Need some suspension advice
#1
Need some suspension advice
I've got a 04 C4S cabriolet. I just installed BC Coil overs and ordered Apex SM-10 wheels. This car is a weekend play toy and will maybe see track time a few times if i ever get around to trying it. I was thinking of doing some more suspension stuff but am not sure. I don't want to do anything that will compromise the street drive ability, but i will spend the money if its worth it to enhance it. I found some rear dog bones, rear toe links and front bump steer kit all from Torque solutions for $1100.00. I'm hoping for some opinions on if it would be noticeable or if i am throwing good money away and if so, a idea where to put it in this car.
#2
Sounds like a great start. I am not sure of the order, but this would be my thinking:
Goal—>Remove (or renew) as many of the old rubber bushing parts as possible
GT3 adjustable LCAs for the front (allows for track camber, get the solid bushings type)
Rear adjustable toe links are a must for sure
In my opinion, the rest is gravy...
Front bump steer kit: You would know if you need it, if it doesn’t bump steer, don’t do it.
Torque solution rear arms: I went with the 4 upper adjustable arms with solid bushings. Made a huge difference.
Dog Bones: I think the front is more critical than the rear, but others may chime in. I went with the solid fronts (GMG) and the (EPS) rears.
Adj Stab Bar Arms: I went with Tarett Front due to the lowering, but I don’t know how low you can get with a C4S, depends on the geometry
Stab Bar Bushings: I went with energy suspensions race material, could not feel the difference. Maybe just refreshed parts will do.
Goal—>Remove (or renew) as many of the old rubber bushing parts as possible
GT3 adjustable LCAs for the front (allows for track camber, get the solid bushings type)
Rear adjustable toe links are a must for sure
In my opinion, the rest is gravy...
Front bump steer kit: You would know if you need it, if it doesn’t bump steer, don’t do it.
Torque solution rear arms: I went with the 4 upper adjustable arms with solid bushings. Made a huge difference.
Dog Bones: I think the front is more critical than the rear, but others may chime in. I went with the solid fronts (GMG) and the (EPS) rears.
Adj Stab Bar Arms: I went with Tarett Front due to the lowering, but I don’t know how low you can get with a C4S, depends on the geometry
Stab Bar Bushings: I went with energy suspensions race material, could not feel the difference. Maybe just refreshed parts will do.
Last edited by Ratchet1025; 01-27-2019 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Spelling
#3
You should drive it as-is for a while and see if you feel like anything is missing. Presumably you got a quality full alignment including ride height and corner balance? If you go away from rubber bushings anywhere you will definitely impact streetability and NVH in general.
If you want to improve your driving, use the money to attend a track driving program.
Track use (even limited) also means you need to budget for more frequent fluid changes, brakes, and tires.
If you want to improve your driving, use the money to attend a track driving program.
Track use (even limited) also means you need to budget for more frequent fluid changes, brakes, and tires.
#4
You should drive it as-is for a while and see if you feel like anything is missing. Presumably you got a quality full alignment including ride height and corner balance? If you go away from rubber bushings anywhere you will definitely impact streetability and NVH in general.
If you want to improve your driving, use the money to attend a track driving program.
Track use (even limited) also means you need to budget for more frequent fluid changes, brakes, and tires.
If you want to improve your driving, use the money to attend a track driving program.
Track use (even limited) also means you need to budget for more frequent fluid changes, brakes, and tires.
#5
You should drive it as-is for a while and see if you feel like anything is missing. Presumably you got a quality full alignment including ride height and corner balance? If you go away from rubber bushings anywhere you will definitely impact streetability and NVH in general.
If you want to improve your driving, use the money to attend a track driving program.
Track use (even limited) also means you need to budget for more frequent fluid changes, brakes, and tires.
If you want to improve your driving, use the money to attend a track driving program.
Track use (even limited) also means you need to budget for more frequent fluid changes, brakes, and tires.
When the day comes that i join PCA and do a track event i will decide about driving lessons. But so far this is a street car. My biggest reason for changes is the car may only have 60k on the clock, but the parts have aged. I ordered rims and hate the wheel gap so coilovers were a must. The rest is just a domino effect. But whats the point in replacing with OE when you can upgrade!
#6
Don’t throw your money away. For occasional de’s the stock suspension is faster than you are. If you should decide to jump in the deep end, then some upgrades would be appropriate. One upgrade at a time though. And don’t forget safety upgrades.
#7
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#9
Think my plan at the moment is to install the rear upper dog bones and front and rear bump steer kits since its already on the UPS truck. Lower the car to about 25 inches all around and see how it goes. Apex wheels should arrive mid to late feb. Turbo decklid/spoiler should be in this time next week. Then join PCA citrus. See what happens on my first ever track event.
#10
I have just ordered the RoW coils for my C4S with the lowering european height (quite expensive for just coils), and I will upgrade the shocks with Bilstein B6 (curiosly, cheaper than oem B8)... and thats it.
I think that OEM setup is enough for a weekend use even with sporadic track visits.
I think that OEM setup is enough for a weekend use even with sporadic track visits.
#11
Maybe. There is a massive difference between the stock suspension and x74 or coilovers. You can go drive around a track on most any suspension, but if you want to maximize the experience and get better times, the upgrade can be worth it. There is a massive difference, even with spirited street driving (especially in twisty/curvy conditions).
#12
I had a rally car, seam welded, full cage, virtually straight exhaust, race seats and harnesses - it was almost unbearable on the street. I knew I had crossed the line!
In my opinion, with a 996, you can go pretty far without crossing that line. A set of good adjustable coilovers or factory lowering (i.e. x74) and stiffer swaybars is a reasonable compromise for me.