First Porsche advice
03-01-2019, 06:04 PM
#46
Drifting
Which gen s4? I’ve had b6, b7 and b8. None of were remotely similar to any 911 I’ve driven. Completely different driving experiences. The s4 are all fun, but are heavy beasts, sporty sedans, albeit super fun to drive.
What are you looking for out of the ownership experience of a 911? The C4S looks the business and is often highly optioned, and those rear wide quarterpanels... yowsa. But it is heavy with the awd drivetrain, and has different handling as a result. The c2 is lighter and handles better (in my opinion), but it isn’t (quite) as nice to look at. The c4 doesn’t make sense to me since it has all of the downsides of a C4S with none of the upsides (ducking my head).
Whatever you decide, good luck. I don’t think there is another car out there that gives the bang for the buck you get from a 996.
What are you looking for out of the ownership experience of a 911? The C4S looks the business and is often highly optioned, and those rear wide quarterpanels... yowsa. But it is heavy with the awd drivetrain, and has different handling as a result. The c2 is lighter and handles better (in my opinion), but it isn’t (quite) as nice to look at. The c4 doesn’t make sense to me since it has all of the downsides of a C4S with none of the upsides (ducking my head).
Whatever you decide, good luck. I don’t think there is another car out there that gives the bang for the buck you get from a 996.
03-01-2019, 06:12 PM
#47
Rennlist Member
I bought a Boxster which is why the Miata has to go.
As for which 996 to get..... get the nicest one you can afford with the best maintenance history. I think Colin Chapman had it right and light is the way to go.....
As for which 996 to get..... get the nicest one you can afford with the best maintenance history. I think Colin Chapman had it right and light is the way to go.....
03-01-2019, 06:24 PM
#48
Intermediate
I have a B8 (2012) and agree--it's been super fun to drive! I've also done a few mods to it, which has been fun too.
Which gen s4? I’ve had b6, b7 and b8. None of were remotely similar to any 911 I’ve driven. Completely different driving experiences. The s4 are all fun, but are heavy beasts, sporty sedans, albeit super fun to drive.
What are you looking for out of the ownership experience of a 911? The C4S looks the business and is often highly optioned, and those rear wide quarterpanels... yowsa. But it is heavy with the awd drivetrain, and has different handling as a result. The c2 is lighter and handles better (in my opinion), but it isn’t (quite) as nice to look at. The c4 doesn’t make sense to me since it has all of the downsides of a C4S with none of the upsides (ducking my head).
Whatever you decide, good luck. I don’t think there is another car out there that gives the bang for the buck you get from a 996.
What are you looking for out of the ownership experience of a 911? The C4S looks the business and is often highly optioned, and those rear wide quarterpanels... yowsa. But it is heavy with the awd drivetrain, and has different handling as a result. The c2 is lighter and handles better (in my opinion), but it isn’t (quite) as nice to look at. The c4 doesn’t make sense to me since it has all of the downsides of a C4S with none of the upsides (ducking my head).
Whatever you decide, good luck. I don’t think there is another car out there that gives the bang for the buck you get from a 996.
03-02-2019, 12:48 AM
#49
Racer
I just went from a 2014 A4 6M car to an 04 C4S Cab 2 months ago. Totally different cars and driving experiences. The A4 feels big and numb compared to the 911. The steering and clutch has less feel and the AWD is very different. The 911 drives like a rear wheel car. The rear wheels will break free with some power application. The A4 was constant grip with more of a front wheel drive feel.
03-02-2019, 04:59 AM
#50
Advanced
Thread Starter
out of curiosity.. people are saying C4S has wider rear panels and bumper and that it looks sick. Is it possible to install those on regular C2 or they won't fit?
03-02-2019, 07:04 AM
#51
Race Director
Welcome.
They are great cars, you’ll enjoy it once you get one.
I don’t think you’ll find better bang for your buck in used sportscars than a 996.
There isn’t concensus on better or worse - lots of people on this forum like the early cars more than the later cars and vice versa.
Maintenance costs vary. If you buy one that has good records and was well maintained, you are likely to have lower expenses. Then again, they’re old cars, and time takes it’s toll on rubber and other items, so you never know.
A few often repeated pieces of advice here are: buy the nicest one you can find, try to get one with full maintenance records, and plan to spend another $5k on deferred maintenance (things like brakes, tires, suspension, fluids, filters) after buying (especially if a shop does the work - if you DIY, you’ll save tons).
Almost forgot the biggest one many people recommend - pay for a pre purchase inspection (PPI) prior to buying. It is money well spent on these cars.
I personally don’t shy away from 100k+ miles cars, but I don’t daily drive mine, and have several other options if one of my 996 is being worked on. And I do all of my own work other that tires and alignments, so that is a factor.
You should be able to get a decent car for your price range. There are many less expensive ones out there that may be fine, but the top end of your range should get you a good one (likely higher mileage if I had to guess).
I’d recommend doing a ton of reading here (starting with the FAQ section at the top of this forum) around the web and in books/magazines. Adrian Streather’s 996 Essential Companion is the best source in my mind - tons of great information.
Most of what you wonder has been hashed out and rehashed over and over. Friendly advice - do lots of reading before asking too many basic questions, it’ll save you from people giving you a hard time when you ask something that has been answered 1000 times and the answer is readily available with a quick google search. Not everyone is friendly about it.
ps. The early 996 was 3.4 liters (not 3.2) and the later was 3.6. I have one of each and prefer the 3.6 (mine is a 2002 MY).
They are great cars, you’ll enjoy it once you get one.
I don’t think you’ll find better bang for your buck in used sportscars than a 996.
There isn’t concensus on better or worse - lots of people on this forum like the early cars more than the later cars and vice versa.
Maintenance costs vary. If you buy one that has good records and was well maintained, you are likely to have lower expenses. Then again, they’re old cars, and time takes it’s toll on rubber and other items, so you never know.
A few often repeated pieces of advice here are: buy the nicest one you can find, try to get one with full maintenance records, and plan to spend another $5k on deferred maintenance (things like brakes, tires, suspension, fluids, filters) after buying (especially if a shop does the work - if you DIY, you’ll save tons).
Almost forgot the biggest one many people recommend - pay for a pre purchase inspection (PPI) prior to buying. It is money well spent on these cars.
I personally don’t shy away from 100k+ miles cars, but I don’t daily drive mine, and have several other options if one of my 996 is being worked on. And I do all of my own work other that tires and alignments, so that is a factor.
You should be able to get a decent car for your price range. There are many less expensive ones out there that may be fine, but the top end of your range should get you a good one (likely higher mileage if I had to guess).
I’d recommend doing a ton of reading here (starting with the FAQ section at the top of this forum) around the web and in books/magazines. Adrian Streather’s 996 Essential Companion is the best source in my mind - tons of great information.
Most of what you wonder has been hashed out and rehashed over and over. Friendly advice - do lots of reading before asking too many basic questions, it’ll save you from people giving you a hard time when you ask something that has been answered 1000 times and the answer is readily available with a quick google search. Not everyone is friendly about it.
ps. The early 996 was 3.4 liters (not 3.2) and the later was 3.6. I have one of each and prefer the 3.6 (mine is a 2002 MY).
03-02-2019, 08:51 AM
#52
Three Wheelin'
Rebuilt or Salvage titles are not the same as years ago.
Insurance companies will sometimes "total" a car that does not have any significant damage, some are.stolen recovery, missing interior you need to investigate...,
Best to see it before any repairs are done...If you are handy..there are bargains...
Insurance companies will sometimes "total" a car that does not have any significant damage, some are.stolen recovery, missing interior you need to investigate...,
Best to see it before any repairs are done...If you are handy..there are bargains...
03-02-2019, 10:42 AM
#53
Three Wheelin'
I wanted to join in on this thread since I have a growing interest to purchase my first Porsche and looking at the 996 as well. I've already test driven the C2, C4, and a C4S and they've all been enjoyable. I know it comes down to personal preference but trying to get a sense from the community of what would provide the most enjoyment, bang for the buck, and retain its value the best. It seems that a lot of people like the C4S (great handling) but others recommend the C2 (for its more delicate RWD porsche driving experience). I currently own an Audi S4--would the C4S be too similar to that (someone said it's not at all like the quattro but aren't they both 40:60 ratios)? Appreciate your patience for my noob questions. Just seeking advice to help in my research. thanks!
Addendum: I do love the C4S turbo body style--rear end looks awesome but I also really like the aero kit on the C2...
Addendum: I do love the C4S turbo body style--rear end looks awesome but I also really like the aero kit on the C2...
03-02-2019, 12:24 PM
#54
Intermediate
04-30-2019, 11:46 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
05-01-2019, 12:24 AM
#58
I am going to be the party pooper on this thread, as I was in your very position at the end of last summer. I found a 99 C2 coupe on Craigslist with 70k miles for $17k. I drove it 5 times before a ticking noise sent me to a shop and discovered bore scoring in two cylinders. Now I'm looking at a $15k-$20K rebuild (and consensus on this forum is that I'm foolish if I don't to the $20k build).
Everyone is worried about the IMS failures, but there are other failure modes that are just as catastrophic and might actually be more prevalent as these cars age. The respected shops like LN and Flat 6 Innovations say the have seen a big increase in bore scoring issues over the last year, and that might be because of how the Lokasil lining on the cylinders wears with age. Learn about cylinder bore scoring and also the "d chunk" problem where the cylinder walls crack. Getting a bore scope as part of the PPI will cost a few hundred dollars extra - I skipped it because it seems like a lot to spend on a car you don't own, but I regret that decision now.
If you ever plan to go to a track, even just for a HPDE, learn about the things mentioned above - how sustained hard corning can starve the engine of oil and cause connecting rods and main bearing to come apart and require the rebuild mentioned above. Also, learn about how the early cars without a center radiator have inadequate cooling, or how the stock thermostat activates at too high a temperature, either of which can cause the engine to overheat and require an engine rebuild.
Also, don't forget to check on the health of the water pump, whose impeller can start to shed plastic chunks. Because once those get into the engine, you might be in for (you guessed it) a $20k engine rebuild.
Jeez. I didn't intend it, but I might have just talked myself out of keeping this car. Oddly enough, I was shopping blue NA Miatas before I decided to "go for it" and treat myself to the 911 I've always wanted.
Everyone is worried about the IMS failures, but there are other failure modes that are just as catastrophic and might actually be more prevalent as these cars age. The respected shops like LN and Flat 6 Innovations say the have seen a big increase in bore scoring issues over the last year, and that might be because of how the Lokasil lining on the cylinders wears with age. Learn about cylinder bore scoring and also the "d chunk" problem where the cylinder walls crack. Getting a bore scope as part of the PPI will cost a few hundred dollars extra - I skipped it because it seems like a lot to spend on a car you don't own, but I regret that decision now.
If you ever plan to go to a track, even just for a HPDE, learn about the things mentioned above - how sustained hard corning can starve the engine of oil and cause connecting rods and main bearing to come apart and require the rebuild mentioned above. Also, learn about how the early cars without a center radiator have inadequate cooling, or how the stock thermostat activates at too high a temperature, either of which can cause the engine to overheat and require an engine rebuild.
Also, don't forget to check on the health of the water pump, whose impeller can start to shed plastic chunks. Because once those get into the engine, you might be in for (you guessed it) a $20k engine rebuild.
Jeez. I didn't intend it, but I might have just talked myself out of keeping this car. Oddly enough, I was shopping blue NA Miatas before I decided to "go for it" and treat myself to the 911 I've always wanted.
