGI

Im in the same boat as you Nick

As much as I'd love more power, I realize that with the stock motor, we're very limited.

My approach is to take out as much slop from the suspension/drivetrain as possible (within certain budget limits) to start then go from there.

I've already installed a short shift kit and have some RSS goodies and a ROW M030 kit waiting to go on. I'll inspect and replace other bushings as needed

Since my car is new to me, i'm catching up on maintenance and replacing everything needed to make it a "reliable" hoon-mobile. I'm huge on dropping weight and adding precision so based on how the initial round of upgrades/maintenance goes, i'll see how extreme i'd like to go.

I look forward to following your progress!

808Bill

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ir-intake.html

Look what this guy did to reinvent the Porsche wheel with his K&N
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ir-intake.html

Imo000

The problem is that you are comparing worn out OE parts to new aftermarket parts. Ofcourse they will feel better since they are new. However, it would be interesting to see how they would do against new OE parts. I'm willing to guess the difference would not be as much.

As for that future light weight flywheel. You know that the stock weight flywheel is an important part of balancing the rotating assembly? You install a lighter one and it will be out of balance. Unless you have deep pockets, you don't want the rotating assembly to be out of balance. Besides balance, the extra weight of the stock unit makes the car more forgiving when getting it going from a stop. Lighter is not always better.

DBJoe996

Ask Jake how many engines he has seen with a lightweight flywheel and a busted crankshaft. Dual mass flywheel takes up the crank vibrations. I do not think a lightweight flywheel will gain you anything unless you balance the entire crank assembly and even then..... Just my 0.02 cents.....

ttt123

Wasn't trying to compare the two just stating my experience with what I did in regards to the thread.

Have read way to many opinions one way or the other on do's and don'ts. from superchargers to cold air intakes and the fly wheel stuff.. everybody thinks the other view is bad. FOR ME if you seen my build thread... its a car and I'm having fun. when something breaks or fails.. lesson learned and I'm perfectly ok with that. I've talked to plenty who have praised the lightweight flywheel as amazing and no fails with it. We shall see

Like stated above, I hear ya but I've also heard others say the oppisate and I have a back up motor for this car so I'm going to keep having fun

hope none of that came across like I'm trying to debate it or be sarcastic.. just one of those guys who views a toy car as ... a toy car and nothing more lol

Imo000

Since it's for fun then stop balancing your tires too. It will feel amazing too.

ttt123

... um.. ok. sorry I don't think the way you do. I thought my response was quite non debating but some people always want to have conflict.

Splitting Atoms

Having tracked my 99 C2 as a novice several times at Road Atlanta, this is what I recommend as far as mods to the car, making the assumption none of the mechanical components on your car are worn out:

1. Brakes. Once you are competent enough to get to 80% of the performance limit, your brakes need to work 100%, every time. You don't want any fade when you are entering a 90 degree turn at 60 mph. I am still running stock rotors and pads (Meyle rotors and Textar pads). They are relatively inexpensive, about $400 for a complete set. Replace all rotors and pads when they get near the minimum. I will need to upgrade to the Pagid pads soon. They are about $600/set. The brake fluid is very important. You can run the stock Porsche fluid at first, but you need to swap to Castrol SRF or another high temp fluid when you get to 80%. It's about $85 a quart, as I recall. It ain't cheap to track your car.

2. Protect the engine. Oil foaming and starvation will kill it. An X51 baffle in the sump and Driven XP9 oil should be the minimum. I installed the 2qt sump kit which comes with the X51 type baffle and the 997 oil return nozzles. Do not over fill the engine with oil. A little below the full line is best, especially if you have a deep sump installed.

3. Suspension. Mine was worn out, but it wasn't apparent on the street. When I took it on the track, it became obvious. I spent about $4500 getting all new arms and links installed, including RSS adjustable lower control arms ($$$) to give me more negative camber in the rear. It made a huge difference. I also purchased Ohlins coil-overs as a Christmas present to me! ($$$$) I haven't installed them yet, but I will before my next track day at the end of this month.

4. Seat. This wasn't an issue for me since my car was a former track car that came with Euro GT3 seats. You need some deep seats to keep your butt from sliding side to side.

5. Wheels and tires. I tracked my car with the stock 17 inch wheels and with 18 inch 996.1 GT3 wheels (Sport Design I think) 8.5" front and 10" rears. I forget which tires are on the 17 inch wheels, but they actually did pretty well. I ran Hankook V12 tires on the 18s and they also did well. You can count on replacing tires after a few track days. You will wear them out. I recently bought a set of 996.2 GT3 wheels and new Nitto tires, but I haven't run them yet. The bottom line is that any quality set of tires on any of the Porsche wheels will work for a novice, but you will want to upgrade at some point.

6. Cooling. I did buy the third radiator kit, but I haven't installed it yet. It was hot on my first track day (90+). We ran with Windows up and the AC on. My cooling system was completely stock and I only saw a slight increase in temp on the gauge. I will be a better (faster) driver this summer, so I will be installing the third radiator kit along with the 160 degree thermostat.

7. Under-drive pully. I am going to order the RSS pulley and belt being discussed on one of the other threads. Since the car stays above 4000 RPM for a half hour each session, this will help with longevity of the spinning components driven by the belt

I don't see the advantage of most of the bolt on engine or exhaust mods. These cars have approximately 300 hp stock, which is more than enough to get you in trouble. The only time I wish for more power is in the long straights. The 450 - 700 hp cars blow by me. 10, 20, or even 50 hp won't make a difference.

There are many folks on this tread with a lot more track experience than I have. These are just my thoughts after a few track days.

808Bill

Sounds like you've done your research and have a good back up plan...Enjoy your toy!

ttt123

thank you sir. no hate for others who don't agree. I understand everyone has there own opinion and that's cool. I'm 42, have had LOTS of toy cars and stopped treating them like gold about 5 yrs ago. Now as I get older.. I just want to smile with the thrills of life vs worrying over the small stuff.

If your budget, skills or reservations doesn't allow for you to be a little more careless... by all means DONT. light weight flywheel... if I snap a crank, i'll make a youtube video so everyone can laugh at my sorry tail lolol I'm ok with that lol

Triple Black

My favourite track mod - limited slip differential - makes the car so much fun on track
Best go fast mod - Ohlins R&T coilovers - so much more composed at high speed
Favourite street mod - custom catless exhaust - awesome sound
Also love the semi solid engine mounts and Function 1st shifter
ECU tune really changed the powerband
Haven't done any real engine mods unless you count the deep sump and low temp thermostat - for engine longevity
Next mod - motorsports AOS

808Bill

For the cost, was changing the powerband (with no added power) worth it and how?

Triple Black

The exhaust and ECU tune were done at the same time, with dyno before and after. Peak power and torque increased between 5 and 10%. Power is moved up the rev band a bit and comes on almost like a turbo at about 4K. Yea, it was worth it to me.