Scott at Team Harco

Yeah - and has numbers on it, too.

As an example: #222

wsrgklt

LOL that's fair. I certainly would've ignored the doomsayers when I was shopping for my 996.

To the OP I would say go ahead and ignore most of my previous post, except for two things:

1. While the IMS bearing is the thing everyone talks about, don't snooze on the other issues
2. Get a "look-inside-the-engine" PPI, even though it's going to cost ~3-4% of the purchase price

Mike Murphy

I’d rather know all the cautions like you posted, than go into a 996 blind. I have a 99, and bore scoring on the earlier cars is more rare than the later ones, so you got pretty unlucky.

Jrboulder

987.2 Caymans are just out of your budget...

Mib44

Guys, another question.

So I'm leaning towards 4S model because of looks. I've seen they're about $21-25K. But for about $25-27 you can get a 997 regular or S model.
What are your thoughts between 996 4S and 997 (regular or S)?

Splitting Atoms

If you are thinking about a 997.1, I suggest reading up on those. In summary, some of the 2005 model cars came with the small single row IMSB M96 engine. The late 2005 through 2008 came with the large (more robust) single row IMSB M97. The most common failure appears to be bore scoring, particularly on the 3.8 liter S engine. Overall, there are many design similarities to the 996.

Many people think the engine problems were solved with the 9A1 engine in the 997.2, but they seem to have longevity issues too. They are the first DFI (direct fuel injection) engines of this design and there are problems with carbon build-up on the intake valves since there is no fuel wash like there is with port injection.

Every machine has its Achilles Heel.

cds72911

They are different beasts. The C4S is essentially a 996 “turbo look” model. It is nice looking, and most of them have been well optioned (full leather, etc.). But, they’re still the same engine as the C2, and have the weight and complexity penalty of the front drivetrain. The 997S has a bigger engine and the 997 aesthetics. If you are going for turbo like looks, the C4S may be better, if you’re looking for the return to round headlights and better performance, the 997S would be my choice.

Road and Track thinks the 997 is the perfect first Porsche:
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...first-porsche/

“The C2S will give you most of the experience of the GT3 at a fraction of the price.”

Not sure I completely buy that, but I’m sure it is a fun car.

Mib44

Alright. After months of search and research I've bought it!
2002 C4S with 115k miles.

Now the questions... Since I plan doing some HPDE events I want to install 2qt deep sump with baffles and center radiator. Also a set of light rims and track tires. I have a few porsche mechanics in the area i live (Burbank, CA) and I want to shop around for prices... I wonder what's typical price range for oil pan baffle and center radiator installation should I expect? Anyone from here living in my area? Also, what brand of light rims for racing is good?

PS looks like I have brand new thermostat and water pump, bilstein adjustable coil overs (they make squeaking noise on low speed when going over speed bumps etc, is that normal?), evolution cold air intake.

Chris(MA)

Did you buy a low temp thermostat?

Just be aware tracking a 996 esp a high mileage has it's risks. Stuff like all your chain tensioner pads will be worn and brittle etc.

"Cold" air intakes on these cars add zero power FYI

az968gpw

Congratulations on finding the car you want.

Yes on the 2qt oil sump, 996 have issues with oil pick-up on tracks.

Don't spend money on rims, spend money on yourself. Track time, DE instruction is the best money spent to go fast. Lighter rims, ECU tunes, etc may make your car faster but won't make you faster. Learn to drive and any car you are in will be faster. Advice from a PCA DE Instructor.

Mib44

No, I didn't buy low temp thermostat, seller said its brand new, I'm yet to get to a mechanic and check. Same with cold air intake, it was just existing.

Mib44

thanks for the advice. I didn't mean to spend money on rims right away, but separate set of tires for track is something I want to have, since I'm planning using the car as a daily and a few times a year at HPDE or TT events. If you read the thread, I mentioned earlier, that I had a track prepped M3 that I just sold, so I have several years track experience.

So anyone knows what it could cost to install center radiator and oil sump?

Thank you!

jllphan

Congrats, I hope it treats you well. You’ll be hard pressed to find wheels significantly lighter than the BBS wheels currently on the car. Instead I’d look for oem hollow spokes to use for DD duties.

I have no insight on west coast installation costs, so I’m no help there.

No, you shouldn’t have any squeaking. It’s either something isn’t installed right with the suspension, bushings replaced are urethane instead of rubber, or some bushes need to be replaced.

Im curious, did you have a PPI prior to purchase? Did the car come with maintenance history beyond just the upgrades listed to the sell car?

Mike Murphy

Center radiator isn’t too bad. Oil pan by itself is also easy, but to make the car truly track worthy involves more than just the oil pan with baffles. The scavenger pumps need to be addressed. The best solution is a dry sump. Make sure you run proper oil, as oil can foam in this engine and will show up as oil pressure drops on long sweeping right handed turns.

TexSquirrel

I was able to piece together my own Center Radiator Kit using new and used parts.
It cost me $394.
I would also suggest replacing the water pump and a low temp thermostat.

I also installed the LN Engineering 2qt deep sump which solves oil issues if you use the correct oil.
All of these were easy installs.