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125,000 mile "tune up"

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Old 02-08-2019, 01:56 PM
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cds72911
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Not sure if you priced them out, but I seem to recall the spark plugs tubes and o-rings being inexpensive when I replaced them last time. I'd just replace them, especially that one with the broken piece.
Old 02-08-2019, 02:00 PM
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rileyracing1
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If you read all the bore scoring , IMS , RMS hoopla by right a 996 should never make it anywhere near 125,000 miles !!
Old 02-08-2019, 02:20 PM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by cds72911
Not sure if you priced them out, but I seem to recall the spark plugs tubes and o-rings being inexpensive when I replaced them last time. I'd just replace them, especially that one with the broken piece.
I did scan past them at the Pelican site. And yes - they are quite inexpensive. They all seemed to be in good shape and were not brittle (except for the obvious). I'll definitely take another look and see if I want to get six, or just one. I'm getting anxious. With the exception of the drive home - I still haven't had any chance to enjoy this car. Sure, wrenching is a bit of a hobby - but it's a necessity to get to the end. And I think we all know what that is...
Old 02-08-2019, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rileyracing1
If you read all the bore scoring , IMS , RMS hoopla by right a 996 should never make it anywhere near 125,000 miles !!
I guess I've only got another 1650 to go, then. Better get down to the hardware store and get a "for sale by owner" sign.
Old 02-08-2019, 08:30 PM
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Put stuff back together. I made it better. I used fewer parts!

Figured out the bracket and the M6 nut. Help me with the M8 nut.



I was rather curious as to why the throttle body only had three bolts in it...
Found that photographic evidence to refresh my memory.


Old 02-11-2019, 02:39 PM
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No guesses on the M8 nut? I'll have to check the alternator that came out. Might be I didn't spin it back on the terminal. As for the bracket and the M6 nut, I found that the rubber mounted stud got broken off somewhere in the mix. Hopefully it's near the workbench where I messed with the tensioner (and not in with the pulleys).




Found a non-connected connector to the right and rearward from the right side engine mount. Fits in the rectangular opening in the picture below. Must be for the trailer lights.



I may have solved the mystery of the yellow coiled wire around the ignition switch cover. While I was wedged between the door sill, dash and seat, while replacing the ignition switch, I spotted more yellow wire that led to something behind the kick panel. Another key! I previously found a 996 part number that I did a search on, and it came up as a keyless entry key fob. The car came with an aftermarket (Viper) keyless entry device. I suspect the device transmits to the fob via the yellow wire. Seems kind of screwy, but I dare not mess with it too much until I figure out more about it.



Hooked up the battery and watched the rest of LeMans. I love a happy ending - "Porsche win LeMans".
Have to wait a few more days before I will be able to flush the cooling system. Want to be able to move the car outside. Won't be warm enough for that until Thursday.
Did some experimenting with the UView coolant fill device. Got it to hold about 25psi vacuum. Should work well when I go for real.

Tried to pour some gas in the fuel tank. Got overflow very quickly. Maybe after a pint. What the hell is going on? Also see there is a switch near the bottom of the fuse box (just below what is shown above). Is this related to the fuel door? Need to consult the owner's manual...

...OK it claims to be the manual control for the rear spoiler. Now I need to know what the switch is that looks to control the rear spoiler (middle switch to the left of the stereo).
Old 02-11-2019, 02:51 PM
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There was a remote spoiler switch available from Porsche. The one on the fuse box is a remote spoiler up/down switch.
Old 02-11-2019, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cds72911
There was a remote spoiler switch available from Porsche. The one on the fuse box is a remote spoiler up/down switch.
So the switch that looks to be for the spoiler (below the PMS - I mean PSM switch) probably is not for the spoiler? It looked clear that it was wired to something non-stock. You have to look closely, but there are individual wires and crimped connectors to that switch. Unlike the enclosed connectors used for the other switches. Might have to contact the seller to see what it is wired for - or experiment with it...


Switch does look to depict the rear spoiler.


Old 02-11-2019, 03:15 PM
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There is an oval dash switch for remote spoiler activation. That may be it.

Here is some more info from a quick search:
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...il-switch-mod/
Old 02-11-2019, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cds72911
There is an oval dash switch for remote spoiler activation. That may be it.

Here is some more info from a quick search:
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...il-switch-mod/
Registered...

I'll have to experiment. I clearly have that switch - the question left unanswered; what does it control? Would someone rewire the switch at the fuse box to have control in a more convenient location? Seems feasible.
Old 02-11-2019, 04:25 PM
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If it is that switch, it is used to manually raise and lower the spoiler in the rear decklid. Some people like to manually raise it at a different/lower speed than the automatic speed based raising.
Old 02-11-2019, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cds72911
If it is that switch, it is used to manually raise and lower the spoiler in the rear decklid. Some people like to manually raise it at a different/lower speed than the automatic speed based raising.
Yes - I understand it would not open until 75 mph is reached. Raising it at a lower speed does seem to be a nice idea.

I may be making this up - but I thought there was an earlier 911 that raised the spoiler at 40 mph. Then again, I may have it wrong - in that it lowered when going below 40 mph...
Seems likely I have this wrong. I vaguely recall the article: the author made a point that law enforcement (assuming they knew) would be able to tell the speed limit had been exceeded by the fact that the spoiler was raised. Makes sense that 75 mph was that speed, as well.

Confirmed: the M8 nut was from the alternator.
Old 02-11-2019, 07:44 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by turbogrill
Just did thermostat and pump as well. I remove cats and engine mounting bracket. Pump was very easy to remove then. Thermostat was still a pain, probably took 20min to get those top bolts out.
I removed three bolts holding the hard-pipe to the engine (third bolt was on sub-frame). It was easy to move this around and gain access to the bolts on the thermostat housing. You can see the two clips are free from the engine in one of the photos that you "quoted". It's often easier to keep taking parts off to finally get at the primary goal.

Then again - there's the hose clamp on the fuel filter...
Old 02-12-2019, 09:57 AM
  #104  
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Interested to see what method you use to degrease the engine. I've tried Simple Green and brake cleaner with a whole lot of scrubbing but I still cant get it as clean as I'd like.

Also, would you mind sharing the write up you used to flush the cooling system? I need to tackle this. Was planning on swapping out Pump, T-stat and over flow tank but may wait until the fall to do these items.
Old 02-12-2019, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DGI
Interested to see what method you use to degrease the engine. I've tried Simple Green and brake cleaner with a whole lot of scrubbing but I still cant get it as clean as I'd like.

Also, would you mind sharing the write up you used to flush the cooling system? I need to tackle this. Was planning on swapping out Pump, T-stat and over flow tank but may wait until the fall to do these items.
Maybe worth it’s own thread, but what do detailers do? Isn’t there some sort of steam cleaning? I’ve used an aerosol cleaner by Gunk (?) foaming engine cleaner on other vehicles in the past, it smells like it has some sort of petroleum product in it. I’ve never tried it on a porsche.


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